SMonty

iTrader: (8)

I'm having some trouble with this pulley install, I heated it up and tried to put it on but got stuck about a 1/4" from the seal with about 1/8" still ahead of the crank snout, now I'm wondering if I was sold a non-f-body pulley. does this look like an f-body underdrive pulley to you guys?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

4th pic definitely looks like the right pulley. Did you use a longer bolt to seat it?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Have you tried pulling it the rest of the way on using the old bolt? Takes MUCHO force to get it on that last bit. The crank snout should be flush with the inside of the pulley, 'vette or f-body. You could throw on another accessory and see if the belt groove lines up.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

There doesnt look to be all that much left to go onto the snout. I bet it would be hard to tell if it was truly "cattywhumpus".

Ima get mines

iTrader: (3)

Yes thats a 4th Gen Pulley, it looks like its all the way on to me. I did my install the hard way, then I learned how to do it the right way and I got it done in 2 minutes. Get a very large socket like a 1 1/2 inch and hold it in the middle of the puley so its touching the area around crank. Get a big hammer and give the socket some good solid hits and it will slide on like butter. If it doesnt move after a minute of hitting then its all the way on.

SMonty

iTrader: (8)

So the front seal does not have to be flush against it? I did use the old bolt to put it on, after heating it up some it went on enough for me to just use the old bolt to thread it to where its at.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

if you look at the directions to put on an LS1 crank/underdrive pulley. it tells you to tq. it in 2 separate passes. first pass tq. to 18 ft. lbs. of tq. (i think) then the next pass to 120 degrees with ends up for a total of around 140ft. lbs. of tq. that is a lot of force to do with a wrench. if you have a M6 car put it in 1st with the parking brake on and apply that force!

Sneakyws6

I personally would not go a hit the front end of teh pulley/crank with a hammer, but thats just me.

I put my car in first and used a threaded rod the first time and then a longer bolt the second time. It will take some muscle to get it to seat all the way.

The used the old bolt and torque it down to 37ft lbs. Remove the bolt then use the new bolt and torque it down to 120ft lbs. Once that is done mark the bolt and pulley with a spot and then try to rotate the bolt another 120 degree. You will be lucky if you get 75-90 but that is the correct torqueing sequence.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

i wouldn't hit it with a hammer neither. maybe if i had a copper head hammer and was desparately stuck in the desert....

CASHss99

iTrader: (2)

i think its the old bolt 240ftlbs and the new one 37ftlbs with a 140* after that

SMonty

iTrader: (8)

bought the pulley used and never received the instructions. I'm gonna just reef on it tomorrow.

GG01SS

iTrader: (1)

Make sure its all the way on, talked to someone at a car show recently that had one fly off, I think he used the old bolt. I had mine impacted off and on then torqued, took about 5 minutes, still holding 5 years.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Do not beat on it with a hammer!!!!


This is the correct method..although I beleive that it is 235 lbs with the old bolt and then the new bolt to 37 lbs. and then the final 140 degrees of rotation ...you will need a good stout breaker bar ... I use a 24 inch HD one and a 3 foot section of pipe over it to get the required tightening..