When will my 10 bolt break?
05-19-2006, 07:40 PM
#1
When will my 10 bolt break? Here's an answer for super-frequently asked questions.
When will my 10 bolt break?
Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where the 10 bolt will give out. It can break on stock power, at 350hp, 400hp, even 500hp+ for some lucky ones.
Because you cannot gauge exactly when it will break, it is important to think ahead a little bit, and take some steps to preserving your 10 bolt if a 12 bolt is not in your immediate plans.
Track hints:
1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case.
2. If you have an automatic car, you have a better chance of a longer-lasting rear end, due to less shock in the drivetrain. This does not mean it will never break - it'll just last longer.
3. Cars that come equipped with Torsen (mechanical) differentials tend to have more problems than Auburn (clutched) differentials. You can see which differential you have at your next rear-end fluid changing interval. If you have a torsen rear end, you will see gears inside of the differential, and there will be a steel block pushing your axles out. If you have an Auburn differential, you will see bright yellow springs inside of it.
3a. The torsens seem to wear out quicker whether you race or not. Tell-tale signs of a fading torsen are ratcheting/clunking noises when turning/low speeds/etc. If your torsen does break, you can replace it with another, or pick up an aftermarket carrier.
Preserving your 10-bolt:
1. Eliminate wheel hop. Suspension is very important - what good is a lot of power if you cannot channel it to the ground effectively? Wheel hop breaks rear ends. To minimize wheel hop consider stiffening your suspension. Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, even torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.
2. Maintain your differential. Always keep an eye on the fluid. Fluid seeping from the pinion seal is normal on these cars, but if it begins to drip onto the floor have it replaced.
3. If your rear end makes a considerable amount of noise, or you have had gears installed and the noise continually gets worse, consider having the car looked at. Failure of individual parts can trigger others to fail as well, so try and fix the problem before it gets any worse.
How do I beef up my 10 bolt?
You don't.
It seems like too easy of an answer, but it holds true. The 10 bolt will always be limited by the fact that it is simply smaller than a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60. Smaller = weaker.
Besides replacing the ring & pinion and bearings, adding aftermarket parts such as stronger axles only seems to be a waste of money. The minute you fix one thing, another will break. Rear end installs can be costly if you are not doing the labor yourself - it adds up quick. Don't be the guy who says he can't afford a 12 bolt, but has spent $1500 dumping money into his 10 bolt.
When will my 10 bolt break?
Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where the 10 bolt will give out. It can break on stock power, at 350hp, 400hp, even 500hp+ for some lucky ones.
Because you cannot gauge exactly when it will break, it is important to think ahead a little bit, and take some steps to preserving your 10 bolt if a 12 bolt is not in your immediate plans.
Track hints:
1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case.
2. If you have an automatic car, you have a better chance of a longer-lasting rear end, due to less shock in the drivetrain. This does not mean it will never break - it'll just last longer.
3. Cars that come equipped with Torsen (mechanical) differentials tend to have more problems than Auburn (clutched) differentials. You can see which differential you have at your next rear-end fluid changing interval. If you have a torsen rear end, you will see gears inside of the differential, and there will be a steel block pushing your axles out. If you have an Auburn differential, you will see bright yellow springs inside of it.
3a. The torsens seem to wear out quicker whether you race or not. Tell-tale signs of a fading torsen are ratcheting/clunking noises when turning/low speeds/etc. If your torsen does break, you can replace it with another, or pick up an aftermarket carrier.
Preserving your 10-bolt:
1. Eliminate wheel hop. Suspension is very important - what good is a lot of power if you cannot channel it to the ground effectively? Wheel hop breaks rear ends. To minimize wheel hop consider stiffening your suspension. Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, even torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.
2. Maintain your differential. Always keep an eye on the fluid. Fluid seeping from the pinion seal is normal on these cars, but if it begins to drip onto the floor have it replaced.
