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2.73's to 3.42's

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Old 04-14-2007, 10:58 PM
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Default 2.73's to 3.42's

I have a TA with 2.73's and was wondering if $300.00 for a used 3.42 complete rear end is worth the money? I guess what I wondering is is that about what you could expect to pay or is that a good deal?
Old 04-14-2007, 11:59 PM
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how many miles is on it? if its good mileage and not beat to death then its what u need to expect to pay i'd do $300 with the aluminum driveshaft with it.
Old 04-15-2007, 01:22 AM
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Anybody know how hard rearends are to change? Is there anything special that I need to know or any special tools I'll need?
Old 04-15-2007, 01:39 AM
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Complete rears are fairly easy... on a lift and with a trans lift to put it in place while you bolt it all up. On the ground with floor jacks, a little harder, no more than 4 hours even if you have to stop and figure out what you're doing every few minutes.

200-300 without the DS is fair, IF the posi works perfectly on the 3.42 rear. Otherwise, you'll be spending 400+ on a new posi unit. (Or 800 on an ARB air locker)
Old 04-15-2007, 06:06 PM
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just buy a used set of gears and then get the ring gear spacer from Speed Inc and call it a day
Old 04-15-2007, 06:20 PM
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Make sure the donor rear is the same as yours - same channel ABS. Did the same thing, swapped a 3.42 rear non TCS M6 into mine.
Old 04-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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Yeah I would jump on the complete rear if it is the same channel as yours. I swapped to 3.42's from 2.73's a few weeks ago and it cost me $199 for the gears and like $120 for the install kit with doing my own labor. So do the complete rear if it is in good shape, that way you got a spare as well in case you break.
Old 04-15-2007, 10:01 PM
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Do it if its the same channel. I paid $400 for gear swap from 2.73 to 3.42. Parts/labor/fluid.
Old 04-16-2007, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by THE CHOP SHOP
Yeah I would jump on the complete rear if it is the same channel as yours. So do the complete rear if it is in good shape, that way you got a spare as well in case you break.
Thats exactly what I was thinking. So whats this channel thing? Anybody wanna school me on this. How do I know by looking if it had traction control? I'll do a search in the meantime.
Old 04-16-2007, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MyTA99
Thats exactly what I was thinking. So whats this channel thing? Anybody wanna school me on this. How do I know by looking if it had traction control? I'll do a search in the meantime.
I got the channel thing. I have a 4 chanel so I just need to make sure it's has Traction Control. I never use traction control but once in a while the Wife drives the car and it scares her without it so I need to keep it. So for my 2nd question. How do I tell by looking at it? Anyone got pics?
Old 04-17-2007, 12:01 AM
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I did 2.73 to 3.42 via a full diff swap last summer.

$300 is a little high, if you trust the seller to know it has a good posi and quiet gears, then it might be worth it. But if you are unsure it is a little high. Higher gears are more likely to make noise, my 3.42's have a noticeable whine (not bad, but it's there) from 45-55. The seller of course promised it was dead silent (I have it in writing) but by the time you get the thing installed, are you really going to take it back?

Don't forget the cost of tuning, and all the hassles associated with it. How you handle that is every bit as important and is a whole nother can of worms.

I have no pride, I will admit a full axle swap took me closer to 7-8 hours, taking a couple breaks, being very careful, and working on a driveway and jackstands, hand tools. I had a buddy help only with the actual removal and lift of the replacement, and had a few stubborn bolts that accounted for an hour or two of that.

I could see under 4 hours with a nice garage setup, air tools, and a helper.

Also there is no better time to deal with other things back there (shocks, u-joints, etc.).

I kept my steel driveshaft, and swapped the yoke over. I have no vibration problems. My MPG went from 22-24 to 20-21. It doesn't sound bad on paper but it means 40 miles less per tank, so it adds up.

In the end I traded some mpg and quieter highway cruising for stronger launches and easier burnouts. I am not sure if I would do it again starting over - but I don't regret it. I use the car alot more as a highway cruiser than a street toy nowadays, so that definietly influences my opinion.
Old 04-17-2007, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by todddchi
I did 2.73 to 3.42 via a full diff swap last summer.

