Dry Sump + Turbo
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Dry Sump + Turbo
I have switched directions on poweradders, and I had a question on single turbo oiling with a Dry sump.
I have a ARE (Armstrong Racing Engines) 4 Stage dry sump system.
My question is do I still tap the oil return to the pan? If it is in the pan will the scavanging of the dry sump pump help pull the oil out of the turbo? If it does help do I still need to be concerned that the return is always running downhill?
Thanks
I have a ARE (Armstrong Racing Engines) 4 Stage dry sump system.
My question is do I still tap the oil return to the pan? If it is in the pan will the scavanging of the dry sump pump help pull the oil out of the turbo? If it does help do I still need to be concerned that the return is always running downhill?
Thanks
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Originally Posted by BTL FED
My question is do I still tap the oil return to the pan? If it is in the pan will the scavanging of the dry sump pump help pull the oil out of the turbo? If it does help do I still need to be concerned that the return is always running downhill?
Thanks
Thanks
Planning on a sealed crankcase?
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Originally Posted by 69firebird
going to be getting a single thumper kit?
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Yes, you need to keep it going down hill. I have the same pan, you need to keep the drain above the oil level in the pan. It's quite shallow with that setup. I ended up going into the front cover.
Planning on a sealed crankcase?
Planning on a sealed crankcase?
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No ventilation system. The crankcase is sealed, forcing the drysump to pull a vacuum in the crankcase. All the blow-by would then exit at the dry sump tank. This is common on NA engines and is getting more common on forced induction as the pumps get good enough to hold vacuum at high hp levels. The vacuum helps keep the rings from fluttering on the direction change and the piston operates in less atmosphere making more power available at the crank.
Kurt
Kurt
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
Ok, stupid here...what's a "sealed crankcase" mean?
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Originally Posted by 427
No ventilation system. The crankcase is sealed, forcing the drysump to pull a vacuum in the crankcase. All the blow-by would then exit at the dry sump tank. This is common on NA engines and is getting more common on forced induction as the pumps get good enough to hold vacuum at high hp levels. The vacuum helps keep the rings from fluttering on the direction change and the piston operates in less atmosphere making more power available at the crank.
Kurt
Kurt
Ahh, so in the very basics, the engine sees no vent to atmosphere beneath the top of the piston correct? I'm guessing that the PCV system is totaly elliminated or sealed going this route?
EDIT: Just curious, who else makes dry sump pans and setups for LSXs other than ARE and Canton?
Last edited by sb427f-car; 06-29-2005 at 12:45 PM.
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I have never used a Canton pan for a LS engine. The daily pan is a low profile road race pan that has the pump bolted direct to it. There are no scavenge lines, it is all internal in the pan. We use the ARE pan the most. The Daily is used when you need the engine extremely low in the car with a 5 stage system.
What is your car for? Street/drag or road race/street?
Kurt
What is your car for? Street/drag or road race/street?
Kurt
Originally Posted by 69firebird
are they better than the canton drysump pan?
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Originally Posted by 427
I have never used a Canton pan for a LS engine. The daily pan is a low profile road race pan that has the pump bolted direct to it. There are no scavenge lines, it is all internal in the pan. We use the ARE pan the most. The Daily is used when you need the engine extremely low in the car with a 5 stage system.
What is your car for? Street/drag or road race/street?
Kurt
What is your car for? Street/drag or road race/street?
Kurt
Me, I was just curious. We're talking like 5 motors down the road before I'd even begin to think about needing that kind of setup,
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Yes, you need to keep it going down hill. I have the same pan, you need to keep the drain above the oil level in the pan. It's quite shallow with that setup. I ended up going into the front cover.
Planning on a sealed crankcase?
Planning on a sealed crankcase?
I have the same setup and did the same. The only problem I am running into is oil going back into the turbo at the end of the track when I pull my shoot.