ChrisCoufal

2006 LQ4
LS3 Front Accessories (all new)
LQ4 Balancer (new)
New balancer bolt also

I'm in the process of installing the new balancer. I lightly greased the inside of the balancer and then used the proper LS install tool to install it (very easy BTW with the proper tool).

My question is: How do I know how far down to snug it onto the crank? It looks like I have between 1/4" to 5/16" remaining between the pulley and the timing chain cover. The belts "appear" to be pretty close....but how do I know for sure? Also because there is a gap between the crank face and where the washer would sit on the pulley.....I feel like when I snug it down it's going to suck the pulley down even further??? What am I missing?

Then for the bolt: From what I've read it looks like I use the old bolt to snug everything to 240lbs, then remove it and snug the new one to 37lbs and then go about half or 140* more of a turn? Does this sound right? Do I need to use locktite?

Thanks

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

It goes all the way until the crank snout is even with the washer face on the pulley. You can use locktite, but not required. The instructions you've found are correct for a stock bolt.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

the balancer will not fit up flush with the crankshaft. I for forget the measurement, but there should be a small gap.

ChrisCoufal

how/where do I find that info? Secondly, what stops the balancer from moving deeper on the crank when I snug the bolt to 240lbs?

unit

The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40 - 4.48 mm into the balancer bore. If you have a little more, it's not a problem as long as the belt pulleys line up with the balancer. Be sure to install the old balancer bolt and torque to 240 lbs ft. That ensures the pulley is properly seated on the crank. Then remove the old bolt and install the new bolt as per GM specs if you have an OEM bolt or spec for the ARP bolt if you're using that. The info is found in the Field Service Manual.

jrpimp00

iTrader: (17)

No need to reinstall old bolt if he used the install tool. Should have about a 1/8 lip. Just make sure your accessories are lined up

ChrisCoufal

thanks

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Not to thread jack but I just did this today and have some info to add and a question.

So I used an engine assembly manual and it said that when the pulley is pressed on and you remove the old bolt you used to torque to 240ft/lbs the crank snout should be .175 inch (aka 4.445mm) or less from the place on the pulley where the bolt sits. I measured mine and it was .131 inches so I was ok (I used a digital measuring tool).

I then put in my new GM bolt and torqued it to 37 ft/lbs per the manual and proceeded to give it the additional 140 degrees of twist. Unfortunately I couldn't get past 110 degrees despite trying pretty hard. Is this a problem? Would think with that much force it should be good enough.. Right?

CuL8tR

iTrader: (4)

If you have the flywheel lock tool then you may need to put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar to tighten it. If your crank isn't pinned i would make sure its on there correctly. I had my crank almost come off and that was before i added the blower. Try and get it as close as possible.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

well I went back out there to try and now I think I screwed something up. In an act of stupidity I did something I shouldn't have done. I didn't have the flywheel holding tool so I had someone hold it with a prybar in the teeth of the flywheel. At 110 degrees The flywheel took a chunk out of the pry bar. After the last post I went out there to try again. I had nothing else to hold it so I stupidly stuck an extention in one of the open holes in the flywheel and turned it until it rested against the starter flange on the block and I turned it the 30 degrees I needed. It seemed to work fine. Then I took it out and went to turn over the engine and it turned hard. I had tape over the exhaust ports so I know where was some resistance from pressure but not a ton. It finally gave and I swore I heard something scrape on the first few engine rotations. I must have turned my engine over by hand a few dozen times and everything seems good and no scraping noise. I have two fears here. One did I bend the flywheel because of the angled force put on it by the extention? or did I break something in the tranny? My engine and tranny are in a bare frame so there is no linkage and I don't know what gear it was in.

I don't really think I have the arm strength to bend that flywheel so I may just be paranoid because everything seems to turn over smooth now. It just felt hard that first time over after tightening it and I thought it felt like it was hung up on something and then came off of it hard.

unit

If it's turning smooth now, you're probably good to go. There may have been a piece of your pry bar interfering with the starter and flywheel the first time around. Not particularly good on the starter or flywheel but it most likely dropped out without damaging anything. You can pull the starter and have someone rotate the engine by hand while you check the teeth on the flywheel for damage. That takes the guess work out of it.

CuL8tR

iTrader: (4)

Ive done it with a big *** pry bar without a problem. You should be fine. But that flywheel lock tool which is sold on this site by someone is well worth the money for how tight these pulleys are.