3. If your rear end makes a considerable amount of noise, or you have had gears installed and the noise continually gets worse, consider having the car looked at. Failure of individual parts can trigger others to fail as well, so try and fix the problem before it gets any worse.
How do I beef up my 10 bolt?
You don't.
It seems like too easy of an answer, but it holds true. The 10 bolt will always be limited by the fact that it is simply smaller than a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60. Smaller = weaker.
Besides replacing the ring & pinion and bearings, adding aftermarket parts such as stronger axles only seems to be a waste of money. The minute you fix one thing, another will break. Rear end installs can be costly if you are not doing the labor yourself - it adds up quick. Don't be the guy who says he can't afford a 12 bolt, but has spent $1500 dumping money into his 10 bolt.
05-19-2006, 07:45 PM
#2
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I ran 11's on my ten bolt with 4:10's for a year and a half (stock internal), the same week i put my Qa1's, springs and kmember up front I broke my rear for the first time, then I figured I 'd try a 3:73 gear since its a lil less likely to break, that only lasted 5 passes.....Some FYI for those who havent broke one yet.....
05-26-2006, 04:52 AM
#5
have pretty much stock LT1 and broke a 10 bolt with the 3.73 gears. left me set for 5 days. for the price of having a 10 bolt break. my next investment is a better rear end. like the 9 inch. and for a nine to work i believe you have to get a difft shaft. anyhelp is greatly appriciated on what i have to order to put a 9 inch onto a 95 ta with the 4L60e tranny.
06-08-2006, 02:38 AM
#6
funny thing is. my rearend that i had replaced just a week and a half ago. well here is what happened to it.
that little shaft bent and had to be cut to get off, spider gear lost 3 teeth biting the dust.
that hole is supposed to be a clean cut circle now its a fucked up oval
that little shaft bent and had to be cut to get off, spider gear lost 3 teeth biting the dust.
that hole is supposed to be a clean cut circle now its a fucked up oval
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06-10-2006, 10:40 PM
#8
11 Second Club
I have a cam only automatic. Only 27 passes ever. After four consecutive 11 second passes with 60s in the 1.64-1.66 range, with no noises or acting up of any kind before hand, it went 
Not even cam only autos that see the track twice a year are safe.
This was a few months after my TCI converter took a crap (for the second time) and took part of the tranny with it. Have a Yank now, but won't have any successfull passes on it for awhile as I could only afford $200 for a DIY, used 10 bolt replacement.
Not even cam only autos that see the track twice a year are safe.
This was a few months after my TCI converter took a crap (for the second time) and took part of the tranny with it. Have a Yank now, but won't have any successfull passes on it for awhile as I could only afford $200 for a DIY, used 10 bolt replacement.
06-10-2006, 11:15 PM
#9
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Cam only myself and after 3 years of the track it went . First 2 years TCI 3500 no cam and 1.7,1.6 sixtys. Sent the stall to TCI and made it a 4000. It ran 11's all the time with 1.58's the common sixty. Second pass the first time at the track this year and . I did put a BMR ADJ TA before getting out to the track. The stock TA has a ton of flex in it. The BMR has no give. I would have porbably had a low 1.5 or 1.4 on the breaking pass. Time for a 12 bolt. Time to send the stall back to TCI and make it a 4400. And the tranny needs a refresh also. If you race things do and will brake.
. First 2 years TCI 3500 no cam and 1.7,1.6 sixtys. Sent the stall to TCI and made it a 4000. It ran 11's all the time with 1.58's the common sixty. Second pass the first time at the track this year and . I did put a BMR ADJ TA before getting out to the track. The stock TA has a ton of flex in it. The BMR has no give. I would have porbably had a low 1.5 or 1.4 on the breaking pass. Time for a 12 bolt. Time to send the stall back to TCI and make it a 4400. And the tranny needs a refresh also. If you race things do and will brake.
