Finished FAST 102 install. Have some issues
11-01-2010, 12:26 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Finished FAST 102 install. Have some issues I just finished my FAST 102 install after almost a week of downtime. Aside from being pissed off that the install was more difficult than I thought, several things broke along the way. Namely, the cruise control clip for the TB, the oil pressure switch (had to wait 2days to receive), the IACV, and possibly the MAP sensor. I have a few pending issues.
1). The map is only displaying 95 & 100kPa, and so I cant tune. A new one has been ordered. DTC shows p0108(MAP sensor high voltage). Should I assume that the map is now faulty, even though I dont know how the hell that could have happened? I drilled the map port with slightly less than a 3/8 bit (the folks at FAST suggested using a 3/8). Why did I use a smaller bit? Because it fit snuggly. I was afraid that if I used a 3/8, the bore would be too wide. I had the top layer of the FAST open, and could see the center(hole) of the map clearly inside the manifold and unobstructed.
I read that maps could indicate higher if there is a vaccum leak. If I have a leak that bad, then I shouldnt even be able to idle or drive, right?
I removed the EGR and built a plate for the exhaust port, but didnt delete it from the ECU.
2). The IACV isnt responding. I have to hold the throttle open during initial starts. A new one is on its way. When I first cranked it on thursday, she turned over, but would shut off, indicating a bad IACV. I pulled the IACV out and cranked. Well, the fucken thing shot out and hit the floor. wtf? I put it back in, and its not extending, and not definitely not working.
3). I cant find my PCV valve. Its like it never existed. Correct me if wrong, but the PCV valve should be located on the passenger side nipple on the front of the manifold, right behind the TB. It wasnt there on the old manifold, nor is the FAST manifold capable of accepting a PCV. So is the PCV encased somewhere in the Y hose that connects to the location I just mentioned above?
I ran into an issue with the manifold, where it ended up resting on the waterpump housing. Why? I dont know! But it was close enough that I assumed that the ports sealed properly. Btw, I used thread lock. Then came the 3 bolt TB adapter and TB. The adapter wouldnt line up, because of a bolt notch on the waterpump housing. Rather than grind that notch down at 11pm, I started cutting the TB adapter. First a clean 1/4" slice at the bottom that was sanded down, and then a v groove was cut out to accommodate the waterpump notch.
Later, when the car wouldnt stay running, I took off the TB adapter and cut/bored a large hole in the upper right quadrant for the IACV to have access to the manifold. Why? Because the IACV has access via the stock TB, to the stock manifold. It was later that I realized that the IACV was bad.
Any help on the aforementioned issues would be appreciated. For now, the car drives well and feels solid on pulls, aside from the rough idle. I think I hear a slight vacuum leak, which I simply thought was from the larger internal diameter of the manifold. I'll listen more attentively later today.
1). The map is only displaying 95 & 100kPa, and so I cant tune. A new one has been ordered. DTC shows p0108(MAP sensor high voltage). Should I assume that the map is now faulty, even though I dont know how the hell that could have happened? I drilled the map port with slightly less than a 3/8 bit (the folks at FAST suggested using a 3/8). Why did I use a smaller bit? Because it fit snuggly. I was afraid that if I used a 3/8, the bore would be too wide. I had the top layer of the FAST open, and could see the center(hole) of the map clearly inside the manifold and unobstructed.
I read that maps could indicate higher if there is a vaccum leak. If I have a leak that bad, then I shouldnt even be able to idle or drive, right?
I removed the EGR and built a plate for the exhaust port, but didnt delete it from the ECU.
2). The IACV isnt responding. I have to hold the throttle open during initial starts. A new one is on its way. When I first cranked it on thursday, she turned over, but would shut off, indicating a bad IACV. I pulled the IACV out and cranked. Well, the fucken thing shot out and hit the floor. wtf? I put it back in, and its not extending, and not definitely not working.
3). I cant find my PCV valve. Its like it never existed. Correct me if wrong, but the PCV valve should be located on the passenger side nipple on the front of the manifold, right behind the TB. It wasnt there on the old manifold, nor is the FAST manifold capable of accepting a PCV. So is the PCV encased somewhere in the Y hose that connects to the location I just mentioned above?
I ran into an issue with the manifold, where it ended up resting on the waterpump housing. Why? I dont know! But it was close enough that I assumed that the ports sealed properly. Btw, I used thread lock. Then came the 3 bolt TB adapter and TB. The adapter wouldnt line up, because of a bolt notch on the waterpump housing. Rather than grind that notch down at 11pm, I started cutting the TB adapter. First a clean 1/4" slice at the bottom that was sanded down, and then a v groove was cut out to accommodate the waterpump notch.
