putting together longblock for boost, need help
#1
putting together longblock for boost, need help
Alright, so some background and my goals: I'm going on deployment in March, and I've decided that I'm going to use the money and the time away to have my car built. after looking around, I've decided to go with CBR /ModularTurbo. I've heard nothing but good things about them, and their kit looks top notch. the car will be going to them down in Mississippi to have their twin kit and a longblock installed, fuel setup, gauges, tuning, ect. my goals are a little lofty - 800+ whp on pump gas (91/93), no Meth, through an auto. Rob spec'd twin 6165's.
My dilemma now is this: I've never done an LS longblock before. I've done some searching, but I haven't been able to find concrete info on what will hold this kind of power. I AM on a budget (it feels wierd saying that, looking at how much money I'm dumping into this car), and trying to sort out what's needed and what isn't is getting me all kinds of frazzled. I don't want to spend money where I don't have to.
Right now I'm thinking forged iron block 408, ~8.5CR. I don't know what internals will hold, I'm at a complete loss as to what heads I should go with... Yeah. this is scary new territory for me. I was leaning towards a cathedral port heads as I already have a pristine fast 92 and ptm throttle body to put on it.
the goal is upwards of 800 whp, but I'll be running a boost controller and it won't be cranked up all the time. weekend grudge runs and the occasional track day, maybe. the goal is to have a retarded street car. I'm tired of getting beat by all the procharged C6's that seem to be running around.
so, what do y'all think? crank, rods, pistons, heads? help an fi newbie out. any sponsors, feel free to chime in, as well. I'm trying not to break the bank too bad on this thing.
My dilemma now is this: I've never done an LS longblock before. I've done some searching, but I haven't been able to find concrete info on what will hold this kind of power. I AM on a budget (it feels wierd saying that, looking at how much money I'm dumping into this car), and trying to sort out what's needed and what isn't is getting me all kinds of frazzled. I don't want to spend money where I don't have to.
Right now I'm thinking forged iron block 408, ~8.5CR. I don't know what internals will hold, I'm at a complete loss as to what heads I should go with... Yeah. this is scary new territory for me. I was leaning towards a cathedral port heads as I already have a pristine fast 92 and ptm throttle body to put on it.
the goal is upwards of 800 whp, but I'll be running a boost controller and it won't be cranked up all the time. weekend grudge runs and the occasional track day, maybe. the goal is to have a retarded street car. I'm tired of getting beat by all the procharged C6's that seem to be running around.
so, what do y'all think? crank, rods, pistons, heads? help an fi newbie out. any sponsors, feel free to chime in, as well. I'm trying not to break the bank too bad on this thing.
#5
thanks for the input so far guys.
I was spec'd 8.5 due to my requirement that the car run on pump gas with no Meth. if I can meet my power goals with more compression, chime in.
e85 isn't an option here. there are only like 3 pumps in the area.
as far as bottom end stuff... when do certain cranks let go?
good budget rod that will hold my intended power level? (same for pistons)
big bore heads that won't break the bank and like boost
I was spec'd 8.5 due to my requirement that the car run on pump gas with no Meth. if I can meet my power goals with more compression, chime in.
e85 isn't an option here. there are only like 3 pumps in the area.
as far as bottom end stuff... when do certain cranks let go?
good budget rod that will hold my intended power level? (same for pistons)
big bore heads that won't break the bank and like boost
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
AES 5.3 Forged Motor----- 2899 shortblock. pick up some 317 heads and your going to be fine at 800rwhp. Its been done on stock bottom ended ones.
Texas Speed 370 Iron block---great prices, great people. leaves more cylinder wall thickness than the 408.
If you have the coin, ERL 6 bolt. Worth every penny from those who use them, and based on what I have seen and heard from different drivers. You can also run more cubes and still have great strength.
I would not go with that compression ratio. Mine is 9:3 and I already wish it was higher.
Texas Speed 370 Iron block---great prices, great people. leaves more cylinder wall thickness than the 408.
If you have the coin, ERL 6 bolt. Worth every penny from those who use them, and based on what I have seen and heard from different drivers. You can also run more cubes and still have great strength.
I would not go with that compression ratio. Mine is 9:3 and I already wish it was higher.
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#8
good info. thank you.
tsp wanted to upgrade their package when I called, longblock was going to be over 9 grand. that doesn't really fit into the budget.
sounds like 9:1 CR would be a better choice for me, though.
anyone know if reputable builders are offering last heads?
tsp wanted to upgrade their package when I called, longblock was going to be over 9 grand. that doesn't really fit into the budget.
sounds like 9:1 CR would be a better choice for me, though.
anyone know if reputable builders are offering last heads?
#9
If it were me 364-370 with rods and pistons, arp hardware, stock 317s with valve springs and pushrods and a custom cam and be done with it
Obviously cheapest would be to keep stock cubes
Obviously cheapest would be to keep stock cubes
#10
sounds like everyone is saying smaller cubes... would I be able to meet my goals without Meth or e85?
please forgive me... I've been doing a lot of reading, but I'm still behind the curve on boosted ls's. I DID switch over from the dark side, after all
please forgive me... I've been doing a lot of reading, but I'm still behind the curve on boosted ls's. I DID switch over from the dark side, after all
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
Then you may want to call and talk with Brian @ AES and ask about there 5.3 package. You will make some serious power with that motor man. And they can put together the full longblock for you. Alot of people are starting to use there motors man. 5.3 builds are very popular in the forced induction section. do a search and youll find countless results. some even made it into the 8's.
here are the details and the link itself.
I've had many contact me for 5.3 boost shortblock, I listen and here we go.
Diamond piston 3.830" bore, -5cc inv. dome dish
Total Seal ring set
Scat I beam rods, 4340 forged, ARP bolts
Factory crankshaft polished and balanced
Clevite bearings, durabond cam bearings
5.3 iron block machined and assembled
$2599
Compression ratio using GM MLS gasket
w/ 60cc chamber 10:1
w/ 64cc chamber 9.6:1
w/ 66cc chamber 9.4:1
w/ 68cc chamber 9.2:1
w/ 70cc chamber 9:1
Upgrades,
Scat H beam rods +$100
Total Seal AP top ring +$100
ARP main studs +$188
Aluminum 5.3 block +$200
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ck-2599-a.html
here are the details and the link itself.
I've had many contact me for 5.3 boost shortblock, I listen and here we go.
Diamond piston 3.830" bore, -5cc inv. dome dish
Total Seal ring set
Scat I beam rods, 4340 forged, ARP bolts
Factory crankshaft polished and balanced
Clevite bearings, durabond cam bearings
5.3 iron block machined and assembled
$2599
Compression ratio using GM MLS gasket
w/ 60cc chamber 10:1
w/ 64cc chamber 9.6:1
w/ 66cc chamber 9.4:1
w/ 68cc chamber 9.2:1
w/ 70cc chamber 9:1
Upgrades,
Scat H beam rods +$100
Total Seal AP top ring +$100
ARP main studs +$188
Aluminum 5.3 block +$200
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ck-2599-a.html
#19
10 Second Club
iTrader: (30)
Why o-ringed? How much boost you plan on running? Seems to me if you o-ringed the block you might as well get 3/4" thick deck heads if you'll run 25-30lbs +. But then again I haven't seen to many stock heads lifting on the 5.3s just the bent rods and ringlands first and those are on the stock internals.