when installing longtubes should you put silicone on the gaskets tohold them in place
#1
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when installing longtubes should you put silicone on the gaskets tohold them in place
should i use hi temp silicone on the header gaskets like on the side of the gasket that attaches to the head and the side that attaches to the header? just wondering so i know how to keep gasket in place, or should i just put gasket on header and put a bolt through it to hold it in place? should i use stock metal gaskets?
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no silicone, but id buy new gm stock gaskets. Speed inc has em ------> They are only like 16 bucks, and its not worth it to have to buy new ones if the olds turn out to be bad, and you have to do all the work again. Just cover all your bases the first time around!
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Originally Posted by jcori3
no silicone, just use the old gasgets, they will be fine. Check the bolts after a few hundred miles to make sure they stay snug
And to add to that, I read a scary post where a guy busted off a header bolt in the head. To avoid such heartache I might be inclined to use new bolts, or maybe even invest in a stud kit. A stud kit is a good idea IMO, especially if you plan to have the headers on and off frequently, plus the studs will hold the gasket in place and make hanging the headers easier.
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Originally Posted by natronathon
no silicone, but id buy new gm stock gaskets. Speed inc has em ------> They are only like 16 bucks, and its not worth it to have to buy new ones if the olds turn out to be bad, and you have to do all the work again. Just cover all your bases the first time around!
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Here is the trick guys. Just use thread and loosly tie the gasket to the header flange. Before to torque the bolts down tight cut the thread and pull it out. This saves a ton of time messing around trying to get the to line up right.
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#9
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
natronathon is right. Just get some new GM gaskets. I had to replace my driver's side within a couple of months.
ShevrolayZ28, that was probably me. I broke off a stainless steel locking bolt in my head.
Here's a pic.
Not fun.
ShevrolayZ28, that was probably me. I broke off a stainless steel locking bolt in my head.
Here's a pic.
Not fun.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=broken+bolt
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i have used this trick for years and it works every time;
just cut a notch in the very front and very back part of the gaskets right at the front and back bolt holes so you can start the front and back bolts first, then just slip the gasket right down from the top. I can't believe no one else does this ???
just cut a notch in the very front and very back part of the gaskets right at the front and back bolt holes so you can start the front and back bolts first, then just slip the gasket right down from the top. I can't believe no one else does this ???
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Originally Posted by mcamp001
i have used this trick for years and it works every time;
just cut a notch in the very front and very back part of the gaskets right at the front and back bolt holes so you can start the front and back bolts first, then just slip the gasket right down from the top. I can't believe no one else does this ???
just cut a notch in the very front and very back part of the gaskets right at the front and back bolt holes so you can start the front and back bolts first, then just slip the gasket right down from the top. I can't believe no one else does this ???
That is what I have been doing every time. Just drop it in and be done with it. Just use tin snips to cut the notches. Unless you buy copper gaskets, then they already come with the notches.
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Originally Posted by NHRATA01
Don't bother with the ARP header stud kit. I tried it, and there's nowhere near enough room to get the studs in and get the header flange over them. Longtube header clearances are way too tight in the engine bay. Ended up re-using the bolts.