Later, when the car wouldnt stay running, I took off the TB adapter and cut/bored a large hole in the upper right quadrant for the IACV to have access to the manifold. Why? Because the IACV has access via the stock TB, to the stock manifold. It was later that I realized that the IACV was bad.
Any help on the aforementioned issues would be appreciated. For now, the car drives well and feels solid on pulls, aside from the rough idle. I think I hear a slight vacuum leak, which I simply thought was from the larger internal diameter of the manifold. I'll listen more attentively later today.
11-01-2010, 12:57 PM
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Staging Lane
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I can't post pics until tonight.
I deliberately decided to leave the waterpump alone. In retrospect, maybe that wasn't the best idea. My concern was that if I ground it down, I would grind the top bolt down, and I don't know what the result of that would be.
Anyone with knowledge or input on the map issue or PCV valve?
I deliberately decided to leave the waterpump alone. In retrospect, maybe that wasn't the best idea. My concern was that if I ground it down, I would grind the top bolt down, and I don't know what the result of that would be.
Anyone with knowledge or input on the map issue or PCV valve?
11-01-2010, 01:55 PM
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I don't understand aftermarket manufactuers sometimes. You would expect, when you pay $800+ for an intake, that you wouldnt have to worry about fabbing anything. Granted, its not a difficult task, but still.
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11-02-2010, 11:58 AM
#8
Staging Lane
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2 of the 3 problems have been solved.
1). Last night in the frigid cold, I decided to reach back there to unplug and replug the map. If not to resolve the issue by replugging it, I wanted to at least see if I could replace the map without taking the manifold off. That doesnt appear feasible.
The culprit was discovered! The map is broken (tip separated from the rest of the body). Why? Clearance. There simply isnt any back there. So the map ended up hitting the firewall and broke while the manifold was being positioned. Even with the manifold seated properly, the map doesnt have room at that angle. The plug portion was facing the passenger side. I'll have to rotate it 180 degrees so that the plug is on the driver side. And if that doesnt clear, then I'll burn the manifold.
3). I dont have the adapter hose for the PCV valve. The last owner must have thought it wasnt necessary. Moron!
The IACV and MAP sensor should be coming in on thursday. I think I should be able to take the manifold off, replace the map, grind down the waterpump, and replace the FAST102, all before morning, when I have to take a trip.
PS: The map tip is still sitting in the FAST. Theres no way to get it out unless the manifold comes off. I figure that after a number of nasty pulls to 135 and long cruises at 120, if it hasnt fallen in, it wont for the next 2days. <fingers crossed>
1). Last night in the frigid cold, I decided to reach back there to unplug and replug the map. If not to resolve the issue by replugging it, I wanted to at least see if I could replace the map without taking the manifold off. That doesnt appear feasible.
The culprit was discovered! The map is broken (tip separated from the rest of the body). Why? Clearance. There simply isnt any back there. So the map ended up hitting the firewall and broke while the manifold was being positioned. Even with the manifold seated properly, the map doesnt have room at that angle. The plug portion was facing the passenger side. I'll have to rotate it 180 degrees so that the plug is on the driver side. And if that doesnt clear, then I'll burn the manifold.
3). I dont have the adapter hose for the PCV valve. The last owner must have thought it wasnt necessary. Moron!
The IACV and MAP sensor should be coming in on thursday. I think I should be able to take the manifold off, replace the map, grind down the waterpump, and replace the FAST102, all before morning, when I have to take a trip.
PS: The map tip is still sitting in the FAST. Theres no way to get it out unless the manifold comes off. I figure that after a number of nasty pulls to 135 and long cruises at 120, if it hasnt fallen in, it wont for the next 2days. <fingers crossed>
11-04-2010, 03:51 PM
#12
If I would have known my FAST as well as everyone elses were this big of a headache, I wouldn't have bought one. I was one of the first to buy one, before the threads had been started so I had no help.
My MAP came unplugged also... I have TRIED AND TRIED to plug it back in, you have to pull the intake to get it back in.
That or you can install it in the front..
My MAP came unplugged also... I have TRIED AND TRIED to plug it back in, you have to pull the intake to get it back in.
That or you can install it in the front..
11-08-2010, 12:01 PM
#18
Staging Lane
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Well, mine's done. Thursday night. Worked till 2.30am. As my precalculus teacher used to say a long time ago, "its not hard, its time consuming".
