prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Hey Guys,

Well, I've decided to try my hand at building my own turbo kit for my 99' FRC. I'm not so concerned about forking out the money for an STS or similar kit, I'd just like to see if I can do - you guys can sympathize, right? lol

Anyways, I'm trying to figure out what the correct compressor A/R size I should shoot for. Since I'm going to use a Y-pipe configuration, it will have a 2.5" hot side. I was thinking of using a Master Power T70 with a .68 A/R, but I'm unsure if it's too big. I've used MP turbos for years and have always had good luck with them. I've got a local guy with a .58 A/R, but I have a feeling that it'll be far too small.

The motor is completely stock, but I will be adding a set of AFR 205's and an LS6 cam and intake. I was able to pick up a Lingenfelter FMIC from a local distributor, so I'm trying to get about 6-8psi out of it, initially at least.

Thanks in advance,
Vince

OHSIXCTSV

im doing a coustom gt67 rear mount as well, with 06 cts-v ls2 (100% stock), and would love to see what/how two configuration will very. this might be a usefull thread for alot of people, with the same intrest once the installs get underway. i wont be using a FMI, and have opted for meth/h20 for intercooling. also, 5-8 psi and @ 500rwhp is the max goal for the stock application. can't wait to see if we can add 2 more butt mounts to
the list of lsx's.

OHSIXCTSV

BTW i had a pewter frc back in 2000 and loved that car.
here are a few mamories...i meant memories.

Cmarsh

Nice wing

OHSIXCTSV

helped in road courses...*** end gets lite quick.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

You know, I just can't see spending the money to buy a kit that I can build my self. I'm a pretty good welder, but I really don't want to deal with the fitment and underhood temps associated with a front-mount kit. Besides, when you add in the silicone elbows and conduits, it's really not too complex. The hardest part, in my opinion, would be to fabricate the exhaust pipes to mimic the factory quads under the rear fascia.

I think it'll be pretty neat to finish it. My new house is getting a service lift (YAY!) installed which will make doing this a lot easier.

The first step is to figure which turbo I should start with. After that, it's just a matter of getting out my Tig and bandsaw, and start fabbing.

T61M^3

First step is determine how much power you want, and how much is realisitc.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Nothing too ridiculous.

Here are my parameters:

• 450-500rwhp

• 6-8psi

• Full boost 3600-3900rpm

*The horsepower figures are very conservative. Considering once I install the AFRs, intake, and cam I'll probably be in the low 400's anyway. The AFR and cam will also assist in lowering my spool time as well.

alwaysinboost

nipples dumdumdum!

T61M^3

What cam are you planning on using - for that kind of power requirement you may not need it, or can stick with a factory late model Z06 cam.

I would suggest a 60-1 or Precision SC61 or Garret GT35R or last but not least, Turbonetics TC66 (tad bigger, more for 500-550WHP). It seems .81 AR is one of the best fits for throttle response and not creating to much back pressure.

T61M^3

Also - some pointers

Stock manifolds, factory diameter piping, use every trick available to insulate the hot side piping to keep heat IN the system.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

I've already got a new LS6 cam sitting in my garage, so I'm probably just going to use that. I've used one on a boosted application before and it worked great.

The plan is to use the least boost as possible so I can rely on my shortblock to stay together, hence why I'm changing out the top end.

Do you happen to know if the 60-1 comes with a T3 or T4 housing?

T61M^3

T4, what size chambers are on your AFRs?

Remember, boost can be cooled down, engine compression can't be. Truck heads (larger chambers) may be a better route if you want to stay on pump gas with the maximum safety net.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

My distributor can get me a set of new 72cc 225's for $2100 - yeah, that's how bad they need money. Or they can get me a set of 205's with 66cc's.

I looked into getting a set of ported 317's but I can't find any for sale. The ones I did find were hack jobs that weren't flow tested.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

When in doubt it's always better to go a "little big" on the AR housing. The philosophy for this is that a bit more lag on the low end is better than maxing out the combo on the top and allows room to grow. a PT70 would be a good choice for your build if you're not totally bent on the MP turbo.

BTW, this thread I compiled back in June. It might give you a little help on constructing your oil return.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=sts+oil+fix

Also check Zombie's threads on his build. He might have a F-body, but the theory is the same and the principles are sound.

Good luck and lets see some pics when you build it!

chuntington101

there was a guy that built a single rear turboed vette for his dad i think. he used a Gt40R (T4) and said spool was crazy fast! it did however choke at the top end....

have a look at what some of these STS setups are on this forum. T6x with T4 housings seem to work well. poss go to something like a T70.

sounds like a sool project. be nice to see how you are going to run the piping...

T61M^3

Forgot to ask, is this an M6 car? I wouldn't go larger then a 66/67 as that seemsto be where the lag starts becoming more and more present.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Sorry about that. Yes, it has an M6 transmission

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

That was a great post! Thanks. I read it a few months ago when I decided to actually start this project.

I might have a few questions for you once I get rolling.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. Feel free to PM with any Q's/probs