Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

I didn't know where else to post this...

I recently had the entire exhaust replaced, pulled the Air Pump and plumbing and had the car tuned to get rid of some DTC codes from bad CATS/02 sensors. At the same time had the computer bumped to get some more power out of the car. I drove the car to and from work for 2-3 days, including rush hour, without a hitch. On day 4, I drive the car all the way to work which is about 45 minutes in stop and go traffic and about the last 5 minutes the car randomly increases rpm as if I were holding my foot on the gas pedal up to about 1500-2500 rpm and holds for a few seconds. Then comes back down to normal idle. immediately after, the car is trying to cut out like it's not getting enough gas and suddenly surge back up in an effort to make up for it, bucking all the way. I see the temp gauge drop to 0 and I see the Oil pressure gauge going all over the place. It happened on the way home to.I contacted the tuner and he thinks it might be the Collant Temp Sensor bc it was the only one unplugged. I am not so sure that is the case and I'm thinking it's more a tuning issue within the comp.

Any ideas? I am completely uncomfortable driving the car in this state.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

I discovered the CTS had been cracked at some point and some genius decided to super glue the connector back together so I thought, hmmm, maybe this is a cause to the problem. Ran up to Advanced Auto got a new CTS, installed and fired the car up. Terrible rattling, banging and racket coming from underneath the car so I shut the car off. Jacked the car up and looked underneath.....
















Ooooooof..... what in the WORLD has caused this? Is it even related to the initial symptoms from above. I honesly can't see how....

This chunk of the block broke out just above the oil pan right in front of the oil filter. I don't see ANYTHING that was touching it. Not even the headers bc there are no visible marks on them.

I'm depressed especially since I just spent about $3k getting the exhaust installed and having the car tuned...

msydow

my buddy smoked two ls1's. the first had 240,000 miles and the second was a craigslist special. both spun rod bearings and both would idle up and down when they started knocking. most likely what caused your idling problem. only thing that could come through the block like that would be a rod or rod cap. the factory rod bolts are a notrious weak point in these engines. how many miles on the car and did the tuner make any dyno pulls or check the air/fuel?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

127,xxx on the clock and the tuner didn't do dyno pulls, but he did "road test" while making adjustments to the "tables" at an abandoned airstrip. I'm not sure about air/fule ratio adjustments.

msydow

what was your air/fuel ratio? did he put a sensor in the tailpipe? if you have cats he should have installed a bung before them and put a sensor there. any of this done?

msydow

saw the details in your thread bout the exhaust. i had 135000 on mine with cam, fast 92/ptm 92 and full exhaust. never had any oil pressure problems or excessive material on the drain plug. do you regularly drive the **** out of the car. mine gets no slack from me and the bearings looked good when i pulled the motor. the original engine in my buddies car was driven by a lady for 230,000 miles before he got it and didnt make it long after that. i feel bad for you dude. i could hook you up with a block but its a hell of a long way from texas. i even have a couple short blocks i want to sell. anyway let me know what you come up with.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

I was not dring the **** out of the car at all, I babied the hell out of it. I don't know how he was doing trims.... All I know is the car is a driveway decoration at this point and I need to change that immeidatley if not sooner.

What am I looking at? At least a short block? Should I buy a crate LS1? Should I get a used LS1 from a totaled car? If I go with a used, I know I'm looking at a rebuild on the motor... what should be replaced while in the tear down mode?

Soooo many questions and variables it's sickening right now...

destroyer1362

Mine has a similar crack on the passenger side from my #8 hydro locking then blowing the piston out and into the oil pan. Any chance it was raining?https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-happened.html

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

It did rain like a mo fo here the last 2 days, but I don't see how it would've gotten in...?

destroyer1362

I'd look into the intake manifold for any water. Just pull off the intake and check. I heard if its hydrolocking that caused the failure insurance may cover it. Thats what I'm looking into (fingers crossed).
btw it looks like the water got into mine from around the injectors. Water was coming in through the shelf above the intake manifold.

msydow

up to your budget on which way to go to get it running again. you can buy used ls1's pretty cheap, but you never know what you are getting. you know you basically need a short block as long as nothing touched the heads. they are pretty reasonable assembled from places like scoggin-dickey or texas speed. the best thing to do is tear it down and see what is good and what is not so good. probably figure 4000-4500 to buy a new short block with forged rods and pistons or drop in ls6 crate motor for 3500 plus shipping from scoggin dickey. if you arent planning on spraying or anything i would go with the crate motor. all you would have to do is pull yours out and put this one in. install your intake and go. if you have any other questions you can email me since it goes straight to my phone. msydow711@gmail.com BTW did you get to work on it at all today?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm going to buy a new short block and a rebuild kit for my current LS1 that has 127k miles on. What do you think? I wish I could just buy a new crate LS1 outright, but I am in a crunch for saving for some pretty big things coming down the pike in the next year. What are your thoughts? What else should I get done going this route?

msydow

you would basically be building a new short block, so you can figure bout 800 for a bock, 1200-1500 for a rotating assemby, 250 for bearings, 700+ for machine work and assemby. then you need head bolts and gaskets, couple oil changes, and hopefully your heads arent messed up. it adds up really quick. the best thing to do would be to talk to a local machine shop and get some prices on assembly and block machining. i still think the 405hp ls6 motor would be the quickest and safest. oh, and i forgot 200 for oil pump and 150 for timing chain. here is the link to scoggin dickeys. http://sdparts.com/category/gm-perfo...5hp-ls6-engine
i left my email in one of the other replys. you are more than welcome to shoot me an email (they go straight to my phone). i have been in your shoes before. i know the 3500 price tag on the crate engine can give sticker shock, but a rebuild takes a lot more time and can wind up nickel and diming you to death. plus you could probably get it swapped in a long weekend with some beer and a couple buddies. let me know if i can help.