best 10 bolt posi and gears
#1
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best 10 bolt posi and gears
ok im gonna do a posi swap in my 10 bolt and add some new gears i was thinking MOTIVE 3.73 gears and a TORSEN T2R unit is this the best possible setup i am looking for the best straight line traction i can get and would enjoy any improvements i can get thru turns too im running 315 35 17 nitto 55r's in the rear now
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I talked a bit with the lady at Strano's about the T-2R.
It is the superior unit for straight line, in the Zexel
family. It is also preferred by the AXers -but- you
have to watch your driving. See, the low-bias, un-
preloaded T-2 and T-2HD will basically not push much
on the sticking wheel once the other spins. This makes
the unit sort of "idiot safe", you lose traction but don't
losr cornering grip from the outside wheel. With the
T-2R preload you stand a chance of busting loose
both of them in turns, at which point you lose the
cornering force. So you have to be a more careful
driver especially in the rain (as is true with any
high-grip posi type rear as well).
It is the superior unit for straight line, in the Zexel
family. It is also preferred by the AXers -but- you
have to watch your driving. See, the low-bias, un-
preloaded T-2 and T-2HD will basically not push much
on the sticking wheel once the other spins. This makes
the unit sort of "idiot safe", you lose traction but don't
losr cornering grip from the outside wheel. With the
T-2R preload you stand a chance of busting loose
both of them in turns, at which point you lose the
cornering force. So you have to be a more careful
driver especially in the rain (as is true with any
high-grip posi type rear as well).
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I think there is a lot of mis-understanding here. The cars are very driveable in the wet, but you have to pay some attention. That's what you are to expect with ANY differential that biases a lot of torque around.
Also, in an autox situation, you push less with a T2R because of how it works, not more. Can you get a push? Yep, but that's much more due to driver error or car setup, than the diff.
Also, in an autox situation, you push less with a T2R because of how it works, not more. Can you get a push? Yep, but that's much more due to driver error or car setup, than the diff.
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#5
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Also, in an autox situation, you push less with a T2R because of how it works, not more. Can you get a push? Yep, but that's much more due to driver error or car setup, than the diff.
----
Rob and I both noticed that our newly installed T2Rs felt kind of like lockers on the street. However, after a few weeks of driving mine got a lot smoother (can't speak for Rob) and basically feels like a normal diff when driving normally.
My car is a daily driver, and my Kumho MXs are certainly not the best rain tire out there. The car is quite manageable.
The key thing to remember is that the T2R gets tighter as you apply more torque. If you are not on the gas, it's almost like an open diff. Conventional posi (like I have on my truck) can make the vehicle loose even when coasting, but the T2R doesn't do that. In other words, as long as you drive sanely, there's no problem
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If this is for a straight line car, I would reccomend the Eaton. You can upgrade many different ways, and it is pretty tuff to begin with. It isnt a "torque proportioning" diff like a torsen or true-trac, but a clutch style limited slip. From experience selling the stuff, the clutch style diffs and lockers are always prffered for straight line driving.
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Yes, I meant "push" as in push the car down the road.
I gather there's another meaning in racer idiom but I
don't know what.
I like what the T-2R has done for the car's ability to
accelerate in turns and in general. The car just flat
scoots where before I would make more noise than
motion if I lost one wheel.
But figured I ought to try and pass on (misuse of
racer slang aside) the caution.
I gather there's another meaning in racer idiom but I
don't know what.
I like what the T-2R has done for the car's ability to
accelerate in turns and in general. The car just flat
scoots where before I would make more noise than
motion if I lost one wheel.
But figured I ought to try and pass on (misuse of
racer slang aside) the caution.
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"Push" and "tight" are slang for "understeer" (nose sliding before tail). "Loose" is slang for "oversteer" (tail sliding before nose).
Actually, "push", "tight" and "loose" are the normal jargon in NASCAR racing. Outside of NASCAR, the terms are often used as shorthand for the proper terms.
Actually, "push", "tight" and "loose" are the normal jargon in NASCAR racing. Outside of NASCAR, the terms are often used as shorthand for the proper terms.