THE_KOON

iTrader: (2)

I really dont wanna spend 2-3000 bucks on a different rearend. So i was wondering how can i make the 10-bolt itself stronger? If i can? Thanks

Asian LSX

iTrader: (4)

I'd just save up for a Moser, Strange or Midwest rearend. Thats what I'm doing. Money spent put into the stock 10 bolt could have been a nice start towards a stronger rear. It would really suck to have put money into the stock 10 bolt thinking it was "stronger" and then it jumps ship.

99twinturbofirebird

iTrader: (3)

just do a 8.8 , there is a thread that was just made about doing a build up and he only spend 600-700 for the whole setup which is badass

Blackhawk777

Trying to do anything to a 10 bolt outside of gear swaps are pointless. It'll still break. When mine lets go, it's moser time. Asian lsx is right, just put away money for a stronger rear.

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

Plus the cost of new wheels (stockers won't fit on a narrower axle setup), price of equipment if you do the work yourself (a good welder is at least $500), and/or many hours of a custom fabricator doing brackets, and lets not forget he got rid of the tq. arm for a ladder bar setup.

No this is NOT a viable option for 99% of us out there. Those with the skill and the tools, yes it is.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

.....this question comes up so many times...

think47

iTrader: (24)

you know where to find the thread?

tspence45

iTrader: (30)

Actually, there was a guy in the recent thread, that said he just had the 10-bolt axle tubes welded to the 8.8 housing. That way he didn't have to worry about any other custom fabricating. Then, you could just decide if you want to go with a ladder bar setup, or weld TQ arm mounts to the housing. The axle tubes would be the correct length, and the correct bolt pattern. So, you could re-use your brakes and wheels.

StrokerAce03

iTrader: (7)

Axle tubes have nothing to do with the bolt pattern; although you could have some axle shafts made to fit in the correct pattern. Also, isn't the torque arm part of the third member? I didn't think it was on the housing but I may be wrong. Even with all that you are approaching 9" prices when its all said and done.

badss_02

iTrader: (2)

You can do a t/a girdle to strengthen it up a bit... Other than that i wouldn't waste my money! I'm on my seventh 10 bolt, This time i will be going with midwest... I should have done it a long time ago.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

You need Uber Fab skills to make it work and most smart people update the older 8.8's with fresh guts which is an added cost. Even if they just rebuild the posi, fresh gears, bearing, oil etc etc thats an added cost.

carusso

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...8-8-build.html

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Thats a good link. But I will still say, unless you got a guy w/ tools, equip, and know how to do it for free, or you use your own sweat equity, your not getting away for any less then 1,000-1,200.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Isn't that still about 1/2 the price of a 12 bolt/9 inch/S60?

thatguy383

iTrader: (1)

So if he wants to go with the 10 bolt still we have ta cover, weld axle tubes, and what are those bolts called inside that you can replace with stronger ones?

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I will add I am still on a 10 bolt ( have a 9 in ready on the ground ready to go in.)
my A4/10 bolt/ta cover/detroit locker/3.73/ mos axels/welded tubes/mt drag radals/air bags/adjust ta on body mount/relocate brackets/adjust lca/MID- 11'

02'z

iTrader: (1)

You could do it but it will just be as expensive as buying a 12 bolt/9". If you get rid of the c-clips, upgrade your carrier, axles, use a good gear, weld the axle tubes and get yoke that will accept a 1350 series spicer u-joint oh and a griddle cover but that just sounds like a waste of money to me. If you want to do little inexpensive things to beef up the 10 bolt. I would start with welding the tubes, getting a good gear and a TA support cover.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

new 12 bolt is about 2000-2500 depending on options and installing yourself. My est on price is assuming help (see: for free) will be provided by someone or the person who is building it has prev exp, skill, and tools to do the work themselves.

My 1 to 1.2k est is most likely a good low ball. If I have some time I'd price the parts out and see if I were to rebuild it correctly and then fab up the pieces etc etc.

Edit:

IMO IF I were to do this project, I would not use worn parts. The main issue is strength and reliability.

Sure, you can get a Junk Yard or used Rear, thats fine but I am still putting fresh guts in it, cleaning it up, fabbing the needed brackets and then paint and finish. ALSO I will be upgrading this like the axles, studs, and rear girdle.

Here is the local Mustang source I have in CT, they tend to be very competitive with Summit/Jegs.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/LM_...Site/00196.htm

and go through, down to pg 202

IMO you should put on C clip Eliminators, so after upgrading the gear/pinion and axles (5 lug), your spending money on wheel studs and Girdles (diff cover), posi unit (or spool), fluids, and gaskets.

Thats called doing the job right, the 1st time.

Camaro Junky

Strong 10-bolt???? is like saying pure as the wind driven snow prostitute????

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55