How To Seafoam Your Car
03-02-2014, 02:55 PM
#1141
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I just sprayed some of the seafoam deep creep into my throttle body/intake manifold. Let it idle a bit and gave it some tiny revs and then took it for a drive. Possibly just a placebo effect since I was hoping to be able to tell a difference but I noticed significantly improved throttle response. I hit the gas and it reacts and takes off quicker than before I sprayed it in there. Put a can into my gas tank as well. A couple weeks ago put a bottle of motor honey into my crank case which seems to have stopped my car from consuming a quart of oil a month... So I didn't try putting any seafoam in there but I'll probably try it in the future. We'll see if my mpg improves this tank with the seafoam in the fuel system. Overall I'm very satisfied so far. Still gota try spraying it into the PCV inlet for the top end.
03-28-2015, 07:57 PM
#1142
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I put half a can in the crankcase, other half in the brake booster line, let it sit for 20 mins, then started it and it only had a tiny blue cloud of smoke when i first started it up. After that didn't smoke at all. Car only has 55k on it, guess the engine just wasn't that dirty at all? Or does the deep creep the culprit that causes it to "smoke" i didn't have any on hand, so didn't spray anything in the throttle body.
04-13-2015, 04:09 PM
#1143
I had good results from this product. Although after putting it in the oil I was a bit shocked to see yellowish orange deposits on the inside of the cap and top of the filler neck. Before I heard about deep creep I used Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner but didn't get much smoke out of the girl, despite being up well over 100k. Better mileage and throttle response for a nominal investment of time and money. This thread was very helpful.
04-15-2015, 06:20 PM
#1144
hahahaha...this friggin thread......still showing people how to destroy their engine with SeaFoam into the top end.....
Smoke show....smoke show.....LOL
Funny ****.....
****I guess after someone posts in this thread that they hydralocked their LS1.....then this thread will be removed from the forum. Reactive instead of proactive.......gotta love it.....****
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Smoke show....smoke show.....LOL
Funny ****.....
****I guess after someone posts in this thread that they hydralocked their LS1.....then this thread will be removed from the forum. Reactive instead of proactive.......gotta love it.....****
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04-16-2015, 05:19 AM
#1146
Hope it doesn't happen.......but I'm just waiting for a hydralock............
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04-16-2015, 02:11 PM
#1147
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Before I knew any better, I did the "seafoam mod" after reading all these wonderful testimonies. My SES light came on within 10 minutes of driving it, and pulled up a sh!tload of codes.
But hey, at least I'm making 50+ HP and getting double the MPG now, so I guess the Seafoam mod was worth it
But hey, at least I'm making 50+ HP and getting double the MPG now, so I guess the Seafoam mod was worth it
07-22-2015, 08:37 PM
#1150
I ordered the MCCC stuff and am gonna do that this weekend.
I did the OPs steps before reading just because I felt like it anyways. Only ran about 30 miles on the oil and the top end didn't smoke all too much, but I just googled seafoaming and it was the first link that came up.
I did the OPs steps before reading just because I felt like it anyways. Only ran about 30 miles on the oil and the top end didn't smoke all too much, but I just googled seafoaming and it was the first link that came up.
07-20-2016, 05:14 PM
#1151
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FOR THE MILLIONTH TIME.......STOP USING Sea Foam for the top end. Its dangerous. Its a friggin liquid. You could bend a rod or worse if you get too much LIQUID pooled in any one cylinder.
For about the same price, go to any Dodge/Chrysler dealership and get a REAL foam product that works 100 times better than Sea Foam ever can.
Jeezzzzz.
Don't have to mess with that pain in the *** brake booster line and risk cracking the port, they get old and dry-rotted over time. Plus, NEWS FLASH, the brake booster line doesn't get Sea Foam into every cylinder, only the back 3-4 cylinders. Proof fothat is: When you dump the remianing amont in to stall the engine, sometimes it doesn't stall it. Most of the time it sputters and kicks to stay on. WHY....becauzse its just flooding the back 3-4 cylinders and the others are still firing to keep the engine going. If ALL 8 cylinders were getting liquid in them, it would stall instantly the first time, every time. The MOPAR stuff, which is actually a FOAM, designed for top end cleaning, floods every cylinder and expands while its sitting in there. It contains alot of air in the foam so there's no chance of hydralocking any one cylinder. It will compress when you start it.
Use that clear hose. Keep it attached to the port on the intake, remove the end from the PCV valve and spray the entire can in there while you're engine is idling. That hose will suck every drop while you're spraying it in. Then have a friend turn the engine off the second you feel/see the can run out. The foam expands while its sitting in there and cleans every inch. Let it sit for 30 minutes and then go start it up, let it idle for about 3-5 minutes, then go drive it.
