Snowball of a build - Turbo LSx Rx7
01-22-2015, 01:23 PM
#221
I plan on putting the return in the top of the water pump right next to where the cable attaches to the TB. You can see in the pic, that the steam port has always returned into the coolant pipe coming from the top of the Radiator. Its the black braided line "T"'d into the black coolant hardline in the pic. Thanks for the compliments on the front shocks. They were a bit more work then i thought, but really were not that bad. Just took some time is all. I want to get the motor in the car so i can get it on the ground and see how it all works out for ride height and spring height and all that good stuff. I cant wait to see the effect they have on the car and how it leaves. Hopefully it will have a better 60ft and leave quite a bit harder. Was your FC a solid axle or an IRS car?
I'll agree with FF a swirl tank is a solid idea if your going to un plug the rears. Howe has a decent little tank for $70. That's one I run. I too have my vent return plumbed into the top of the water pump. Coupled with no thermostat, my system runs smooth with a crappy ebay fan and no shroud.
01-22-2015, 01:27 PM
#222
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Can you guys post up a pic of your swirl tank and how you have it all ran and plumbed. I am curious of location and if ithas to be the highest point and all that good stuff. i am running out of room under my hood.
01-22-2015, 01:43 PM
#223
I don't know if u can really see it but it's the wrinkle black cylinder with the radiator cap on it closest to the passenger headlight. The steam vents dump into it. One line goes back into the top of the water pump. At the top of the swirl tank (like a radiator) there is a port next to the cap that goes to the overflow. With this setup correctly and from the get go you should have a sealed radiator (no cap) however I learned all this afterwards so I just ran a higher pressure cap on the radiator 23-24lb as apposed to the 16-18lb on the swirl tank. This "swirl tank" should be the new fill point in your coolant system. This is how I did it anyways.
Last edited by oscs; 01-22-2015 at 01:48 PM.
01-22-2015, 01:53 PM
#224
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Ok, call me crazy, and being that i know nothing about this and have never looked into it before. But isnt a radiator with an overflow canister something like a large swirlpot in itself? Any air thats in the system would get pushed to the radiator where it would find its way to the top, then out the overflow port and down the line to the overflow container? So the air is still leaving the system via the radiator and the line out by the coolant cap.??
01-22-2015, 02:01 PM
#225
Ok, call me crazy, and being that i know nothing about this and have never looked into it before. But isnt a radiator with an overflow canister something like a large swirlpot in itself? Any air thats in the system would get pushed to the radiator where it would find its way to the top, then out the overflow port and down the line to the overflow container? So the air is still leaving the system via the radiator and the line out by the coolant cap.??
Great thread on it here...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/
01-22-2015, 02:23 PM
#226
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I guess i just dont understand the purpose. If the "steam tube" goes to the radiator, its going to take any steam it has with it to the rad. From there, the radiator is not giong to put that steam back into the system. Its going to either stay at the top of the radiator, or go out the port to the overflow bottle. I am not seeing how a swirl pot will help remove the steam or keep it from going back into the block.
Dont get me wrong, i am sure there is something here that i am missing. But the steam shoudl go to the radiator just as easily as it would go to the swirl pot.
How does a stock LS car... say a camaro.... have its routing done. All four corners then they come together into one up by the TB. Where does that line hook to in a stock LS1 application?
Dont get me wrong, i am sure there is something here that i am missing. But the steam shoudl go to the radiator just as easily as it would go to the swirl pot.
How does a stock LS car... say a camaro.... have its routing done. All four corners then they come together into one up by the TB. Where does that line hook to in a stock LS1 application?
01-22-2015, 03:06 PM
#227
I guess i just dont understand the purpose. If the "steam tube" goes to the radiator, its going to take any steam it has with it to the rad. From there, the radiator is not giong to put that steam back into the system. Its going to either stay at the top of the radiator, or go out the port to the overflow bottle. I am not seeing how a swirl pot will help remove the steam or keep it from going back into the block.
Dont get me wrong, i am sure there is something here that i am missing. But the steam shoudl go to the radiator just as easily as it would go to the swirl pot.
How does a stock LS car... say a camaro.... have its routing done. All four corners then they come together into one up by the TB. Where does that line hook to in a stock LS1 application?
