smokenssz

iTrader: (24)

I'm about ready for the track but I need something to secure my battery. I have it mounted in the factory location but it isn't completely locked down. My buddy was not allowed to race cause of the crappy battery mount was not securing the battery. So what did you do? I tried looking for ideas but I came up short. Please post the link on what you used to lock it down where it can't fall back on a hard launch.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

You probably just need to get a new overflow tank. Each of my LS1 cars had the busted hold down (all cars were bought used), so I just hopped on eBay and picked up a junkyard tank/battery tray. That always did the trick; however, I also always had the right size battery.

smokenssz

iTrader: (24)

Well I thought about that however the buddy I mentioned has a new tank. The track inspector opened the hood and pushed his battery towards the rear and was able to make it move. So he had to rig something up to stop it from moving but it was a temp fix. (My battery is the correct size too)

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

The battery won't move if it's the right size, the lip on the tray is not broken, and the hold down bolt is tightened securely. If the battery is loose then one or more of these three things needs to be addressed. None of mine have ever been the least bit loose with all of these areas in check.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

i also have a slightly loose battery and was looking at jegs battery boxes & mounting kits. http://www.jegs.com/c/Batteries_Batt...65202/10002/-1 any sponsor here feel free to recommend one that works & looks good! thx! (battery hold down)

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I've found that the keeper block is only up to "suggesting"
the battery stay put, with everything proper. You can
make it give up without too much of a fight.

I've seen people use ratcheting tie-downs (like you get
for about 5 bucks at Harbor Freight).

But for something more permanent, I'd get one of those
replacement battery tray kits that has the L-section
keeper bar and threaded-rod J-hooks; a couple of holes
in the OE tray lip and you're solid.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

I recently ran into the same issue. Proper size battery, the bolt and keeper block are fine, however the battery will move with a little persuasion. The tech gave mine a good tug and it was ready to lift out of the tray.

Anyone have any experience with a more permanent fix? I ended up using bungie straps to secure mine, however would like to clean that up with a more permanent fix.

Fry_

I've thought of making a simple hold down bracket that would sit on top of the hold down block using the stock bolt and a the headlight bracket bolt that is almost centered with the battery on the radiator support. All it would take is a piece of 1-2 inch wide 12-16 gage sheet metal or aluminum, 2 90* bends and drilling 2 holes. I'd probably put some 1/8-1/4 inch think weather stripping on the back of it to protect the battery. It's so simple I'm surprised no one sells it.

Also the lip on my tray is busted and I have a piece of foam wrapped it black tape between the battery and the rad support to keep it pushed against the hold down block.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I used a piece of aluminum 1/8 by 1 or so. Attached it where the body brace is bolted to the radiator support then I made up a threaded rod attaching to the bottom of the battery tray. The threaded rod goes up through the aluminum bar and holds the battery down. Just to be safe I put a peace of rubber on top of the battery. The car has been through tech and passed.

RedDeadG8

iTrader: (3)

YearOne makes a hold down bar. it isnt cheap. Look it up, then make one yourself. It works like a champ.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...y-tiedown.html

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1982-02-camaro/bhfblk

smokenssz

iTrader: (24)

Ok, this is what I did. I went to o'reillys and bought a universal battery hold down kit (found it right under the battery chargers). Next time I'm in the store which will be this weekend, I'll take a picture of the kit. Total cost was alittle over $13. I did however have to cut the bolts down so I could close the hood and I cut the new battery tray to fit but it works really well!!

smokenssz

iTrader: (24)

I'll take another picture of it with a different phone if anyone would like cause man that thing looks terrible with my iPad lol!

ChrisRZ28

This is what I did and the battery will not move! Doesn't look great but the battery could not be more secure.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Still not sure why some of these cars seem to have an issue with this even when everything is proper. Just yesterday I hooked up my smart charger for the monthly storage charge on the '98 and was thinking about this thread. My battery hold down situation is 100% stock and I'm using an AC Delco professional series battery - there is no movement at all with a normal amount of force applied.

ChrisRZ28

It's been years, but if I recall, the piece that the bolt goes through that snugs up to the battery had cracked or broke (over tightened?) and wouldn't hold the battery securely anymore, so I had to do something different. Up until then it was fine. I also had some rust on the battery tray.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

The lip that holds the side of the battery on mine got weak and broke off, the piece that bolts down was fine.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I can understand having issues if the lip on the tray/overflow bottle combo is broken/cracked/somehow worn or damaged, and that's a common issue. What I don't understand is why some people claim to have fitment issues with correct batteries and trays/hold downs that they say are not broken. Just seems odd to me since the only time I ever had an issue in this regard on the four I have owned was when the lip began to crack on the '02 car. Otherwise they were all as tight as a drum....even resting my knee on the battery while reaching for plug #8 has never caused it to shift.

ragtop69

That whole battery tray/overflow tank arrangement is a monumentally stupid design. It needs some sort of strap over the battery to insure that the damn thing doesn't move around. I had a battery replaced by a local mechanic who said the one in the car was so weak he couldn't dependably start the car to do what he was hired to do. In the process the incompetent jerk snapped the bolt off that holds the securing cleat. He couldn't get the broken bolt out of the tray, so he just handed the car back to me with a loose battery. He mumbled something about ordering a new one that would take a week or more to get here and cost around $70. I told him I'd handle it. I went to the local Pick 'n Pull and found that every 4th generation F-body had the front ridge on the battery tray sheared off. I imagine that it must happen in sudden stops, which all of those cars had experienced. Anyway, I finally got the stupid bolt out of the tray in the car with the use of WD40, a couple of pair of vise grips and lots of cursing. BTW, besides the 2000 Z28 I also have a 2004 GMC Safari van that doesn't have a much more secure battery arrangement. At least it's not the top of the overflow tank.

Is the tech guy at the track supposed to be confirming that the car has the proscribed factory battery hold down or is he supposed to be wrenching around on it till it gives up? Sounds like the tech checker was a little out of his area of responsibility.

Nickmoore240sx

Relocate battery to rear and either make a box or buy one to secure it properly?

Pharcyde50

iTrader: (11)

I Got some angle iron and welded up a nice bracket. I'm running a deka etx14.