DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Okay, brand new wires, plugs, distributor, and coil. ICM tested good on the tester at an autoparts store. All fuses are good, I've checked repeatedly. Wires are hooked to the right spot on the distributor and the right plugs and are attached well. Fuel pump spools up and I have pressure at the rail. Don't know exactly how much, gonna get a pressure checker from an autoparts store tomorrow, but when I pressed on the schraeder valve to check, fuel spurted out. Fuel pressure regulator isn't failing. Checked the vacuum line coming off it and no fuel or fuel smell. Battery was weak from sitting there for a week but I hooked up some jumper cables off my other car and when I would turn the key the engine would turn over. After I tried that, there was a distinct smell of fuel in the engine compartment. Ideas? I'm at wits end right now.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Have you verified that you have spark? I've seen those "testers" show a good ICM when it was actually bad. Check for spark, that is easy enough. Check your fuel pressure, that is easy enough then go from there.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Can I just pull the wire from the coil off the distributor to check or do I need to pull a plug and lay it on the block?

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

What's really killing me about it is that I drove it last Thursday night just fine and then 6 hours laters, I hopped in and it cranked but no-fired. Does that help diagnostics any?

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

lol.. check the opti...

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Brand new distributor, just put it on tonight...

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

I would pull a plug and check for spark. Also, can't remember on the LT1 cars but the ignition relays are notorious for going bad on LS1 cars. You can try swapping it with something like your A/C Relay just to see if it works.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Where is said relay located? My searches have been rather unfruitful.

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

under the hood, drivers side? under a 4x10" ish box with a butterfly nut on top...

on this pic, sitting against the air intake tube.. you can see the box in the corner...

RacingTiger03

iTrader: (3)

Also this one is simple and annoying.. make sure your "security" light isn't coming on on the dash.. if it is you have a VATS/key issue of some sort. Just throwing crazy possibilities out there for ya.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

5 relays I have are for coolant fans 1 & 2, air pump, abs, and a/c compressor.

Security light goes off after 2 or 3 seconds like it's supposed to. Battery is reading about 12.5V and when I turn the key, the starter spins the motor strong. Just tried a new ICM on it and same results.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Don't skip the basics. Did you end up testing fuel pressure and for spark?

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

No spark. Went through w/ my test light and multimeter and all the pulsing grounds, hot lets, ac voltages, all checked out.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Would the air intake and accompanying sensors not being attached have any bearing on it?

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

And that's no spark from the coil.

great421

iTrader: (1)

I know you seem to have addressed all issues, but (forgive my ignorance) what about the Opti extension harness ? Mine was at fault the first time I had Opti issues.

If the PCM doesn't get a high res or low res signal, it can't fire the coil. This happened to my 96 and it did not throw a code.

So, is the 4 pin end that goes deep in the Opti free of corrosion?

My original / stock extension harness was both corroded AND one of the 4 wires was damaged in-between the 2 ends, so you might look in that area. (Just a thought...)

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Checked the opti harness for voltage and continuity to ground where it plugged into the Opti, had 5V on a and b, 12V on C, and continuity to ground on D.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Okay, went about 15 pages deep in google and found a couple more things to check: Go over all my grounds and make sure they're tight and not corroded, someone seemed to have similar problems w/ a bad ignition switch (but looking into that, I don't think it's my problem b/c the car cranks and all dash lights work w/o fail and the key turns just fine), check connections at the PCM, maybe try it w/ the coil that was on there instead of the one I bought. I'm halfway ready to just sell it and invest the money in some property to rent out.

I need booze right now.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Status Update!: Okay, got out there and made a bastard opti-a Cardone distributor w/ a CMS Cap and Rotor. Put it on the car, charged up the battery, turned the key, and it is sputtering, trying to start. Tried it with new icm and coil, old coil and icm (seemed to work best), old icm and coil, and new coil and old icm, all to the same result. Any suggestions? Wires are plugged up in the right order and the plugs aren't fouled. Tried resetting the vats today, dunno if that helped. No corrosion on the connections and they're all tight. It could possibly be timing, I suppose, but the dowel pin is in the cam gear right.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

It lives! Rejoice, small people of the world. Turns out the problem was with the ICM Pigtail not connecting well to the ICM. So, anyone have a spare they'd like to donate? lol