Right part (oxygen sensor) for header install?
#1
Right part (oxygen sensor) for header install?
Hi everyone,
I'm finally getting around to putting together a header package from Texas Speed and have been told to not bother trying to get the old O2's out since mine are stock and likely permanently in place.
So can someone confirm this is the correct replacement part (I need 2 I assume):
Thank you in advance,
justin
I'm finally getting around to putting together a header package from Texas Speed and have been told to not bother trying to get the old O2's out since mine are stock and likely permanently in place.
So can someone confirm this is the correct replacement part (I need 2 I assume):
Thank you in advance,
justin
#3
Thank you for the reply! So with the 13111's I would not need to purchase O2 extensions? That would make the 13111's cheaper then the ones I originally posted which would be great!
#7
It's not mine! woo hoo!
iTrader: (7)
I personally prefer the ACDelco Corvette sensor 213-810. It's currently $10 more than the Bosch, but I find piece of mind with a GM-spec electronic part.
Forget header bolts -- go with studs. It makes hanging the header/gasket so much easier. You can find them on eBay for around $30-$40. FWIW, ARP are $100+
Forget header bolts -- go with studs. It makes hanging the header/gasket so much easier. You can find them on eBay for around $30-$40. FWIW, ARP are $100+
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#9
Demonspeed, are they really that necessary? I don't want to cheap out but that is like 10% the cost of the install for some bolts.
Do people reuse existing bolts, and if not can someone find me (preferably Amazon or TexasSpeed for ease of ordering) some less expensive alternatives?
Do people reuse existing bolts, and if not can someone find me (preferably Amazon or TexasSpeed for ease of ordering) some less expensive alternatives?
#11
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
And I'd personally spend 15 minutes rather than any money at all and just repin the PCM so the rear O2 ports read as the fronts.... reuse the sensors you already have, and the cable length is perfect.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
#12
Thank you! I can deal with the $40 for those. And stupid question but they sell the same kit in hex and 12-pt ends. For a standard ratchet is there a preference?
#13
It's not mine! woo hoo!
iTrader: (7)
I meant that you can get away much cheaper than the ARP studs. I bought a set of stainless header studs from "Alper Motorsports" on eBay for $36, IIRC, when I did my install. It just makes the process so much easier because you put the studs in the head, hang the gasket, then feed the header up and slid it on. That's it! You can do it by yourself, you don't need to fight trying to thread the bolts under the cowl, and it saves you time and frustration. That's why I'm such a proponent to using the studs. With that said, no, they are not required and you can reuse the stock stuff or use whatever is included with the headers.
#15
Another question:
With my mainly stock (no big engine mods done or planned) is there a big difference between the 1 3/4" and the 1 7/8" headers? The price isn't much different, I'm thinking more in terms of ease of installation and ground clearance, and if its really worth it without going heavily modded.
Thanks again.
With my mainly stock (no big engine mods done or planned) is there a big difference between the 1 3/4" and the 1 7/8" headers? The price isn't much different, I'm thinking more in terms of ease of installation and ground clearance, and if its really worth it without going heavily modded.
Thanks again.
#18
#19
That's MISTER MODERATOR
iTrader: (9)
The heaters have been discussed many times here. While I haven't researched or tested them personally, they did work very well for me. If the need arises again, I'd use them again.
#20
That's MISTER MODERATOR
iTrader: (9)
I'm using this inexpensive stud from Dorman. They're the perfect length and have a hex to help get them in. They'll bottom out in the head to take advantage of all the threads in the head eliminating the chance of pulling out the threads. NOT stainless steel-which I hate using on any high-stress fastener application.
I think I got the 12 point nuts from ARP. The washers are Nord-Lock, which positively lock any nut or bolt head. I'm gonna add a stainless washer because the through holes in the header flanges are a bit oversized.
I think I got the 12 point nuts from ARP. The washers are Nord-Lock, which positively lock any nut or bolt head. I'm gonna add a stainless washer because the through holes in the header flanges are a bit oversized.