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Inner Tie Rod Caps

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Old 11-28-2009, 01:17 AM
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Default Inner Tie Rod Caps

I replaced my tie rods with some alleged "OE" replacements.
Went fairly smoothly besides having to saw off a stubborn nut. The only thing of real concern would be that the plastic "shock absorber" caps, (they sit on top of the end of the inner rod), don't fit snugly like they did on the ones that were previously on the car. In fact they're kinda loose. I could imagine after a while steering lock to lock, they'd fall off and get smashed on the rack against the tie rods.
My questions is, do you think i'll be fine if I took them off?
Old 11-28-2009, 06:55 AM
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This problem doesn't just effect F bodies, I've seen the same thing with two or threee different models now. As it's just a dust boot, you could take it off. The downside is that you'll end up replacing the tie rod ends again sooner than you would otherwise.
Old 11-28-2009, 07:08 AM
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Do not remove the bellows!

Road dirt will damage the seals on your rack.

If you don't want to change the tie rods, wrap some tape around the rod to build up the OD, then clamp it on tight.
Old 11-28-2009, 07:52 AM
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If you lack the proper clamping tools, just put a plastic zip tie around the boot.
Old 11-28-2009, 12:13 PM
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Here we go, I found a shbox picture of it.
It's #13 in this picture.
http://www.shbox.com/1/innertierod.jpg

The accordion boot i've got on the rod and rack head just fine. But that little plastic ring (shock dampener) doesn't fit real snug. If you look between where it's saying to loctite and where #12 is, #13 slides over the fat "head" of the inner tie rod.

To describe the plastic ring(#13), it looks and feels a lid for a spraypaint can with a hole in the top.
Old 11-28-2009, 01:19 PM
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Well that's a different story.

You can live without that piece. Just don't ram the steering at the L&R end stops.
Old 11-28-2009, 06:10 PM
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Cool alright. I kinda went off your idea of putting tape on it to get the OD a little higher and it worked great. The cap is real snug now.

On a side note, I took it to a alignment shop, he says it's way tighter (the play in the steering) than what it was, but there's still a little play. He suspects that it's the "rag joint".

Here's what $69.99 got me:

Alignment Meas:
LF Camber (Was: -0.6) (Now: -0.3)
LF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.2)
LF Toe (Was: -3/16in) (Now: 0in)

RF Camber (Was: 0.1) (Now: 0.9)
RF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.9)
RF Toe (Was: -5/32in) (Now: 0in)
Old 11-29-2009, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pointvirus
Alignment Meas:
LF Camber (Was: -0.6) (Now: -0.3)
LF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.2)
LF Toe (Was: -3/16in) (Now: 0in)

RF Camber (Was: 0.1) (Now: 0.9)
RF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.9)
RF Toe (Was: -5/32in) (Now: 0in)
RF caster and camber are way out. In fact, they went the wrong way with it. Cross camber should be no more than .5 Has the car ever been hit or run into a curb? Make them do it again, properly.
Old 11-29-2009, 11:06 AM
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/agree

you want more camber less caster on drivers, and less camber more caster on pass side to account for road crown.



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