Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I have Scott Clark lined up for the tuning, the wiring i believe i have most figured out as well. However, i may have a few questions reguarding the extra stuff, like how to wire in a button for use with the bump box feature and some other smaller things like that.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I was making good progress for the day on installing the MS. However i ran into an issue. I was following the MS3-Pro LS1 diagram off their site, and the colors and labels for "Spark C" and "Spark E" were switchd. To solve the issue i looked at the universial wiring kit for the MS3-Pro on the DIY site, and it just added to the confusion. I ended up talking to Scott, and he said to go with the lable on the wire and not the wire color. So, thats what i am doing, going with the label even though i am unsure. I suppose we will see.

Here is a pic of the two diagrams side by side. Now you can see my confuseion:

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well i figured out the wiring issue above. I found another chart deep into the MS3-pro manual that had some labels on it. I am pretty confident with what i eneded up doing on that front.

I worked quite a bit on the car on Saturday. Spend damn near the whole day in the garage installing the onboard air and working on the wiring. I must say i am very surprised and pleased with how the well the Ms3-pro was thought out from a wiring standpoint. All the wires are not only color coded but labeled with what they are for. Also groups of wires are color coded so they are easy to find. (spark is yellow, fuel white, etc.)

I still have a ton to do, but here are a few pics to make me feel like i acomplished something in this slow tedious process.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

How much did the on board air end up weighing?

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I never weighed it, but its really light, i would say something around... 5-6 lbs total if i had to guess.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

5/6lbs isnt much at all. I debated heavily between that and the CO2.. It must be nice to be able to air up your tires etc.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

The manuals with it say that the light duty one i bought is not for tire inflation, however, they are sold to more of the off-road crowd so i am sure they mean airing up a giant offroad tire x 4. I could see how that would tax the unit after a bit of use. Airing up a couple of slicks, that shouldn't be an issue for it at all.

Right now there is a plug in one of the T's. I plan on putting a female quick disconnect where the plug is. Then i will just keep the coiled up yellow hose in the car and be able to get some air in the tires when needed.

I did a trial run to make sure its all powered up and wired correctly, don't let the pump size fool ya, that thing moves a lot of air and its not overly loud either.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Yeah no way that thing would struggle with some slicks.. What is the rated PSI/CFM output? Does it take long to fill the tank?

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

105psi / 1.53 cfm is what its rated at. I have not filled the tank, i only ran it for about 10 seconds to make sure it was wired up correctly before i shut it down and moved on to othe things. Its the same system that Josey (STEEPSS) is using in his 280z.

Here is a link: http://www.viaircorp.com/oba-ultralight.html

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Thanks. I went with C02 myself but I am always curious about other options.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well i am still working on the wiring. Basically i have all the stock motor sensors wired up. Now, its on to the more speciffic thigns and trying to figure out how they all get wired in. I believe i have it all figured out except the relay for the t-brake and i am waiting on a reply back from Scott on that one. The bump box feature sends out a munch of mini pulses so the car bumps a little smoother when you activate the bump box feature to bump into the beam. I am unsure if a normal mechanical relay will be able to switch fast enough or if i should use a solid state relay, or how he would suggest going about wiring this in.


Besides the gobs of wiring i have found myself surrounded in, i have found time to do a little research on the rear drivetrain as well. I have been way worried about my outer CV's holding up to the power. I believe i have found a solution to this as well that i may tackle once i get the ecu all wired in and working correctly.

Long story short, there are some theorys out there about using a FD outer CV in replace of the FC's. However, very few have actually tried this. I think i have a way to get it all to work. So now i just need to find some FD parts and get them aquired so i can do some R&D and get it all to work together.

hopefully i will have something more exciting next time i post it up... maybe a first fire on the new setup - depending on how ambitious i get this week

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Way back when I was thinking about using the FD outer CVs, but something about the swap made it not very practical. I don't remember exactly what the problem was. Maybe it was the bearing diameter or the spline count. It's been years since I played with RX7s. The other downside of using FD parts is that those are getting to be hard to find as well.