Below is how simple it is to spray the foam Mopar stuff in:
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For about the same price, go to any Dodge/Chrysler dealership and get a REAL foam product that works 100 times better than Sea Foam ever can.
Jeezzzzz.
Don't have to mess with that pain in the *** brake booster line and risk cracking the port, they get old and dry-rotted over time. Plus, NEWS FLASH, the brake booster line doesn't get Sea Foam into every cylinder, only the back 3-4 cylinders. Proof fothat is: When you dump the remianing amont in to stall the engine, sometimes it doesn't stall it. Most of the time it sputters and kicks to stay on. WHY....becauzse its just flooding the back 3-4 cylinders and the others are still firing to keep the engine going. If ALL 8 cylinders were getting liquid in them, it would stall instantly the first time, every time. The MOPAR stuff, which is actually a FOAM, designed for top end cleaning, floods every cylinder and expands while its sitting in there. It contains alot of air in the foam so there's no chance of hydralocking any one cylinder. It will compress when you start it.
Use that clear hose. Keep it attached to the port on the intake, remove the end from the PCV valve and spray the entire can in there while you're engine is idling. That hose will suck every drop while you're spraying it in. Then have a friend turn the engine off the second you feel/see the can run out. The foam expands while its sitting in there and cleans every inch. Let it sit for 30 minutes and then go start it up, let it idle for about 3-5 minutes, then go drive it.
Below is how simple it is to spray the foam Mopar stuff in:
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07-20-2016, 07:16 PM
#1153
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07-21-2016, 01:16 AM
#1154
I pour a full can of Sea Foam liquid into an 1/8 tank of gas and run it almost dry before I fill up the tank. I do this every 3-4 months. Never had an issue with dirty injectors.
Top End cleaners cannot reach the injectors.....the only way to the injectors is through the fuel system.
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03-21-2017, 10:31 AM
#1155
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question. I'm planning on changing my oil in approximately one month.
Would it be ideal to pour a bottle of seafoam into my crankcase with it's current oil? Or does it have to be new oil for it to make great use.
The only reason why I'm tentative to pour now is cause I don't plan on running current oil more than 250 miles.
Would it be ideal to pour a bottle of seafoam into my crankcase with it's current oil? Or does it have to be new oil for it to make great use.
The only reason why I'm tentative to pour now is cause I don't plan on running current oil more than 250 miles.
03-24-2017, 02:02 PM
#1156
I'm planning on changing my oil in approximately one month.
Would it be ideal to pour a bottle of seafoam into my crankcase with it's current oil? Or does it have to be new oil for it to make great use.
The only reason why I'm tentative to pour now is cause I don't plan on running current oil more than 250 miles.
Would it be ideal to pour a bottle of seafoam into my crankcase with it's current oil? Or does it have to be new oil for it to make great use.
The only reason why I'm tentative to pour now is cause I don't plan on running current oil more than 250 miles.
Do it on the day you change your oil.
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03-29-2017, 02:33 PM
#1157
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how long before starting car??? I'll be cleaning my oil. I understand instructions on the amount of seafoam to use, I also understand to pour slowly or a little at a time.
My question is:
After pouring seafoam into my crankcase while the car is cold. How long do I wait till I can start car?
My question is:
After pouring seafoam into my crankcase while the car is cold. How long do I wait till I can start car?
03-30-2017, 01:31 AM
#1158
Then AFTER its hot, park it in the driveway, keep it running, pour the entire can all at once into the oil fill cap, no need to pour it in slowly, then wait 5 minutes at idle. Thats it.
Drain it. Then add 4 qrts of cheap oil and run it for 5 minutes. Then drain it again. Then change the filter and add the good new oil.
-----Oh, I'm very picky.......I personally put my front end up on ramps to change my oil. I do it with my front end at the bottom of the driveway so when my front end is up on ramps the car is almost horizontal......so oil does not get stuck in the back area of the oil pan from the car being on an incline. And you can get a good half qrt that can stay in there if the front of the car is pointing upward on a driveway that is inclined a lot, and Seafoam will be left behind.
Thats why the oil change places keep the car level when they drain them....it gets more oil out.
BUT.....Then I use my floor jack to slightly jack up the passengers side so the oil will drain better and more completely from the oil pan drain port on the drivers side of the oil pan
----Also, I actually like to use GUNK Engine Flush better. Its a bigger metal can, more chemical, looks like a miniature 50 gallon drum. You have to pop holes in the top with a screwdriver. At least the cans they sell in South Florida are like that. They are twice the amount of chemical than a can of Seafoam. But SeaFoam does well too.
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Last edited by LS6427; 03-30-2017 at 01:42 AM.
