Harlen: Stock crank for turbo motor, iron block? 4.7 / 5.3 / 5.7 / or 6.0?
#1
Harlen: Stock crank for turbo motor, iron block? 4.7 / 5.3 / 5.7 / or 6.0?
I know some of the cranks are the same but which one should I use for my turbo motor? I need a new one. Planning on 600rwhp now and 850 later.
I believe I remember seeing that one had holes for better oil flow or something and the other didn't. Is that correct and pro's and con's?
Just tell me what Harlen was using. lol.
I believe I remember seeing that one had holes for better oil flow or something and the other didn't. Is that correct and pro's and con's?
Just tell me what Harlen was using. lol.
#2
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4.8 is a different beast, shorter stroke. The 5.3/5.7/6.0 all start as the same casting, the cars are drilled down the center (main journals) for weight reduction. No special oiling that I know of. I ran a 5.7 crank in the car. The truck is using the 5.3 crank that came in the truck.
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i guess it might be. If memory serves from my college days (many beers ago) torsional stiffness goes up at radius^4. It might only be the second power, i'm an EE after all But that .5" radius at the center is mostly along for the ride IMHO.
I personally wouldn't freak over one or the other. The simple fact you're pushing a cast factory crank over 1k HP should out weigh the fact it might have a hole bored down the center
I personally wouldn't freak over one or the other. The simple fact you're pushing a cast factory crank over 1k HP should out weigh the fact it might have a hole bored down the center
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
i guess it might be. If memory serves from my college days (many beers ago) torsional stiffness goes up at radius^4. It might only be the second power, i'm an EE after all But that .5" radius at the center is mostly along for the ride IMHO.
I personally wouldn't freak over one or the other. The simple fact you're pushing a cast factory crank over 1k HP should out weigh the fact it might have a hole bored down the center
I personally wouldn't freak over one or the other. The simple fact you're pushing a cast factory crank over 1k HP should out weigh the fact it might have a hole bored down the center
T-torque
t-torsional strength
C-outer radius
And J is pi/2 * (Radius-outer ^4 - radius-inner^4) which is the polar moment of intertia IIRC.
So boring a hole through the middle will have very minute effects on the overall strength of the crankshaft.
You have a good memory of ME stuff for an EE!
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The crank with the hole down the center would be better for what you are doing. The hole down the center helps balance blowby/windage problems that come from a skirted block with wet sump oiling.
Kurt
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Originally Posted by 427
The crank with the hole down the center would be better for what you are doing. The hole down the center helps balance blowby/windage problems that come from a skirted block with wet sump oiling.
Kurt
Kurt
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Does a crank need to be rebalanced if it is used in a different setup other than what it was intended for? ie a 5.7 crank in a 6.0 block since the pistons are a different weight.
#11
Originally Posted by quicksilverado
Does a crank need to be rebalanced if it is used in a different setup other than what it was intended for? ie a 5.7 crank in a 6.0 block since the pistons are a different weight.
Absolutely, even with piston/rod changes withing the same family.
Hell, you should see how much mallory is take to balance a 5.3 crank with 5.7 rotating harware
Dave
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Interesting! I have a 6.0 in my 347 because when I built the motor I was planning on spraying the **** out of it and was told that the solid crank would be better.
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Originally Posted by rons 00z
i always thought it's easier to bend a solid bar instead of a hollow one since theres going to be more surface area affected(outer and inner) i would imagine it's the same idea for a crank.....does that sound right?
I will look that up though it does sound familiar in terms of strictly bending stress.