Honestly, if you want a bulletproof set-up, get with Frank at the Driveshaft Shop. They can see you up with billet outer hubs and massive CVs and a bar that will mate with the stock Ford inners.







They also offer billet inners for the Ford.



When using stock Ford inners, make sure you don't loose these:



Those are like gold.

Andrew

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I talked to the DSS about a year ago. i am running their upgraded bars, but i was told the only thing that they could do for me for an outter is to go to the full Pro series axle that costs $2250. Thats a hefty price tag for the setup.

I have talked to one other guy that is currently running FD outers on his FC. Supposedly, you can use the FD hub, bearing, and outer CV. Then you have the FC knuckle (right term?) machined so the larger FD bearing / hub can press into it. From what he says and from what i am reading, the OD of the FD bearing is only 3mm larger the the OD of the FC bearing. Beyond that, its open up the brake caliper a little more for the axle nut to fit and tighten down and all should work. Again, this is all what he has told me. I have not tried myself, however he claims that this is what he has done and is currently running them on his car.

I may contact the DSS and see if there is something that can be done with the outer CV by itself for the FC. Howeever, if i can get the FD hub/cv to work, i think that would be alot cheaper upgrade that will handle the stresses of the dragstrip.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

All that sounds about right for the FD set-up. Years back Timken had a killer online database that showed the various dimensions for all the bearings they make by application. Something here might help:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products.../Catalogs.aspx

Andrew

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well as far as progress goes, i have everything engine related wired in and ready for first fire. I have also gotten some of the switches and extra things wired in as well. I stil need to wire in the boost selenoids, along with the t-brake and the trac control. Its getting nice out, so i am starting to get the bug to get out in the car again. Tonight should be first start up. If all goes well, he coolant system will go back in the car, and i will see if i cant take it out for a drive within the next couple of days.

I will try to update this thread with some pics and maybe a video or two of the car and how it sounds with the new cam and exhaust. I am hoping it sounds decent. I really liked how it sounded with the old setup. I am sure this toned it down a little going from a 112 to a 115 LSA on the cam.

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

Look forward to seeing the dyno numbers.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well, last night was the night to try and start the car. Long story short, we got the car to fire and idle. Still working on bringing the idle down a bit but i am sure i will get that figured out. I think its the IAC settings in the MS3-Pro. Besides that, engine wise, the car ran great and sounded really good. However, trying to get coolant in it, one of the hoses kept popping off, so i have to get a new elbow and redo some of the coolant line to prevent that from happening.

Here is a short video, not much to see or hear, for some reason the audio is a bit wonky and does not sound right. The car sounds much better in person i guarantee you.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

It took me a bit, but i was experimenting with the tablet/bluetooth connection on the Megasquirt. it works out really well, really no lag. However you can not be connected to thte tablet and the laptop at the same time. Which is not a big deal, considering the laptop will only be connected while tuning, and all the info is on their when tuning obciously. Anyway, i think the tablet will work great for my gauge cluster.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Looks good! Is that shadowdash APP? I have an android tablet and downloaded shadow dash. You can tune/log from it as well as use it to display gauges. Also the GPS feature on the tabled displays your MPH.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

yes, it is the shadow dash app for android. You can see the gauges on it - hence why it will now be my dashboard. HOWEVER, you can NOT tune from the android app. If you want to be able to tune from the tablet as well, you need to get a windows based tablet and connect it via the USB cable.

As far as logging goes, you do not need any add on to log with the MS3-Pro. there is a built in SD Card. You can have it automatically log at all times, off an input switch, or even just when you go over a certain mph or different ecu trigger. ... When you want to see the log, you just plug in the laptop, and pull it off the SD Card.

Yes, the tablet uses its own GPS to display speed. its all really neat