Bad Front Wheel Bearings...
09-09-2010, 11:55 PM
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Bad Front Wheel Bearings... Hey all,
I took the SS in for an alignment today (Goodyear tire center)... they said the front wheel bearings were so bad that they couldn't get it to stay in alignment. They quoted me at $435 out the door to replace the wheel bearings.
Does this sound high? Is there a 'performance' option for wheel bearings that I should look out for?
Thanks,
--Eric
2002 Camaro SS 12.8 @ 112
I took the SS in for an alignment today (Goodyear tire center)... they said the front wheel bearings were so bad that they couldn't get it to stay in alignment. They quoted me at $435 out the door to replace the wheel bearings.
Does this sound high? Is there a 'performance' option for wheel bearings that I should look out for?
Thanks,
--Eric
2002 Camaro SS 12.8 @ 112
09-10-2010, 01:05 AM
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replace the bearings yourself. it's and easy 10 minute job. they come as a complete hub assembly. just pop the caliper and rotor off and unbolt the 4 bolts that are holding the hub on from the back. piece of cake and it will save you labor cost and part mark-up!
09-10-2010, 03:59 PM
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The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
09-11-2010, 07:47 PM
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So.. autozone has the front wheel bearings:
Timken - $164 each - $328 for both.
Duralast - $104 each - $208 for both.
Is it worth the extra $$ for the Timken?
Thanks,
--Eric
Timken - $164 each - $328 for both.
Duralast - $104 each - $208 for both.
Is it worth the extra $$ for the Timken?
Thanks,
--Eric
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09-11-2010, 09:45 PM
#8
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
09-18-2010, 09:19 AM
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Everyone is so quick to say "do it yourself", but in all honesty $435 isn't a bad price at all to change out both wheel bearings including labor.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
--Eric
09-18-2010, 09:57 AM
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That's what I thought... but I didn't notice any howling at all... I took it in for an alignment because the prev owner road raced the car and had the alignment altered, so the inside aspect of the tires was wearing prematurely.
The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
The mechanic at good year said the reason he knew it was a bad wheel bearing is because when he grabbed the wheel by the top and bottom, it would rock back and forth, instead of being tight. Is that enough to know that it's just the wheel bearings? I thought it was weird that I hadn't noticed any howling or whining, if the wheel bearings were as bad as he said...
--Eric
09-18-2010, 04:56 PM
#11
My bearing hubs do the same thing on the front. Im confident there both original (176k miles) all bushings and balljoints are brand new. I would just double check everything to make sure it isnt something stupid and simple to fix first.
If your not confident enough to do the work on your car yourself. Then take it somewhere where your comfortable with and see what they say.
If your not confident enough to do the work on your car yourself. Then take it somewhere where your comfortable with and see what they say.
09-19-2010, 11:14 AM
#12
Everyone is so quick to say "do it yourself", but in all honesty $435 isn't a bad price at all to change out both wheel bearings including labor.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
If you are not experienced in working on vehicles or don't have the tools or location, that price is very acceptable.
However, if you want to do the bearings yourself, make sure you have the appropriate tools and knowledge. You have to disassemble the brakes, so if you aren't 100% comfortable with that, do not attempt it.
If you are going to get the bearings, do not buy the cheap ones. The Duralast ones are most likely made in China, and will not last very long. The only brands you want to consider are National, Timken, or SKF. Those are the three top quality brands.
01-09-2013, 06:05 PM
#13
TECH Apprentice
I'm pretty sure i have bad front wheel bearings and I think I'm gonna go buy those Timkens.
But just because I'm paranoid and I like to document everything...Does this video sound like just bad wheel bearings or something worse?
That's my car the last time I did an oil change. I think I'm around 117,000. Might need to put your volume to hear that metallic scrape sound. I promise you, there's no scary ghost girl or something at the end!
But just because I'm paranoid and I like to document everything...Does this video sound like just bad wheel bearings or something worse?
That's my car the last time I did an oil change. I think I'm around 117,000. Might need to put your volume to hear that metallic scrape sound. I promise you, there's no scary ghost girl or something at the end!
01-09-2013, 09:35 PM
#14
My bad front wheel bearing rattled and caused the car to dart around...but I have very aggressive alignment settings. I never had scraping. FWIW, it sounded exactly like the way koni da shocks rattle if you are familiar with that.
My truck does scrape and it is the thin sheet metal dust cover thing on the inside of the hub rubbing the rotor.
My truck does scrape and it is the thin sheet metal dust cover thing on the inside of the hub rubbing the rotor.
01-13-2013, 01:08 PM
#15
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So, I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearing/hub. I took out all 4 bolts that tie it to the "thing that holds the hub" (sorry I dunno). The hub is still fastened really tight, but nit by any bolt. I tried lightly hammering...and then frustrated hammering to no avail. I just pb blastered it, but before I go at it again, is there another mysterious bolt or fastener I'm not aware of, or is it just rust?
01-13-2013, 04:29 PM
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So, I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearing/hub. I took out all 4 bolts that tie it to the "thing that holds the hub" (sorry I dunno). The hub is still fastened really tight, but nit by any bolt. I tried lightly hammering...and then frustrated hammering to no avail. I just pb blastered it, but before I go at it again, is there another mysterious bolt or fastener I'm not aware of, or is it just rust?
01-13-2013, 06:54 PM
#18
TECH Apprentice
Well, I finished the driver's side hub replacement. Turns out, it really was just rust, and it took about a good 20-30 minutes of hammering, PB Blastering, and chiseling to get that damn thing off.
Alas, after I took it off, I noticed something funky behind it and saw that my sway bar was cracked all the way through... Looks like I'm in the market for one of those too...and I guess since I'm so far in now, might as well get new Tie Rod Ends.
My Mod Bug keeps getting squashed by the Repair Boot!
Alas, after I took it off, I noticed something funky behind it and saw that my sway bar was cracked all the way through... Looks like I'm in the market for one of those too...and I guess since I'm so far in now, might as well get new Tie Rod Ends.
My Mod Bug keeps getting squashed by the Repair Boot!
