Lt1 isn't running, about to get towed!!!
#1
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Okay, brand new wires, plugs, distributor, and coil. ICM tested good on the tester at an autoparts store. All fuses are good, I've checked repeatedly. Wires are hooked to the right spot on the distributor and the right plugs and are attached well. Fuel pump spools up and I have pressure at the rail. Don't know exactly how much, gonna get a pressure checker from an autoparts store tomorrow, but when I pressed on the schraeder valve to check, fuel spurted out. Fuel pressure regulator isn't failing. Checked the vacuum line coming off it and no fuel or fuel smell. Battery was weak from sitting there for a week but I hooked up some jumper cables off my other car and when I would turn the key the engine would turn over. After I tried that, there was a distinct smell of fuel in the engine compartment. Ideas? I'm at wits end right now.
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#10
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Also this one is simple and annoying.. make sure your "security" light isn't coming on on the dash.. if it is you have a VATS/key issue of some sort. Just throwing crazy possibilities out there for ya.
#11
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Security light goes off after 2 or 3 seconds like it's supposed to. Battery is reading about 12.5V and when I turn the key, the starter spins the motor strong. Just tried a new ICM on it and same results.
#16
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I know you seem to have addressed all issues, but (forgive my ignorance) what about the Opti extension harness ? Mine was at fault the first time I had Opti issues.
If the PCM doesn't get a high res or low res signal, it can't fire the coil. This happened to my 96 and it did not throw a code.
So, is the 4 pin end that goes deep in the Opti free of corrosion?
My original / stock extension harness was both corroded AND one of the 4 wires was damaged in-between the 2 ends, so you might look in that area. (Just a thought...)
If the PCM doesn't get a high res or low res signal, it can't fire the coil. This happened to my 96 and it did not throw a code.
So, is the 4 pin end that goes deep in the Opti free of corrosion?
My original / stock extension harness was both corroded AND one of the 4 wires was damaged in-between the 2 ends, so you might look in that area. (Just a thought...)
#18
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Okay, went about 15 pages deep in google
and found a couple more things to check: Go over all my grounds and make sure they're tight and not corroded, someone seemed to have similar problems w/ a bad ignition switch (but looking into that, I don't think it's my problem b/c the car cranks and all dash lights work w/o fail and the key turns just fine), check connections at the PCM, maybe try it w/ the coil that was on there instead of the one I bought. I'm halfway ready to just sell it and invest the money in some property to rent out. ![Bomb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bomb.gif)
I need booze right now.
![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
![Bomb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bomb.gif)
I need booze right now.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
#19
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Status Update!: Okay, got out there and made a bastard opti-a Cardone distributor w/ a CMS Cap and Rotor. Put it on the car, charged up the battery, turned the key, and it is sputtering, trying to start.
Tried it with new icm and coil, old coil and icm (seemed to work best), old icm and coil, and new coil and old icm, all to the same result. Any suggestions? Wires are plugged up in the right order and the plugs aren't fouled. Tried resetting the vats today, dunno if that helped. No corrosion on the connections and they're all tight. It could possibly be timing, I suppose, but the dowel pin is in the cam gear right.
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