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Kooks headers and true duals issues

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Old 10-22-2014, 03:10 PM
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Default Kooks headers and true duals issues

I recently installed the Kooks system for my 2000 Z28 A4.
I bought the required bmr driveshaft loop/cross member and the Panhard relocation kit.
The pipes are resting on the cross member and any slight bump it hits. I've made several adjustments to the whole system but cannot get this noise out. Tried calling kooks and let's just say the customer service wasn't up to par for a $2700 exhaust system. Anyone run into this?
Old 10-22-2014, 04:30 PM
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I have the same problem, stuck a 1/4 in piece of aluminum sheet between the safety loop and the body. Seems better now but clearance is still really close, for reference I have solid motor mounts and the Kooks LT and Kooks TD setup.
Old 10-22-2014, 04:40 PM
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The BMR mount comes with shims. Use those. I got mine to clear... but you may need to buy longer bolts at the hardware store.

Tho I do have a vibration and I don't know if it is hitting that, my BMR trans crossmember, or my panhard bar. Everything is very tight under there.
Old 10-22-2014, 05:20 PM
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I used all the shims for the BMR mount. My kit does not have the bracket on the passenger side pipe that hooks to the exhaust hanger on the tranny. I've noticed looking at other installs online that those kits do have that hanger. I wonder if this is part of it?
Old 10-22-2014, 06:15 PM
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Could you wrap the pipe with header wrap where it comes in contact?
Old 10-22-2014, 07:44 PM
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I have thought of that. I use that rubber muffler patch stuff that gets sticky with heat and it's done nothing. I have thought about taking out the spacers on the bmr and then wrapping the pipes with header wrap.
Old 10-22-2014, 10:00 PM
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The BMR loop is crap for TDs. Sell it and buy the Midwest chassis loop.....it goes over instead of under. Its also like a pound lighter.
Old 10-22-2014, 10:04 PM
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Mine didn't attach to the trans either. Might be part of the issue...
Old 10-23-2014, 07:41 PM
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Took the spacers out of the bmr and put header wrap where it rests on the bmr and it cured the majority of the issue. I still have a slight hit after the passenger side cat before the bmr that I'll get to tomorrow
Old 10-23-2014, 08:08 PM
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Glad I'm not the only one that had this issue, just like you I ended up "fixing" it by placing header wrap between the exhaust and DSL bracket. After having it like that for a year I have to say it didn't work out well for me...eventually the exhaust will wear a hole through the wrap as they rub against each other. I also think it transfers a lot of noise into the body.

One other thing is that I think the bracket pushing up on the exhaust brings it closer to the gas tank. I ended up melting my gas tank a little bit even though I still had all the factory heat shields in-place. It may be totally unrelated to the DSL but watch out for that regardless.

My plan is to go MWC DSL when I install my MWC Fab 9 next Spring. In my opinion the exhaust system needs an additional hanger before the pipes go over the axle....the factory hanger locations just don't provide enough support.
Old 10-23-2014, 08:45 PM
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I agree. The true dual setup is heavier than the stock exhaust so I think it should at least use the hanger on the tranny. Today I also put heat tape on my gas tank all around where the pipes are. I've not had issues yet so I may wrap the pipes nearest to the gas tank with the rest of my header wrap.

As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
Old 10-23-2014, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jhshnh
I agree. The true dual setup is heavier than the stock exhaust so I think it should at least use the hanger on the tranny. Today I also put heat tape on my gas tank all around where the pipes are. I've not had issues yet so I may wrap the pipes nearest to the gas tank with the rest of my header wrap.

As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
When you say hanger on the tranny, you're referring to the stock mount on the passenger side? I was able to use that hanger with mine but I don't have cats. Post up if you come up with anything else on decreasing rattles, vibration, and other clearance issues. I'm losing faith that I'll ever have mine adjusted perfectly.
Old 10-24-2014, 06:01 AM
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Yes. That's what I'm talking about. Looking online it looks like some kits have it. I think the rest of my rattle (which is minimal) is probably due to not changing out the motor mounts.

I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.
Old 10-24-2014, 10:17 AM
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Havent really had any vibration or banging with mine. Not using a DSL. It doesnt like speed bumps or most driveways though.
Old 10-24-2014, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mac62989
Havent really had any vibration or banging with mine. Not using a DSL. It doesnt like speed bumps or most driveways though.
I think changing the DSL and taking off the stock heat shields by the tank will eliminate the majority of my noise issues. Speed bumps and gravel driveways are terrible.... The scraping sound hurts my soul.
Old 10-24-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by s7ven
I think changing the DSL and taking off the stock heat shields by the tank will eliminate the majority of my noise issues. Speed bumps and gravel driveways are terrible.... The scraping sound hurts my soul.
Ya the heat sheilds by the tank have to be touching, that spot over the axle was so close. Lol that is a great way to put it
Old 10-24-2014, 01:14 PM
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The speed bump sound is what hurts me, I lost the kit that came with my drive shaft loop, was it bolts and washers or just washers(shims)? Anyone know what side the bolts are?
Old 10-24-2014, 01:49 PM
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I have cats and no trouble using the stock tranny brace on the pass side. It does help pull it up a bit.

I also had to put a heat resistant hose used for turbo applications (cut it in half) on the passenger side firewall where it goes over the axle. I just used the screw locations to hold it in place where the heat shields were. I couldn't angle it far enough to not hit it. No issues with melting 2 years later and it touches it all the time.

Then I had to furr down the driver side PHB with a 3/4" block ( where the 3 bolts go into the floor) for extra clearance over the axle on the bottom as well. That combined with the MWC DSL and I don't have a single rattle anymore.
Old 10-24-2014, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BrntWS6
The BMR loop is crap for TDs. Sell it and buy the Midwest chassis loop.....it goes over instead of under. Its also like a pound lighter.
The Kooks true dual setup was actually designed around our parts so it should clear without any issue. I actually sent the parts over to them myself and dealt with them when they were designing the true duals. The Kooks true duals are different in how they run the piping compared to the traditional style true duals so what your saying doesn't apply in this situation. Now with a traditional style true dual setup our driveshaft loop doesn't work very well unless it is design around our driveshaft loop which I have seen people do.

Hopefully we will be redesigning our loop to work in any situation here in the near future.
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jhshnh
Yes. That's what I'm talking about. Looking online it looks like some kits have it. I think the rest of my rattle (which is minimal) is probably due to not changing out the motor mounts.

I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.
Odd that they would stop providing that mount on the pipes, I do think it helps quite a bit with support. I also did header wrap on the pipes by the tank but only because I was paranoid after it melted.


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