JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I know I've seen where the stock GM and Compstar cranks don't like the F1 series blowers from Procharger that much. So, I've been looking at a couple of different options in 3.622" cranks for use with an Aster Bracket and CBR 8.65" crank pulley:

For inexpensive wonder if K1, Manley, or Molnar would be better than Compstar? Would any hold to 1000rwhp with an F1 series blower?

I know Callies and Bryant make really strong cranks if you're willing to step up and buy them. But from Callies, the budget would allow for a Dragonslayer and not much else (maybe a Magnum). But I've seen at least one Dragonslayer break with a Procharger.

I've also seen that Lunati makes a blower crank... but it's 4.5" stroke for the LS motor. So yeah.

Any other options? In the sub $1500 range.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Dragon slayer, it's the only us forging you have mentioned

There is the lunati pro series too, that is the equivalent of a Callie's Magnum.

The Magnum is the same forging as a dragonslayer with additional machining and to finishing.

You dont need a billet CCW like Bryant or winberg

Aaron at SDPC

We have built a ton of blower setups utilizing the Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft with good results.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

I've seen Manley cranks handle 1000 rwhp many times.
Dragon Slayer, Magnum, and Lunati as well.

I've built a couple 900 + RWHP procharged engines using Eagle cranks. Just need to be cautious with the machine work with these. Meaning Eagles machine work can be sub par.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

A few builders have recommended the Manley cranks for a Procharger to me. Even though they are Chinese forgings too, they are pretty tough.

I had wondered about the K1 or Molnar stuff. I have heard of the K1s not being as tough as Compstar or Molnar. And the Compstars seem to snap more than stock cranks with Prochargers at lower power levels.

Dragonslayer may be the way to go or Manley. Rods would probably be Compstar or the Molnar turbo rods. Hard to beat them for the price.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Dragonslayer at minimum.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, Detoxx.

Looks like the Callies Ultra rods are only about $450 more. Hmm...

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

For what it's worth, my 4" Eagle crankshaft loves driving my F2.

Okay, love probably isn't the right word to use. My main bearings do show that the crank starts turning into a wet noodle when I turn the power up. I don't necessarily see that as being a horrible thing though. To me, it shows that the Eagle will flex a bit and stay alive which can be a good thing in some cases. I should probably restate the first sentence and say that so far, my Eagle crank has not broken driving a cog'd F2. I'm not easy on it either. If it's not squeezing a gallon of water out every pass then I keep turning it up (slight sarcasm).

The F2 is one of the worst blowers in the line up when looking at required power to drive. I has propelled my 4110 lb truck to an 8.99 at 154 mph. At that blower speed I was seeing around 26 lbs. of boost and the blower was soaking up around 250 horse power.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

Oliver speedway rods are in quite a few 2k hp builds, there cheaper then the ultra billet and there not on backorder. Windburg is an awesome crank for the money too

SStressin

iTrader: (5)

I went with the callies ultra h beams and dragonslayer for my f1a. I wouldnt trust the compstar at close to a 1000 with the weight of a procharger

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

The. Speedway rods are substantially more beefy in the small end than the ultra I beams

stevieturbo

I've only seen a couple of mentions of cranks breaking with a blower ( Vortech though ). They were different brands...but both 4" cranks and they broke at the first web/journal inside the first main bearing cap.

IMO stay away from strokers and most of the cranks will probably be perfectly strong.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, guys.

I was able to find a pretty good deal on a Dragonslayer/Callies Ultra combo. I guess I'd look at maybe doing it in my 02 LS1 block for a 347...

The issue would be the block itself and the heads. The F1A-94 may be too much on the 347 without getting into some issues.

What can an LS1 block reasonably hold? 900rwhp? The LS2 and L33 are a bit better, but the 4-bolt heads are still potential issues once you get near 4-digit land.

neverstop

lots of guys deep into the 8s on ls1 block, I believe Arun up in canada did that with his vette and a blower so I have to think 1000hp should be fine?

of course dpeending on setup and tune

tvanlant

iTrader: (4)

I think you're going to run into block issues way before you have crank issues. I would guess most of the broken cranks you've seen were from big blowers (like an F2 or F1X) and probably had the belt way too tight, or on a cog belt.
The stock crank would probably be fine. Chinese forged, even better. Dragonslayer - totally overkill.

The F1A-94 is an incredibly efficient blower and requires very little drive power. Don't overdo the belt tension. I've spun my F1A-94 up to 20psi, stock crank, stock bottom end LS2, 8 rib belt, and very little belt tension (gates non-adjustable torsional spring tensioner).

Dynospeed

iTrader: (3)

The F1A-94 is a bad bitch turned up. We are running a Lunati Crank going 7.5x@180 3300lbs. Currently switching to methanol and will also use a F1x-12 for mx235 races so we will see how it like that.