mcasas02Hawk

Last time I saw a thread on oil the majority said they would use Mobil 1. So i went to check out the oil and saw Mobil 1 with alot of options. They have 5,000, 7,500, 15,000 with Motor Oil, Synthetic Blend, and full synthetic. What is the best to use?

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

There are a ton of oil threads. Here are two that were very recent. I would not use those oils you list. If I were to use any Mobil 1 it would me the truck/suv stuff.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/451253-german-made-castrol-syntec-0w-30-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/508397-yes-another-oil-poll.html

SSmith

I use Mobil 1 5W-30
Change it about 7500 miles or every two years which ever comes first

Wyoming T/A

iTrader: (1)

i like to change mine 2500 to 3000 oil is cheap compared to engine work,my 2 cents

natronathon

eh... i dont agree with the above....


Use full synthetic, Its good stuff. Get the 0W-40. Very good viscosity (how well it flows) and still a thick oil, so it will protect and coat your internals better. My oil pressure is never below 35 psi, and I no longer have any valve train clicking anymore!

BAT TA

iTrader: (15)

Mobile one 10w30 here, changed every 3,000 miles.

Wyoming T/A

iTrader: (1)

remember ,oil does not wear out it gets contaminated,syn or not it still gets dirty

SSmith

I currently have almost 18,000 miles on my 02 SS.
I mentioned 7500 miles between oil changes or every two years which ever comes first.

I wanted to see if that damn oil change light really worked. Well it does work. The oil change light came on last week. It took right at 7500 miles for the light to come on. The last time I changed it was at 10,000 miles on May of 2004. So the Oil Life System works! I use regular Mobil 1 5w30. I have high oil pressure (40+psi) using it so I really don't want to use 10w30.

I will be changing my oil every 5,000 miles from now on.

lucky

The oil doesnt wear out but the additive package in any oil is eventually consumed.You can filter it forever to remove the contaminents but you need to change it to refresh the additive package.
A UOA for TBN will also reveal an oil thats ready to dump.
Ciao

Domestic Demon

iTrader: (1)

I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30, and change it every 5,000 miles.

The only benefit to the 15K oil is the longer oil change interval, and you would need a filter thats good until 15K to go with it as well (unless you change the filter twice during the 15K).

I suggest sticking to regular Mobil 1 Synthetic, unless you do an extreme amount of miles and require a longer oil change interval.

fire_boy06

I've heard that the Truck and SUV was recommended to use...But WHY is the truck and SUV oil better to use? I've always heard that it was recommended but i could never find out just why. And is it 10w30?

Also I was wondering if changing the kind of oil you use is bad for your engine...Do you have to do anything to your oil pan if you change brands of oil? Like go from mobil 1 to castro to royal purple to valvoline? Would changing oil brands like that at every change hurt your car?

angel71rs

M1 30 weight oils tend to be on the thin side of the scale. Offers less protection at operating temps, so used oil analysis shows more wear materials. German Castrol 30 is thicker, offers greater protection. The T&SUV is 5W-40, but is thin for a 40 weight, also has a good additive package. A lot of good UOAs on it.

Problem is Mobil quit making it. I used to buy the 5 qt containers cheap at Wally world. Supposedly the new Turbo Diesel 5w-40 is the same thing in a different package, but I don't know how availability/price on it will be.

I'm going to try and get German Castrol from Autozone for my next change, but I've never been able to find it locally, just the US made stuff. If not, I'm going to try the Turbo Diesel, if not M1 0w-40, another oil that is supposed to be good.


And no, you don't have to do anything to your engine to change types of oils, won't hurt your engine, unless you go to a not so good oil (hint: search: shear AND royal).

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

Yup, What Angel71rs said ^^^^

Here is my story which I have posted before..

I used to use M1 5W-30 in every car I've owned. I swore my the stuff for 20+ years. I even used to use it in my leased vehicles. When I got my LS1 I changed the oil to M1 5W-30 and noticed right away that my oil pressure was down a bit once warm and that I seemed to use a quart every 1500 miles or so. I also noticed after a few weeks that may car started sounded like a sewing machine. I never suspected it was the oil. I found this board and started reading as much as I could about LS1 engines. Based on Patman's posts I went out and got some of the German Castrol and changed my oil. Within a few miles the engine got much more quiet. The oil pressure was back up at temperature and after 1500 miles it appeared that I lost no oil. All coincidence? Maybe but ever since I have not gone back to M1 5W-30 and I still have no oil consumption, no valve train noise (some piston slap when cold) and my pressure is always at the mid point even at idle when at temperature.

I also had the last batch of GC tested at blackstone labs. It came back as virtually virgin oil under every level of tested element and that was after a full year (about 2500 miles) in the car. I now will only change my oil every 2 years based on the tests.

That is why I will no longer use M1 5W-30 in my LS1.
You're experience may be different but I would suggest everyone at least try the GC if you can get it at least once.

mcasas02Hawk

I went to autozone this morning and found about 20-25 bottle of gc in the new bottle. They only had one old bottle. The following list the difference betwen old bottle and new bottle


Old Bottle

1.Old bottle is a shorter and fatter
2. Has Europeon formula printed on the front
3. Formula specially formulated to meet the neeeds of high performance engines is printed on the back.
4.Also printed on the back is Made in Germany for sale only in the Americas.

New Bottle

1.Its a taller slimmer bottle.
2.The newer bottle doesnt have europeon formula printed on the front.
3. Improved formula specially formulated to meet the neeeds of high performance engines is printed on the back.
4.Also printed on the back is Made in Germany for sale only in the Americas.

Out performs all leading motor oils is printed on the front of both bottles which no other castrol oil bottle has.

One question. Does GC only come in 0w-30.?

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

Yes. It only comes in 0w-30.

Toxic Texan

I work for BP, who owns Castrol, and all we use out here in our machinery is mobil. You do the math.

fire_boy06

What does the 0w30 mean? I know it has something to do with viscocity but could you please explain what the 0w and the 30 mean?

Would running the GC 0w30 affect the lifespan of the ls1?

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

I believe GC beat out Mobil 1 on tons of UOA's on bobistheoilguy.com, just fyi

angel71rs

Simplified, 0w is how quick it flows when cold. Lower is good so it flows to your engine internals and starts protecting them at startup ASAP. 30 means how thick it is at operating temp. Thinner lowers drag, gives more hp and mileage, but tends to protect internals less. A lot of newer engines specify using 20 weight oil, but I think that's for auto manufacturers to maximize mpg. I wouldn't ever run a 20 weight.

Will running GC affect your LS1s lifespan? Yeah, it would probably help extend it as much as any oil possibly could.

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

No one said M1 is not good oil. All that we are saying is that M1 5W-30 is not a great oil for the LS1. LS1 wants a true 30 weight oil at temperature and tests have shown that M1 5W-30 is closer to a 20 weight oil at temperature and that causes issues with the LS1 engine.