Tracer Bullet

iTrader: (2)

Alright fellas, recently acquired a used Moser 12 bolt from a buddy and I'm wondering how to throw this in the car solo, without crushing myself under it, dropping it off the jack, etc. What do you guys do? Just ratchet strap it to the jack? I'm fine with the removal/install other than that bit. I've got access to 2 jacks, 6 jack stands, and gojacks.

Educate me here.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Put the frame of the car up on jack stands and swap the rears out with a floor jack under the center section. If you're careful the rears will stay centered on the jack and won't fall off. Don't tighten any of the suspension mounts until the weight of the car is back on the rear. Bob

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

That is good advice, I also like to leave the torque arm on the rear end and use the torque arm as a handle. It makes maneuvering the rear much simpler.

Carl

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That a good idea Carl. Bob

john stewart

i did mine in the driveway solo aswell and installed the torque arm on the rear end before installing in the car and atached the torque arm to the car first (tunnel mount) then control arms and shocks and springs
hope this helps and work smart slow and safe

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I'm 70 and change them out alone. Even though I do the little 10 bolts because of A4,if I was M6 and had to do a 12 bolt,I'd still would do it alone.
Just take your time and think everything thru. The most frustrating aspect for me tilting the rear to align up the driveshaft u-joint.

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

Hats off to You Sir!

This ought to inspire hundreds to get out there and do something to Your car today!

Carl

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yep, its not too difficult to pick one end up and set the center on a lowered jack. Just take your time and work smarter not harder.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Referring back to my post(#6 in this thread),complete removal and complete replacement is one of the simplest things to do. Unless you're dealing with(which I don't) adjustable panhard bar,adjustable lower control arms,adjustable torque arm,everything is unbolt and disconnect for the removal and connect and bolt for the installation. Except for the physical size of it,it's simplicity in its' basic form.
The pic shows the OEM 3.23 rear going back in after the removal of the 4.56 rear which I ran for 4 years. The OEM rear had a blown passenger side carrier bearing. After teardown.the housing was 'degreased',de-rusted,and POR15 painted. Then the rear was rebuilt on the bench where I could play with pinion depth,pinion preload,gear lash,carrier preload. Backing plates/e-brake assemblies were rebuilt and bolted to the rear. Everything was setup to be ready prior to installation of the rear.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Car firmly and safely on stands and rear end on a jack already placed under the vehicle bolt the lower control arms in place. Then raise the rear end until you can get the shocks bolted in to help keep everything in place. Once done install of the torque arm is a breeze so mount it in place then attach the crossmember to the vehicle.

I have done torque arm in place before it really depends on the height of the vehicle. If you can support the front of the torque arm with a jack stand already up in the air it will make it a little easier on you having the torque arm already installed. Other wise while jacking the rear end up the torque arm adds extra weight to work against you at the nose of the rear end itself.

As for taking it out of the vehicle I do the same thing, pulling the torque arm off fist, then the shocks, and lastly the LCA.

There is many ways to skin a cat and I have done multiple installs by myself and what has worked for me.

I can't stress safety is always key. Oh and in there you will have to deal with parking brake cable and brake lines.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

when you take the old one out, disconnect the shocks last. makes it easier to balance working around it. When you are ready to go back in, put the shocks in first as MWC recommends. I did a 10->12 bolt in probably 2 hours by myself in the garage on jackstands.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

If I had a dollar for every pallet made into a random cradle.... I'd still be broke.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...all-9-a-3.html

This is a little write up installing my 9" solo using some scrap lumber i had laying around...took some pics. I personally didnt like hanging the rear from just the shocks, it started to pull the bushings out of my bilsteins.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Still doing it at age 72.
3.23 rear end is out,4.56 rear end going back in. Quickly fabbed up a cradle to slide it to position with an opening to roll the floor jack underneath for lifting.
Project started about 2 months ago with a rusted brake line from front just before it goes into the flex line junction(3 channel ABS only) for the rear end. Decided to replace all the rear lines(NE Ohio rustbelt) so might as well change rear ends too( 4.56s' for fun). Then decided to convert everything back there to -3AN to eliminate the need for inverted flare and bubble flare and used SS tubing. Separate thread on that -3AN conversion.