who281

iTrader: (1)

is there any way i can strengthen my stock 10-bolt with things such as

a girdle, new gears, axles ect...??

or should i just save up and buy a 12-bolt?

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

Tons of threads on this.

If you have an A4 you can probably get by with the stock unit. If an M6, save up for something stronger if you plan more power than stock and to run sticky tires. I wouldn't recommend trying to strengthen the 10 bolt. The weak links will still be there.

BudH

iTrader: (3)

I went through 3 sets of gears and finally broke the Zexel. 9 inch Moser installed and in the break in process!

M6

keliente

iTrader: (22)

You should read this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/510589-when-will-my-10-bolt-break.html

krauSS 02

i understand that you all say that there is no point in a 10 bolt being built, but there is a huge difference in price isn't there.

Like me shop quoted me 1100 out the door for a built 10 bolt(moser axles,gears,ta cover, bolts)
abd 1500 out the door for the same thing but adding a eaton posi.


but yet a 12 bolt cost anywhere from 2600-3000 shipped and installed.

so is it really worth anywhere from 1400-1500 dollar difference?

BudH

iTrader: (3)

The problem is, it (the 10 bolt) WILL break again!

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Go ahead and build the 10 bolt then, and when something else breaks in it and you are out $1500 and paying someone to rebuild it again, don't come here whining about it. It is limited by size. In this case bigger is always better.

Like I have said before...don't be the guy who says he can't afford a 12 bolt, who instead pays $500 to have the 10 bolt rebulit every weekend.

12 bolts are available for as low as $2300 shipped. Anyone with a decent set of tools and half a brain can install one themselves, in their garage.

The peace of mind is really what I was after in a 12 bolt. I liked knowing I could bolt up a set of slicks, leave at 5,500rpms, and have no problems.

who281

iTrader: (1)

so if i have an auto... 12 bolt or 9" or dana 60..?

who281

iTrader: (1)

and is a new tranny from FLT worth it b4 i get a H/C set-up or should i just wait?

krauSS 02

i was asking because my car is a daily driver and barely ever gets raced anymore.

si what kindof setup is good fo a 12 bolt.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Going to the 12 bolt, especially in an m6 car is one of those things you just gotta suck up and start saving for, drive the 10bolt til it blows and hopefully you can afford the 12 bolt by then. Dont be stupid and bolt on slicks with a 10 bolt and that will help it last some. but eventually it will go out on you, its not one of those well i'll get a new one and it will last a while. It is not strong enough, it will likely break again very soon if youve modded your car. The solution is buying a 12 bolt, unless your goin up towards 500hp, then id look into the 9inch, dont bother with dana

BADSS

iTrader: (7)

If your car is an auto, the 10 bolt will last longer because they shock the drivetrain less than an M6.

If you hardly ever race, you don't need to waste your money on a 12 bolt, IMO.

There are lots of 10 bolts in the 11's, and even some in the 10's- mainly autos, though.

I built the hell out of the 10 bolt in my 99 M6, and the only thing I ever broke was a ring and pinion which wasn't setup properly. The pinion nut backed out.

Here's what I had:
1.) Motive 4.10 gears (had them cryogenically frozen- only cost $40, so I figured it couldn't hurt, and might help).
2.) Welded the axle tubes 360*.
3.) Solid pinion spacer.
4.) Moser 28 spline axles.
5.) Eaton posi.
6.) LPW girdle (cover) with axle tube braces. (Supposed to reduce housing and axle tube flex- can't say if it helped or not)

I even wheelhopped the hell out of that rearend on street tires and on Nittos- which is supposed to be terrible for your rearend- and it never broke.

In the end, I just didn't trust it- so I sold it and got a Strange 12 bolt.

I hated the Strange: two sets of gears whined noticeably, the thing leaked fluid (even after replacing the cover gasket & some bearings), and my ABS and ASR never worked right with it. And I also had to wait FOREVER to get the rearend from Strange.

If I had it to do over again, I would take my chances with the 10 bolt.

Aftermarket rearends are stronger, but there are just too many issues with them, IMO- especially when you consider they all cost $2K+. For that kind of pricetag, they should be SILENT, not LEAK, and work properly with a minimum of headaches and issues. JMO, of course.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

If you have an auto, throw a girdle on it. It'll last a while and when it goes, get a used one for about $300 and throw the girdle on it. Just geep going that way and the 10 bolts will last a WHILE if you take care of them.

SS4Matt

iTrader: (4)

you just have to bite the bullet and get a stronger rear end if you want to really have fun with your car. i rebuilt my 10 bolt once just because at the time i didn't have the money. low and behold this spring, the 10 bolt went again (as can be expected) so i did what was right and got a 9 inch from Driveline Solutions