Dont get me wrong, i am sure there is something here that i am missing. But the steam shoudl go to the radiator just as easily as it would go to the swirl pot.
How does a stock LS car... say a camaro.... have its routing done. All four corners then they come together into one up by the TB. Where does that line hook to in a stock LS1 application?
All OEM LS applications use a surge tank. (if not all new OEM cars?) Mainly due to low mount radiators with horizontal flow tanks I'd guess.
01-22-2015, 03:14 PM
#228
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I will look into this some more. To be completely honest though, i see me still opening up the rear ports and going into the top of the waterpump. I could go into one of the spots on the pump that goes to the heater core. I am not running heat, and just have those two ports looped/capped off.
If i did just go to the water pump, would it be better to tap the top like i stated before, or go to one of these heater core ports on the side?
If i did just go to the water pump, would it be better to tap the top like i stated before, or go to one of these heater core ports on the side?
01-22-2015, 03:31 PM
#229
The water pump can’t separate the air and allow it to exit the system through the overflow. I sure you’ll be fine, not something I’d lose sleep over. I’d go with tallest point like you were thinking. If you’re not doing it “right”… won’t make much of a difference either way. I must say my surge tank cluttered up my engine bay and is generally annoying. There is no great place for it. Mounted off a strut tower brace maybe…
01-24-2015, 10:40 AM
#230
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Well, on a slightly differnet note, the shocks for the rear showed up yesterday. With them set to full stiff, they are supposed to be "125%" stiffer then the stock suspension which is what i am running out back. Hopefully these and the springs will help stiffin the rear up enough. I am hoping to find some coilover sleeves at a local swap meet tommorrow. If so, i can get these assembled and on the car.
01-24-2015, 10:49 AM
#231
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Well, on a slightly differnet note, the shocks for the rear showed up yesterday. With them set to full stiff, they are supposed to be "125%" stiffer then the stock suspension which is what i am running out back. Hopefully these and the springs will help stiffin the rear up enough. I am hoping to find some coilover sleeves at a local swap meet tommorrow. If so, i can get these assembled and on the car.
Andrew
01-24-2015, 10:52 AM
#232
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I have some 12" 200# 2.5" ID springs that i plan on using. I am pretty sure i can do as you say and use them without any sleeve. I would like the sleeve for some height adjustment though. Incase i need to a little more tire clearance or if i have some room to drop it down if i dont run a race setup and put a street tire on it at some point.
01-25-2015, 05:01 PM
#233
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I found some coil over sleeves at a local swap meet this morning for $20 so i grabbed those up and got the new shocks, springs, and coilover setup on the rear of the car. Here are a couple pics:
02-02-2015, 07:50 PM
#235
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I started working on the steam port lines. I think they are turning out ok. I am unsure how i am going to do the last one. Hopefully can get it figured out and it will all come together and look decent.
02-02-2015, 08:19 PM
#236
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Those steam lines look good, but I am afraid you might have created other problems by having those loops there. With your radiator being so low, those loops in the steam lines are now the high point of the cooling system. I think steam will collect in those loops and you'll never be able to "burp" the system.
Andrew
Andrew
02-02-2015, 08:41 PM
#237
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I thought of that as well. However i then thought of the KUP setups that people run. Those loops are no higher then that setup or ones like it where they merge on top of the intake.
Are the steam ports pressurized? I mean obviously they have to be since they are in a pressurized system. Being so, wouldnt the water pump move fluid throughout them?
Also, i usually use one of the funnels that goes on the rad cap and locks into place. Thus you can fill the funnel higher then the motor which allows it to be the highest point in the system to bleed it. Now i could be wrong, but i would think that these loops would not cause a problem?
Are the steam ports pressurized? I mean obviously they have to be since they are in a pressurized system. Being so, wouldnt the water pump move fluid throughout them?
Also, i usually use one of the funnels that goes on the rad cap and locks into place. Thus you can fill the funnel higher then the motor which allows it to be the highest point in the system to bleed it. Now i could be wrong, but i would think that these loops would not cause a problem?
02-02-2015, 09:02 PM
#239
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Andrew
02-05-2015, 07:43 AM
#240
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Well, hopefully it all works out because i got the steam ports all wrapped up last night. Still on the fence if i like the looks or not, but i think once everything is in the car it will all turn out ok.
