helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Been on this site about 2 years now and finally decided on a build that will suit my needs and goals without crossing over to a dragstrip car or breaking the bank (I hope).

Going to document my build as so many others have done on this site. I know this is nothing ground breaking, but you don't seem to see many engine builds take place from start to finish on here, at least in the forced induction forum.

My build is a simple D1SC Procharged 403 that will hopefully pump out 600-650RWHP at 12 or so psi. I hope to run solidly in the mid 10's whne finished yet still have great driveabilty along with all the amentities that a 2000 Camaro SS had from the factory with the exception of a little more set-you-back-in-the-seat feeling when your on the loud pedal.

For many..... you probably experienced this sort of build 5-7 years ago. I am a late bloomer to the LS cars so it is all still a little New to me. I have been a mechanic/machinist for over 20 years and have been hiding under a rock (BBC/SBC) for a long time and thought it was time to experience the New world.

I started with a NEW LS2 block from SDPC along with a Callies Compstar 4340crank and Compstar 4340 H-beam rods. I am using Diamond -22cc 2618 forged pistons and ARP hardware. Also will be using Federal Mogul bearing and Speed Pro Hellfire piston rings. Machining and building it all myself.

Started out inspecting the NEW LS2 block for any flaws, deburred the hell out of the sharp SOB, tapped and plugged the DoD oil galleys, and then proceeded to torque plate hone it +.005 to fit the Diamond pistons I am using.

Plan to keep up on the thread and document the RWHP as well as track performance.

Enjoy

Pwebbz28

iTrader: (31)

Good deal man!! I think you will surpass you goals by a few horsepower though.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Did a little de-burring on the pistons, opened up the small ends on the rods a few tenths and rough assembled it all to check block clearances.

After a little grinding on the block to clear the con-rods I honed it to 4.005" for the NEW Diamond pistons.

After mocking up all the short block parts and test fitting everything, I finished balancing all the individual parts and then did the crank. The Diamond pistons needed to have a few grams removed from each of them to match the #8 piston which was the lightest of them all (due to the reluctor clearance machined into it). My finished piston weight was 432 grams

All of the Compstar rods were very close and needed only minimal work.

The Compstar crank measured on the large side of spec on the mains and on the low side of spec on the rods but was very consistent and the finish work on the journals was very nice.

My bob weight was 1764 grams. The crank needed only one small .750" deep hole drilled in the rear weight (minimal work) and just a couple kisses in the front weight and it was done.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I noticed the LS2 blocks really seem to be affected by clamp load on the deck. While measuring the bore with and without the BHJ torque plate installed and torqued down I was seeing between .001"-.0013" difference in bore trueness depending where measured. No wonder these things sound like a diesel from a fresh start when they get some miles on them.

Although not uncommon to see, I decided to file fit my rings with the plate installed mimicing the shape of the hole when the heads are installed.

I am using ARP head and main studs on this engine.

I used two sets of Federal Mogul main bearings to get my oil clearance where I wanted it on the mains which was .0021"-.0022". I have done alot of research on this topic and it was a little different for me compared to the old traditonal iron horse SBC/BBC I had done in the past. Factoring in the expansion of the aluminum block prompted me to set them on the tighter side. GM has a pretty tight factory spec. (.0008"-.0021"), I guess I will learn on this one.

I used a 8-7100CH 1 Federal Mogul rod bearings which gave me .0025"-.0026" oil clearance on the rods. Nothing new here.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Wow, great build. What kind of rear is in the car?

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

After test fitting the main caps with bearings and torquing them down then dial bore gauging them a half of dozen different times or so I finally got what I could sleep with for main bearing oil clearance. I will say it is nice having the Kentmoore tool set to remove those stuburn main caps without tearing stuff up.

I assembled all of my rods and pistons and then installed the oil rail supports and then the rings.

Next I put the crank in for the last time and torqued up the mains. Then out came the tapered piston ring installer and the I hammered in the pistons.

She is going together real nice! More when I get to it.

I will be degreeing in the cam next and freshening up a used set of AFR 225's I picked up in the 4-sale forum.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Crankshaft endplay ended up at .004". GM spec is .001" to .012".

I measured the deck on this block when I got it and it was pretty close from side to side so I decided not to square deck it. It was within .002" side to side. I knew the Diamond pistons would be negative deck already so I left it go as didn't want to get the top ring any closer to the chamber than necessary.