$300 is a little high, if you trust the seller to know it has a good posi and quiet gears, then it might be worth it. But if you are unsure it is a little high. Higher gears are more likely to make noise, my 3.42's have a noticeable whine (not bad, but it's there) from 45-55. The seller of course promised it was dead silent (I have it in writing) but by the time you get the thing installed, are you really going to take it back?

Don't forget the cost of tuning, and all the hassles associated with it. How you handle that is every bit as important and is a whole nother can of worms.

I have no pride, I will admit a full axle swap took me closer to 7-8 hours, taking a couple breaks, being very careful, and working on a driveway and jackstands, hand tools. I had a buddy help only with the actual removal and lift of the replacement, and had a few stubborn bolts that accounted for an hour or two of that.

I could see under 4 hours with a nice garage setup, air tools, and a helper.

Also there is no better time to deal with other things back there (shocks, u-joints, etc.).

I kept my steel driveshaft, and swapped the yoke over. I have no vibration problems. My MPG went from 22-24 to 20-21. It doesn't sound bad on paper but it means 40 miles less per tank, so it adds up.

In the end I traded some mpg and quieter highway cruising for stronger launches and easier burnouts. I am not sure if I would do it again starting over - but I don't regret it. I use the car alot more as a highway cruiser than a street toy nowadays, so that definietly influences my opinion.
Thats exactly how I was planning on doing my install, on the floor with jacks. I trust the guy I'm getting it from he is also my tuner. He's throwing in the tuning for free. I'm kicking myself because a year ago he offered to swap my rear end with his 3.42's for free and I didn't do it. Oh well now I'll have a spare. Oh and I mostly use my car on the weekends around town lookin for trouble.
Old 04-17-2007, 02:36 PM
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i think youd like the 3.73s better
Old 04-17-2007, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by staringback05
i think youd like the 3.73s better
Is this on topic? Just curious, this post is about a rear end swap, not about what gear might be best. Just a thought.
Old 04-17-2007, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Is this on topic? Just curious, this post is about a rear end swap, not about what gear might be best. Just a thought.
I 100% agree I've already done my research on what set of gears I want. I know I'll like 3.42's better. Still wondering if anyone has pictures for me to be able to identify 3 channel vs 4 channel.
Old 04-17-2007, 08:38 PM
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I dont have any pics to show ya. But I know that the pics of the rear in the sticky Keliente did the gear sawp in is a 3 channel with out TCS. So if you look at yours and the pics in there hopefully that will help with the difference.
Old 04-20-2007, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MyTA99
Thats exactly how I was planning on doing my install, on the floor with jacks. I trust the guy I'm getting it from he is also my tuner. He's throwing in the tuning for free. I'm kicking myself because a year ago he offered to swap my rear end with his 3.42's for free and I didn't do it. Oh well now I'll have a spare. Oh and I mostly use my car on the weekends around town lookin for trouble.
Sounds like a perfect arrangement. The $300 becomes a fair price if the tuning is included in there and you trust the fella, and for a weekend around town car you'll love it.
Old 04-20-2007, 09:55 PM
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3 channel has a sensor in the top of the housing and a reluctor ring (looks like a gear that doesn't mesh with anyhitng) inside the housing.

4 channel has no sensor on the top of ths housing and instead uses reluctor rings on each of the rear axles and sensors on the brake backing plates.

FYI.. you can use a 3 channel rear on a 4 channel car. just use the 4 channel axles and you may have to notch the housing mounting flanges to clear the ABS sensors. At least I had to on mine when I put a 3 channel rear in my 4 channel car. all this info is in the Stickys at the top of this forum too.
Old 04-20-2007, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sixvi6-camaro

FYI.. you can use a 3 channel rear on a 4 channel car. just use the 4 channel axles and you may have to notch the housing mounting flanges to clear the ABS sensors. At least I had to on mine when I put a 3 channel rear in my 4 channel car. all this info is in the Stickys at the top of this forum too.
I know but I dont wanna do that. I would rather just by 3.42 gears and have them installed.




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