jsniper

Hey guys, I need a little help. My engine has a forged bottom end 9:1 compression ratio and it has around 1300 miles on it. I have the STS turbo kit on the car and when I'm at 12psi and running her hard the dipstick pops out because of the crank case pressure I'm guessing and then starts spraying oil out from the dipstick tube. I let my car idle when it was cold in the morning until it got warmed up and the whole time I would constantly remove the dipstick to see if there was pressure coming out and there was. I bought the car recently and it just had the engine rebuilt but the machine shop told the previous owner that the engine needs 20-50w oil. I'm sure the engine was built with too much clearance because there is a lot of piston slap when it's cold and even when it warms up you can still hear it but not as bad. I'm assuming the extra clearance in the motor is causing the pressure in the crank case and even at an idle it's pretty exessive so I can only imagine what it's like under boost. I'm sure that the pressure is pushing my dipstick out.

My question is what do I do to stop this pressure from pushing out my dipstick? Aren't there special oil filler caps that have filters on them that I need? I need to relieve this extra pressure somehow but I don't want to have oil spraying out either.
Thanks

kp

iTrader: (34)

Make sure, if you still have the stock PCV hooked up, that you have a check valve between the intake and PCV valve so the boost isnt pressurizing the crankcase. Also make sure the vent line from the throttle body to the valve cover on the passenger side isnt hooked up like stock, that will do it to. My forged pistons are pretty loud cold as well and I can still hear a couple when its hot plus I run 20w50 and I'm not pushing the dipstick out at 13psi

Race-Prep

The only way to properly alleviate this problem is to re-build the engine correctly. However there are some things you can do to help the problem, you can either try to vent the crank case via a filter on the oil cap or the like or the better way would be to use a crankcase ventilation system that goes in the exhaust system and uses the flowing exhaust to scavenge the pressure in the block out and can actually free up some power in the process by helping your rings seal better, look around on the web and you will find these systems they are cheap and any muffler guy or decent welder can install it in your exhaust just be sure to keep it as close to the collector in the header/manifold as possible preferrably in the collector right after the merge point.

-Bryan

TurboBerserker

iTrader: (1)

Also make sure you have the STS PCV pump wired correctly -- there is a ground wire in the STS harness that should be on the bolt you secure the silver air pump to the manifold with (since the mani is plastic the pump won't be grounded ow).

jsniper

Anyone have a manual that came with there STS kit that they could scan for me? I'm not sure what/where everything is and does. I was considering getting the oil cap filter but it appears that the STS kit has some type of PCV device?

jsniper

I just went outside and looked at the little PCV electric motor and mine is mounted to the thermostat housing and has one black wire going to the side of it which is held on by a small nut. I would assume that this black wire is actually a hot wire and that the thermostat housing provides a ground to this unit. Is this electric motor suppose to run when the car is running all the time or just under boost?

I followed the black wire past the car's PCM by the firewall and could not follow it any further.

TurboBerserker

iTrader: (1)

That sounds pretty messed up

There should be a red wire going to that nut and there should be some vacuum hose connecting it to the PCV off the TB and then venting into the PCV on the passenger side head. There should also be a hobbs switch in the hose with two brown wires on one side and a red wire on the other. The hobbs should be between the TB and the silver pump.

Since yours in mounted in a non-standard place, you might be able to fix it by finding the red wire if everything else sounds correct.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I run dual breathers for now, and I am at 21 psi.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

showoff

MelloYellow

jsniper:

What is your breather setup?
PCV?

jsniper

I don't really have a breather setup as far as I know. The car has the stock PCV system and the turbo oil return line is going through the top of my oil cap on the valve cover so I don't think I could really use one of the filter type caps. As someone posted above, the STS kit comes with a small electric motor that has 2 vacuum lines on it. One line goes the the throttle body and the other one goes to the passenger side valve cover which has a small fitting that the hose connects to. I'm thinking that maybe this electric motor is not working. The other possibility is that my catalytic converters being stopped up are causing extra pressure to be built up in the crank case? These last couple of days I can smell my cats and can see a white powder caked up inside my exhaust tail pipe and the car is running really bad as soon as it warms up a tiny bit. I actually saw the cats smoking and inside the car, the center console was getting very hot. I'm ordering a MAC y-pipe w/o the cats today and the company is in my same state so I should get it tomorrow if they have it in stock. I'm goona try to call STS today and ask them about how to test and make sure that PCV electric motor is working properly.

kp

iTrader: (34)

you can just take a long screwdriver and gut your cats out, save some $$, and yes clogged cats can cause some blowby.

I'm reaally not familiar with what STS does for a PCV/breather but I assume if theres a hobbs switch like turboberserker described the pump should run under boost. I assume they use the pump to keep the crankcase pressure negative so the oil can make it back into the crankcase easily. I would call STS or one of their dealers and find some instructions..