Pulsing/Flickering Int/Ext Lights.. I Have Replaced My Alt.
#1
Pulsing/Flickering Int/Ext Lights.. I Have Replaced My Alt.
Ok, yes I know this is a VERY COMMON problem.. I've done my fair share of searching and there are a lot of threads about this damn problem.. I've been having this problems since 10/2008..
I thought my problem was fixed last year when I replaced my alt. But yesterday I pulled the car out of stroage and the damn pulsing/flickering lights were back
Ok here is a little history about the car. My car is a 2002 Trans Am. It's not a DD at all. I have the STOCK radio (hu), speakers and amp.
I am running an ASP Crank UDP and that's it. No other pullies are on the car. I'm running a GoodYear Gator Back belt.. Belt has 10k miles on it.. Again summer weather only.. I took my AIR pump out in 2008 and got it tuned out as well
So moving forward.. In 5/2009 my buddy installed for me my wiring for my E-CutOut and the wiring to have manual fans. Before you guys ask about the wiring for the cutout switch and fans I will explain. The wiring for my fans, all I did was tap into the exsisting wiring that is controlled by the PCM. That is controlled by a relay. I really didn't do much to be honest. And the other thing that is wired up is my cutout which is tapped into my cigeratte lighter. In 9/2009 I ran the wiring for 3 pillar gauge pod. I'm getting the power from a fuse inside the car by the drivers side dash. I cannot remember what fuse it is.
Now moving forward once again. I replaced my OEM alt in 9/2010 with this alt: http://www.motorcityreman.com/98fi5.html
Ok now for the symptoms.. While driving during the night ALL lights int/ext will pulse and flicker. That includes the headlights, main gauge cluster, gauges in my gauge pod, HVAC and my radio. You can see the needles kinda dance back and forth, and when coming to a stop and putting the car in N (M6 car) my needle on voltmeter drops from like 15v-16v, and will drop down to maybe 10v-12v then will come back up to 'normal' range. Also when the needle drops the lights dim then and when the needle goes back to the 15v range the lights will brighten back up.....
As for a battery, I'm running an Optima Red Top, got it brand new 10/2009. I actually never used it in 2009 as I was putting my car in storage. It got used from 4/2010 - till 10/2010 (773 miles) the battery is BRAND NEW!!!
So I doubt it's my alt or the exciter wire. I am now thinking that it can be a tensioner pulley???? I'm really at a loss here. And this is driving me freaking nuts
Please some one HELP me........
I thought my problem was fixed last year when I replaced my alt. But yesterday I pulled the car out of stroage and the damn pulsing/flickering lights were back
Ok here is a little history about the car. My car is a 2002 Trans Am. It's not a DD at all. I have the STOCK radio (hu), speakers and amp.
I am running an ASP Crank UDP and that's it. No other pullies are on the car. I'm running a GoodYear Gator Back belt.. Belt has 10k miles on it.. Again summer weather only.. I took my AIR pump out in 2008 and got it tuned out as well
So moving forward.. In 5/2009 my buddy installed for me my wiring for my E-CutOut and the wiring to have manual fans. Before you guys ask about the wiring for the cutout switch and fans I will explain. The wiring for my fans, all I did was tap into the exsisting wiring that is controlled by the PCM. That is controlled by a relay. I really didn't do much to be honest. And the other thing that is wired up is my cutout which is tapped into my cigeratte lighter. In 9/2009 I ran the wiring for 3 pillar gauge pod. I'm getting the power from a fuse inside the car by the drivers side dash. I cannot remember what fuse it is.
Now moving forward once again. I replaced my OEM alt in 9/2010 with this alt: http://www.motorcityreman.com/98fi5.html
Ok now for the symptoms.. While driving during the night ALL lights int/ext will pulse and flicker. That includes the headlights, main gauge cluster, gauges in my gauge pod, HVAC and my radio. You can see the needles kinda dance back and forth, and when coming to a stop and putting the car in N (M6 car) my needle on voltmeter drops from like 15v-16v, and will drop down to maybe 10v-12v then will come back up to 'normal' range. Also when the needle drops the lights dim then and when the needle goes back to the 15v range the lights will brighten back up.....
As for a battery, I'm running an Optima Red Top, got it brand new 10/2009. I actually never used it in 2009 as I was putting my car in storage. It got used from 4/2010 - till 10/2010 (773 miles) the battery is BRAND NEW!!!
So I doubt it's my alt or the exciter wire. I am now thinking that it can be a tensioner pulley???? I'm really at a loss here. And this is driving me freaking nuts
Please some one HELP me........
Last edited by TORCHD 02 TA; 04-14-2011 at 07:45 PM.
#2
Ok with all the searching that I've done, and being that I'm nights I've read over 100 threads with this same problem..
So here are my conclusions:
-Some people have had this issue since day #1,
-Some people have gotten lucky by replacing the alt and battery and the problem goes away
-Some people have taken their car back to GM, getting a new alt/batt and replacing battery cables and still having the same problem
-Some people have replaces the wire coming off the battery to the PCM abd have gotten mixed results
-Some people replaced the exciter wire and have gotten mixed results
-Some people are saying clean and check the grounds
So I am at a lost here.... I have a brand new alt and a brand new optima battery yet my lights still flicker and pulse......