The surface finish in the factory crate block was also good too. I used a profilometer to measure it and it had an Ra value of 32 microinches, good enough for the Felpro MLS I will be using. I could have gotten it better, but people don't seem to be having problems with GM or Cometic gaskets and Felpros have been working good too.

I am trying to end up at 9.5:1 or slightly better. It all depends on the finished head chamber cc and the gasket thickness I choose. Open for suggestions on this one......

Mr.Big

My stock bottom end Stock heads except for springs/retainers LS2, makes 713rwhp and 645rwtq on a load inertia dynojet 250 at 9psi using a P1SC... I do run an ALKY system... I see your goals being VERY easy to attain...

TransAmcoupe98

iTrader: (10)

Thats going to be a nice strong build...Get it on the dyno after break in and give us some numbers...

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Thats a solid build that will easilly hit your goals.We have a close 402ci running a P1 at 8lbs that makes 650hp/600tq.The D1 will definitely push the power higher.

PadreSmith

iTrader: (24)

Lovin the detailed explanation and good pics. Keep em coming. YEah!

kp

iTrader: (34)

Looks nice, didnt you just sell your F1A setup?

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

You should be pleased with the end result.

MonkeyBoneSS

iTrader: (7)

I was just in the sales forums here and noticed you sold the F1A kit and rotating parts?

Going a different route now? Either way awsome build up and love the pics. Great help for sure.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Ran into a strange one today. Cam would not install into the block......Strange
The reluctor was hitting the front bearing and preventing the cam from going in the block.

I was questioning if maybe the cam bearings were wrong, but I was able to install my stock LS1 cam no problem.

So I went ahead and measured the reluctor diameter between the Comp I have for the 403 and the stock cam. Oddly enought the Comp cam was .033" bigger on the diameter of the camsahft sensor reluctor.

Since this is an LS2 and I won't be using the LS1 cam sensor and I didn't want to hold up progress so I put it in the lathe and turned it down to the diameter of the stock LS1 cam and it slid right in.

I went ahead and degreed it in and everything is good. I am using a single roller N-Motion chain from SDPC with the torrington bearing on back.

I am running a smaller cam which is .232/.240 @.050 .595"/.605" on a 115lsa with LS7 lifters.

Also performed the lifter bucket mod for faster oil drain down.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Cam degree pics.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

9" Ford with a True Trac and 3.70 gears.

That's stout! Honestly I would like to see 650RWHP, but I won't be too disappointed if I don't. I am an A4 with a Ford 9" so I think I will lose a little there.

Thanks. Yes I did. Really wasn't what I was after, got a little strayed in the beginning trying to make alot of power. I just don't to get into all the cage requirements and stuff on this car, even though I won't be able to run it more than a couple of times at the NHRA sanctioned track close to me it will still be fun on the street. That was my whole original plan way back when. I will be using a 'used' D1SC I picked up off the Ford site and I just (last week) picked up the whole twin 4.5" intercooler set up for my car off the 4-sale boards which was in real nice condition. BTW, thanks for your help in answering my questions too!

Yes, milder.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Thats cool, honestly I still dont think I have gotten the most I can out of the F1A yet. D1SC is a very capable blower and a hell of a lot quieter, I'm sure it will do what you want and then some, its not that hard to end up with a 9 second car though and then the safety stuff comes in so I hear you on that.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=42

With your build I don't see a problem at all in making the power you are looking for. Take a look at the T/A in the link above that is with a D-1SC. Bob

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Got into the cylinder heads today....

These are some used AFR 225 (72cc) that I bought from a board member.

Before tearing them down I cc'd the heads and they measured 71.5cc and 71.8cc.

These heads had just came back from AFR from an inspection for the valve tip erosion. Several of the valves are NEW.

I started with measuring the heads for valve seat run-out. I then measured the valves for concentricity. The seats in these 1000 mile heads were out a good bit, not sure if it was do to excessive heat from the other owner's combo (turbo) or just normal to see on these.

The valves were all within .0025" run-out, more than I would like to see also.

All in all they are in really good shape, previous owner stated 1000 miles, not really sure how accurate that was. Who buy heads and runs them for 1000 miles and then sells them? Answer. Real rich people! Anyway I got a good deal on them.

Valve guides were in really good shape.