SS-TEN

Seems to me that there would be enough water pressure moving throughout the system to push air/steam through those lines. Good work!

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

So this arrived today.





I will get to installing it in a couple weeks. As of now, i think i am going to try and get the motor in tonight. After that, i think i am giong to modify the exhaust. I am going to add a 3" V band to make it in sections so its a little easier to handle when putting it on and off the car. Also, the Thrush chambered mufflers are coming off and i have some cheap straight through mufflers that will be going on. Hopefully this will help me relieve some of the back pressure that was in the system.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

What's the onboard air system for?

Andrew

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I'm going to say wastegate control

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Correct, its for wastegate control. I figured it would work nicely with the MS3-Pro and its traction control capabilities.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Why not co2?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Regardless of form or function... I think the steam vents look damn cool! Always liked the look of nice hard line plumbing.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I wont have to worry about filling bottles or running out. I know a bottle would last a long time, but just one less hassle. Plus, I can air up some slicks if i need to after a run ;-)


Thanks for the compliment. I had my nitrous lines hard lined when it was on the car. I got a lot of compliments on it. You just dont see as much hardline work anymore. Most guys just run a praided line and call it done.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

FWIW, my 2000 C5 corvette with LS1 uses the crossover spider under the intake and it connects to the top part of the radiator.

I mimicked that with my turbo Nova.

To fill the system, I loosen the 4 corners and fill through the upper radiator hose until I see coolant at each corner. Tighten each as it leaks.

When running btw, there is a stream of coolant from the vent where it enters the radiator, just above the coolant level.

Just FYI

Ron

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well on to the next issue to figure out:

I need a pickup for rear wheel speed / driveshaft speed for the trac control in the ECU. I beleive the easiest way to do this would be a trigger wheel installed between the DS and the diff.

I couldnt find a trigger wheel with the 8.8 pinion flange bolt pattern or the size i needed, so i figured i would give it a shot at making one. I drew one up and gave it a go at burning it on the plasma table. The plasma was not meant for stuff this detailed, i figure if it does not work, i can send the drawing in to have it cut my a waterjet. I will hopefully know tonight if it all bolts up and if it was burnt out symmetrical. A couple of the teeth are a little wonky but here it is.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

As long as you can adjust or know the gap reading of the sensor you should be fine. Curious to see if this works for you.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Here is the link to the sensor i will be using:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/h...sor-p-479.html

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

That’s pretty cool, what ECU are you using again? Doubt you’d get the cleanest signal with the jagged cuts in the teeth, but I’d bet it works good enough for wheel speed.

I’m working on adding something similar this to my setup as well. Using the front wheel to pick up wheel speed regardless of the aft wheels spinning. Then using this information for “boost by speed” . Picked up a Fleetlink universal wheel speed sensor kit for $12.50 shipped. Plan to JB weld a magnet to my wheel and let it rip. I know with the AEM you can use the same method for traction control. You log a clean pass, then it compares what the forward wheel speed should be at “X” RPM compared to what the front wheel sensor is putting out.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I am using the MS3-Pro for the engine management. My original thought was to do something similar to what you described. I planned on putting on the front wheels and hubs off of an ABS car. Then using the wheel speed sensor to pull the front wheel speed and compare it to the rear wheel speed (driveshaft) and thats how the trac. control would work.

Then, i got talking to my tuner (Scott Clark) and he said that the front wheel speed is not needed in a drag car situation. He explained that most of the "big guys" cant compare the front wheel speed to the back because if you lift the front, the computer will think that your spinning and cut power. He explained how they do trac control based off of only the rear wheel speed and knowing that the rear wheels can not spin faster then "x" in a given amount of time- otherwise they are spinning and not getting traction. I could get some more details from him on it i am sure, however that was enough for me to know that i only had to come up with something for DS speed and not the front wheels speed as well.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Maximum air gap: 5 mm

"The trigger wheel must be at least 2 mm wide, the teeth and gaps at least 2 mm wide, and the gaps at least 2 mm deep."


There you go! I aggree with FF. Clean up the flat spots on top while maintaining the air gap and you should be fine.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Once i verify it fits where it needs to go, i will clean it up a bit and get it installed. Its a tight fit because of how my rear subframe is in reguards to how close it is to the pinon flange.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I got another package through the mail today. Another big piece to the puzzle:




But all that comes later.


Today, i got the exhaust off the car, removed the old chambered mufflers, had to change soem piping up and then fit the new straight through mufflers on the exhaust system. I added a v-band to the man section to be able to break it down into two sections for ease of installation. Once done and welded up, i gave it a coat of some header paint i had, not sure what it is without looking at the can, but its from the same people who make POR-15.

Before:



After:

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

You are going to love the ms3 pro.

BTW, I can water jet cut you a trigger wheel if you want to save some time.

Pm me if interested.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I will check and verify that i have it all right before i get it cut cleanly. however i will message you for some info.

Once i get the exhaust back on the car, then, its moving onto some of the wiring and getting all the sensors and componets placed where they need to be. Its starting to come together again which is great.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Let me know if you need help with the ms3 wiring and tuning.