07-16-2006, 11:18 AM
#11
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i beat my car on the street and at the track for 4 years on dr's and a 125 shot with no problems with the 10 bolt as soon as i put the 12bolt in i broke tq arms and a driveshaft, it clunks and bangs under the car not to mention that i cant get it to stop leaking,the first housing i had the axle tube split from the center section while i was driving and bent an axle, its been apart 4 or 5 times with the new housing every time new seals go in and it still pisses...i used to enjoy driving my car but now it just sits under a cover.its the worst thing ive done to my car...this is just my opinion
i know it was only time until the 10bolt grenaded but its going back in with 3.42's
i know it was only time until the 10bolt grenaded but its going back in with 3.42's
07-21-2006, 06:01 PM
#12
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and to think im leaving in a few minutes to the drag strip with my ET DRAGS on a 10 bolt 
oh well i have one more rear end sitting in the garage and its on to a 9"
oh well i have one more rear end sitting in the garage and its on to a 9"
07-29-2006, 09:51 AM
#13
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My 10-bolt held up fine, with 4.10's, behind an AUTOMATIC (can you believe that?!?!
) for lots of daily-driving, and quite a few 1/4 mile runs, UNTIL ...
... I took it ROAD RACING!!
Apparently taking your stock A4 out on a road course is NOT good for them? 
Let's see, after only ~40 laps or so around this rather short track (maybe ~1 mile long, but really short straights and lots of tight corners) I managed to shear 2 teeth off the pinion (I stopped racing after that and limped the car home) and then not ~3 weeks later, 2nd gear is slipping like a ***** in the tranny 
.
So, it's time for the good 'ol A4 --> M6 swap now!
But as far as the 10-bolt? I think they're perfectly safe behind an automatic in the 1/4 mile, even with slicks, until you start throwing really high stalls at them off idle (I think as long as you pre-load the drivetrain before launching, they'll be ok). JMO!
) for lots of daily-driving, and quite a few 1/4 mile runs, UNTIL ...... I took it ROAD RACING!!
Apparently taking your stock A4 out on a road course is NOT good for them? Let's see, after only ~40 laps or so around this rather short track (maybe ~1 mile long, but really short straights and lots of tight corners) I managed to shear 2 teeth off the pinion (I stopped racing after that and limped the car home) and then not ~3 weeks later, 2nd gear is slipping like a ***** in the tranny .So, it's time for the good 'ol A4 --> M6 swap now!
But as far as the 10-bolt? I think they're perfectly safe behind an automatic in the 1/4 mile, even with slicks, until you start throwing really high stalls at them off idle (I think as long as you pre-load the drivetrain before launching, they'll be ok). JMO!
07-31-2006, 09:26 PM
#14
Originally Posted by ws6on19s
i beat my car on the street and at the track for 4 years on dr's and a 125 shot with no problems with the 10 bolt as soon as i put the 12bolt in i broke tq arms and a driveshaft, it clunks and bangs under the car not to mention that i cant get it to stop leaking,the first housing i had the axle tube split from the center section while i was driving and bent an axle, its been apart 4 or 5 times with the new housing every time new seals go in and it still pisses...i used to enjoy driving my car but now it just sits under a cover.its the worst thing ive done to my car...this is just my opinion
i know it was only time until the 10bolt grenaded but its going back in with 3.42's
i know it was only time until the 10bolt grenaded but its going back in with 3.42's
08-16-2006, 04:44 PM
#15
My 10 bolt broke when I was stock aside from LCAs, choke master and HPPIII. The carrier broke at some point around 100K miles. I had not been to the strip in years.
They say 'sooner or later it will break', I represent the later crowd.
Must have been the HPPIII, lol
They say 'sooner or later it will break', I represent the later crowd.
Must have been the HPPIII, lol
08-22-2006, 06:44 PM
#18
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My 10 bolt is still alive with the mods in my sig and ET streets. But my car is an A4 and I have heard of people running in the high 10's with a stock 10 bolt behind an A4.
