strange (but minor) headlight issue after metal gear upgrade
#1
strange (but minor) headlight issue after metal gear upgrade
I recently replaced both headlight motor gears with the brass ones (that look more like the oem's with the rubber pieces that go between the shaft and gear). The kit came with new and supposedly better pieces of rubber.
Anyway, just now the driver side doesn't seem to go up as smooth as the passenger side initally (almost like it skips at some point). Going back down is not a problem, and then going back up right after that is fine also. It seems to happen if the headlight is down for a while.
I'd hate to break apart the cover that is now held with epoxy unless I have a reason to, but am curious to know what else to look for (I tried spraying some WD40 on the headlight lever that connects to the motor). I also checked the motor to see if it wobbles, and it doesn't. Thanks!
Anyway, just now the driver side doesn't seem to go up as smooth as the passenger side initally (almost like it skips at some point). Going back down is not a problem, and then going back up right after that is fine also. It seems to happen if the headlight is down for a while.
I'd hate to break apart the cover that is now held with epoxy unless I have a reason to, but am curious to know what else to look for (I tried spraying some WD40 on the headlight lever that connects to the motor). I also checked the motor to see if it wobbles, and it doesn't. Thanks!
#2
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Before you break in to the case, I'd suggest trying two things:
- Disconnect the linkage from the headlight to the motor and make sure it isn't binding. Run the motor to make sure its smooth without a load and that the door operates smoothly when not connected to the motor.
- Disconnect the linkage from the headlight to the motor and use the manual **** on the motor to turn the gear 180*. Then reattach the linkage and see if the hesitation happens in the same place.
- Disconnect the linkage from the headlight to the motor and make sure it isn't binding. Run the motor to make sure its smooth without a load and that the door operates smoothly when not connected to the motor.
- Disconnect the linkage from the headlight to the motor and use the manual **** on the motor to turn the gear 180*. Then reattach the linkage and see if the hesitation happens in the same place.
#3
Tried flipping the gear 180*, same result. Tried clamping the 4 tabs even though they seemed tight to begin with, same result.
Again, it seems to happen when I first raise the headlight. When I lower it, and then raise it back up, it's completely fine. It's just when it's been sitting down for a while. Passenger side is fine (and that's the side that had the stripped nylon gear).
Again, it seems to happen when I first raise the headlight. When I lower it, and then raise it back up, it's completely fine. It's just when it's been sitting down for a while. Passenger side is fine (and that's the side that had the stripped nylon gear).
#4
Thinking the worm gear is going.....so I am thinking of getting the Cardone replacements (the one that has screws for the serviceable cover). My current motors show some noticeable rust anyway.
Question -- should I definitely get the ones with screws and put the metal gears in it? Or will that just void the warranty?
Question -- should I definitely get the ones with screws and put the metal gears in it? Or will that just void the warranty?
#6
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Thinking the worm gear is going.....so I am thinking of getting the Cardone replacements (the one that has screws for the serviceable cover). My current motors show some noticeable rust anyway.
Question -- should I definitely get the ones with screws and put the metal gears in it? Or will that just void the warranty?
Question -- should I definitely get the ones with screws and put the metal gears in it? Or will that just void the warranty?
#7
Good point on the metal vs plastic since the swap is a lot easier now. But, the reason I was asking because if the gear strips on the motor, wouldn't that be covered under warranty as well (in that case, no real reason to go through the gear replacement even though it's easier with screws vs epoxy)? On the other hand, it's more convenient if I already have gears ready to go (vs waiting for replacement motor).
Last edited by Jeff 97 Formula; 11-04-2011 at 08:08 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Good point on the metal vs plastic since the swap is a lot easier now. But, the reason I was asking because if the gear strips on the motor, wouldn't that be covered under warranty as well (in that case, no real reason to go through the gear replacement even though it's easier with screws vs epoxy)? On the other hand, it's more convenient if I already have gears ready to go (vs waiting for replacement motor).
#11
Just installed the replacement motors. A bit slower than the originals, but MUCH smoother and quieter! These "aftermarket" motors fit perfectly too (and have screws to keep the service covers in place, so NO MORE EPOXY!!!)