It took a fraction of the time. Maybe an hour to get it off, about 30mins to grind down the waterpump(because I was using a pathetic sander, not grinding wheel), and maybe an hour and a half to bolt back on. Yet it took me 5hours altogether. Somehow between dinner and reconnecting the nitrous lines, lid(which was refusing to sit properly over the filter), maf(which isnt being used but couldnt be removed because I didnt have a coupling to take its place), it took a lot longer than it should have. I wouldnt say it was relatively easy the 2nd time around, but it was a lot easier. I already knew what tools to use for various bolts and what angle to tackle it. The passenger side bolt by the trans dipstick is the worst thing ever. That alone took over 30mins. I can only access it with an allen wrech. My trans/dipstick arent stock, so maybe thats why it was easier.
Chon79, in order to access the driver side rear 2 bolts with oem LS2 rails, you have to use a socket/allen key combo. I'll get a pic up later along with the proper size.
I was fortunate that the broken tip of the MAP didnt fall into the manifold. I was able to get it out, and plug in a new Delphi map(connector facing up) within seconds. I also replaced the IACV. And then I noticed something that really ruffled my feathers. The PCV line was chewed up. When I say chewed up, I mean it was bad. There was maybe a 1/2" hole in the Y connector, and further down, the connector was clogged with gunk. I scraped out as much as I could and put in a new PCV valve. I taped up the hole until I can get a new one. Now here's the strange thing: The PCV valve was located at the Y connector (which is behind the manifold), rather than on the passenger side manifold front.
So she drives pretty well, albeit, not as powerful as she was last week when map was only reading 100 and 105, and burning through fuel like it was free. I haven't opened her up just yet. A run to 130 this morning, but map and throttle wise, she hasnt been opened up. There is little to no knock, even though I havent tuned since the swap. I guess my old tune(2weeks old) works pretty well. Ironically, I had knock in various places before the swap.
I only have 1 regret, and that is not dyno-ing before the swap. So for now, the only issue left is replacing the PCV system, replacing the cruise control adaptor or cutting off the cruise control line altogether (I dont see the point of cruise control). I also have to look into getting another STB, since my BMR bar doesn't clear the FAST. In other news, the FAST logo started faiding. meh, whatever.
It took a fraction of the time. Maybe an hour to get it off, about 30mins to grind down the waterpump(because I was using a pathetic sander, not grinding wheel), and maybe an hour and a half to bolt back on. Yet it took me 5hours altogether. Somehow between dinner and reconnecting the nitrous lines, lid(which was refusing to sit properly over the filter), maf(which isnt being used but couldnt be removed because I didnt have a coupling to take its place), it took a lot longer than it should have. I wouldnt say it was relatively easy the 2nd time around, but it was a lot easier. I already knew what tools to use for various bolts and what angle to tackle it. The passenger side bolt by the trans dipstick is the worst thing ever. That alone took over 30mins. I can only access it with an allen wrech. My trans/dipstick arent stock, so maybe thats why it was easier.
Chon79, in order to access the driver side rear 2 bolts with oem LS2 rails, you have to use a socket/allen key combo. I'll get a pic up later along with the proper size.
I was fortunate that the broken tip of the MAP didnt fall into the manifold. I was able to get it out, and plug in a new Delphi map(connector facing up) within seconds. I also replaced the IACV. And then I noticed something that really ruffled my feathers. The PCV line was chewed up. When I say chewed up, I mean it was bad. There was maybe a 1/2" hole in the Y connector, and further down, the connector was clogged with gunk. I scraped out as much as I could and put in a new PCV valve. I taped up the hole until I can get a new one. Now here's the strange thing: The PCV valve was located at the Y connector (which is behind the manifold), rather than on the passenger side manifold front.
So she drives pretty well, albeit, not as powerful as she was last week when map was only reading 100 and 105, and burning through fuel like it was free. I haven't opened her up just yet. A run to 130 this morning, but map and throttle wise, she hasnt been opened up. There is little to no knock, even though I havent tuned since the swap. I guess my old tune(2weeks old) works pretty well. Ironically, I had knock in various places before the swap.
I only have 1 regret, and that is not dyno-ing before the swap. So for now, the only issue left is replacing the PCV system, replacing the cruise control adaptor or cutting off the cruise control line altogether (I dont see the point of cruise control). I also have to look into getting another STB, since my BMR bar doesn't clear the FAST. In other news, the FAST logo started faiding. meh, whatever.