So here are my conclusions:
-Some people have had this issue since day #1,
-Some people have gotten lucky by replacing the alt and battery and the problem goes away
-Some people have taken their car back to GM, getting a new alt/batt and replacing battery cables and still having the same problem
-Some people have replaces the wire coming off the battery to the PCM abd have gotten mixed results
-Some people replaced the exciter wire and have gotten mixed results
-Some people are saying clean and check the grounds
So I am at a lost here.... I have a brand new alt and a brand new optima battery yet my lights still flicker and pulse......
#3
My 02 does the same thing, I'm not changing the alt until I get one just to try. Not gonna waste 100 dollars just to find its a PCM problem. I'd like to know what the pcm is sending to the alt. Mine pulses most of the time and does the voltage drop thing any time you take your foot off the gas below 30 mph. This problem also causes my headlights to burn out rather quickly, I only get 3-6 months out of a set befiore they burn out, filaments don't like flickering.
The fact that some people replace the alt and it fixes the problem makes me think its a alt problem and unfortuneatly even new alts come with the problem. Most likely a bad diode or poor regulator. I also think alot of this "new" alt stuff you buy is recycled old parts so its hard to get REAL new parts.
The fact that some people replace the alt and it fixes the problem makes me think its a alt problem and unfortuneatly even new alts come with the problem. Most likely a bad diode or poor regulator. I also think alot of this "new" alt stuff you buy is recycled old parts so its hard to get REAL new parts.
Last edited by O2Form; 04-14-2011 at 05:17 AM.
#4
My 02 does the same thing, I'm not changing the alt until I get one just to try. Not gonna waste 100 dollars just to find its a PCM problem. I'd like to know what the pcm is sending to the alt. Mine pulses most of the time and does the voltage drop thing any time you take your foot off the gas below 30 mph. This problem also causes my headlights to burn out rather quickly, I only get 3-6 months out of a set befiore they burn out, filaments don't like flickering.
The fact that some people replace the alt and it fixes the problem makes me think its a alt problem and unfortuneatly even new alts come with the problem. Most likely a bad diode or poor regulator. I also think alot of this "new" alt stuff you buy is recycled old parts so its hard to get REAL new parts.
The fact that some people replace the alt and it fixes the problem makes me think its a alt problem and unfortuneatly even new alts come with the problem. Most likely a bad diode or poor regulator. I also think alot of this "new" alt stuff you buy is recycled old parts so its hard to get REAL new parts.
What are we to do?
#5
ok, this may sound wierd but i had the same problem as you. just yesterday i figured it out. i too pulled my car out for the season with the same dancing volt meter and lights. its never had this happen before and the car only has 26000 miles on the clock. so i figured the alternator was going on it (from sitting). i replaced that and the battery at the same time since it was about 5 years old. the problem continued to haunt my car. ive checked all grounds and positive cables for corrosion/good connection and nothing. the one thing i did notice was that the belt tentioner pulley was jumping around quite a bit. well the check guage light came on yesterday because i needed gas so i filled it up. on my way home from the gas station (about a 15 mile drive) i was watching the guage as always and the problem has stopped!?! the pulley smoothed out too! i don't understand it, but it seems that running fresh gas has fixed the issue for me. thats just my experience. thought i'd share since yours sounds similar to mine. hope this helps.
#7
But I'm not sure if it is my alt.. I jsut swapped it out 8/2010 then the car pretty much went into storage until this past Tuesday when I pulled it out
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#8
ok, scratch that... just went out to the garage to start my car to confirm and its doing the same **** again! i'm getting realy frustrated!!! if you happen to figure out the issue please pm me TORCHD and i will do the same if i can get it right.
#10
I did a search yesterday regarding this subject.. Dude I came across hundred of threads and read the majority of them.. everyone seems to think bad alt and bad batt.. But that isn't the case.. It's something more...
Even some member took their cars to GM to get new alt/batt and battery cables and this still doesn't correct the problem
I'm seriously at a loss here
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
the only mod from stock is leaving off the rear alt bracket.......which is no loss
the only mod from stock is leaving off the rear alt bracket.......which is no loss
#14
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
the only mod from stock is leaving off the rear alt bracket.......which is no loss
the only mod from stock is leaving off the rear alt bracket.......which is no loss
#17
I have had this issue since my car hit 16000 miles. I am still on the factory alternator. I was planning on possibly an upgrade when changing the alternator. Has anyone fixed this problem permanently?
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
#19
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
got my truck alt for 40$ at the junk yard.......ya just cant beat that.......had it for a yr now on my DD.......if you can take out the stock alt ......you can swap in a truck alt with no pro......i also did the big 3 while i was at it........and i put in a new exciter wire plug.......the truck alt made the wire a little to tight for my taste......new plug had longer wire