Taco

iTrader: (1)

I am thinking about starting to gather parts for an eventual budget boost build-up.

I want to use an LQ9 block and ported LQ9 heads. What OEM crank (if any) can I use (or low-buck aftermarket, ie. Eagle?) that will support around 700 (maybe more) RWHP, or is that even possible. I want it to be reliable, but I NEED it to be as inexpensive as possible (No Callies.... mmm kay).

I also need to know how to go about ordering pistons to work with those heads (are they LS1 pistons or 6.0L LQ9 pistons, how much dish, what connecting rods....)

I really want a Pro Charger now, but by the time this happens I might want to go turbo, so I will wait on cam selection and such until I make up my mind.

Ideally, I would like to be able to put down more like 800, but I think that is probably pushing it.

I guess what i need to know is how much HP can you realiably make with an Iron Block, Stock crank, forged pistons, good rods, and Stage II or III LQ9 heads, with a D1SC (I think that's right...!)?

Thanks in advance!
Taco

dynedta

iTrader: (4)

HA budget ad boost lol
for the crank just use the stocker it will do just fine, pistons you will be looking for the 6.0L pistons there are a few companies diamond, ross, etc check with the sponsors for prices. The dish you want depends on your preference -8.6cc is always a good start. Eagle rods work well and they arent very expensive. As for how much power can it take? Well it all depends on alot of things 800hp is not out of the question but its not "budget" either.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, "Budget", "Boost", and "800hp" don't go together well

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Budget DOES NOT equal Boost

If you did a D.I.Y. truck mani kit, I'd say you would be about $4k for the turbo ****, $1200 fuel ****, and an under-estimated $500 for misc stuff like gauges. This is only because I see you have a forged motor and rearend already. The only reason why I am throwing these estimates around is because I already researched the prices for all this stuff.

Also, factor in a better clutch? and possibly built T56?

Let us know what you come up with. Good luck man.

Andy

DrTurbo

iTrader: (3)

Stay stock block, stock crank, swap rods and pistons with a 76GTS or GT42-80 if you want even more. Easiest and cheapest way to go about it.

Taco

iTrader: (1)

OK, maybe I should rephrase. I don't necessarily mean I want to do all this for $2,000 or anything like that, I just don't want to buy a $6,000 rotating assembly if a $2,500 will do just fine.

OK, so I use a 6.0L Iron block, stock (6.0L?) Crank and get a good set of forged -8.6cc dish pistons and a good set of (H-Beam? Eagle, Crower, Lunati?) Rods, appropriate rings, wrist pins, bearings and fasteners. How much am I looking at. I am seeing around $2200 to $2500 (in parts) depending on some good deal that may be found. I would want to use ARP fasteners where necessary, stock GM where not.

That would make it a lot easier to use some stuff off my current setup (intake, rockers, etc...) and be able to spend a little more on fueling and computing and help it be a "safer" setup.

Thanks for all the help so far! Please keep it coming!
Taco

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Machine work on the block, having pins pressed, having the rotating assembly balanced costs money too, add that in to your parts total. FWIW I'd go with an LS2 block over the iron block as well.

Taco

iTrader: (1)

OK, can you (or somebody) give me some pros and cons. I see the obvious weight savings of the LS2, but is it not quite a bit more expensive and weaker than that iron block?

I don't know these things, that is why i am asking!

I have a very good machine shop that I can get the work done very cheap and quick, so that part might cost a little, but not what it might cost some. I can do the actual assembly of the motor itself (putting the big pieces together with the other big pieces, I can't do the wrist pins and valve springs, but I can do a lot of it).

Thanks for the help!

Taco

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Noting wrong with a iron block, my 408 is a iron block and it was pretty well priced.

Taco

iTrader: (1)

Also, (I know you guys don't really like to do this, but I am going to ask anyway) what kind of ET's might I be able to run with a setup like this.

I have a 9" with 3.70 gears, would probably be running on 16's with MT Drag Radials. Centerforce D.F. clutch and very little weight reduction.

Just curious, don't know what to expect. I would like to run in the 6's (1/8th mile) or at least deep in the 7's.

Is it possible?

Thanks again for all the pointers and advice!
Taco

Taco

iTrader: (1)

OK, I just flipped through the Tosto-High Tech performance magazine and found an engine very similar to what i am talking about building, except it comes with AFR heads. Speed Inc. has what they call a "Sportsman 370 Boost Long Block" that uses the 6.0L iron block, GM Crank, Eagle Rods and Diamond 8.6:1 pistons. It also includes a boost-ready cam. It is the same motor that is in their 8.5 sec Camaro.

Which way would be better, to try to piece it together myself or just buy the ready-to-drop-in-and-go long block. Also, anybody know what theses engines do without boost? I would like to still be able to drive my car before I boost it. Will it still have decent power?

Thanks again!
Taco

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

I'd say the speed inc block isn't a bad way to go, I have had pretty good luck with them in the past.

Taco

iTrader: (1)

Note to self: Anybody that goes by "Boostaholic" must know stuff about stuff!!!

Thanks!
Taco