Do Not Epoxy Your Tb
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Do Not Epoxy Your Tb
Just wanted everyone to know NOT to put epoxy on your TB (where the vacuum hose gets air and the sensor) THE REASON NOT TO IS that the air will not flow right and will set off your SES light and throw codes P0171 and P0174 – running too lien on both banks… and like me you will get crappy gas mileage (200 miles per tank *with grandma shifting and driving*)
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i think its crasy to epoxy anything in the air intake.....just think of if that epoxy comes loose on a cold morning and gets sucked into the intake......the lip in front of the tb blade is really the only restriction there......
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#8
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Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
i think its crasy to epoxy anything in the air intake.....just think of if that epoxy comes loose on a cold morning and gets sucked into the intake......the lip in front of the tb blade is really the only restriction there......
#10
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No problems if you do it correctly.
First, knurl and notch the sides so teh epoxy has something solid to grab onto. Even if the epoxy comes unbonded to the metal, it will be an interference fit and will hold in place.
Secondly, you need at least 3/8" hole for the IAC otherwise youll have trouble idling, as mentioned above.
Thirdly, for the love of god, keep the epoxy out of the seat where the IAC plunger closes up against. Having a chunk of epoxy in there will keep it from sealing and limiting airflow.
As long as youve done it correctly and cleanly, you will not get a SES light.
First, knurl and notch the sides so teh epoxy has something solid to grab onto. Even if the epoxy comes unbonded to the metal, it will be an interference fit and will hold in place.
Secondly, you need at least 3/8" hole for the IAC otherwise youll have trouble idling, as mentioned above.
Thirdly, for the love of god, keep the epoxy out of the seat where the IAC plunger closes up against. Having a chunk of epoxy in there will keep it from sealing and limiting airflow.
As long as youve done it correctly and cleanly, you will not get a SES light.
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well it was just that stupid epoxy crap after I took it off my car does not throw the SES light anymore.. I had someone do the work and believe that the holes where too small... the car ran fine but a little rich.. just thought I would post this to warn people of this problem I had for a while
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The eboxy on mine has stayed put for a good 4 years or so. Prep
is the key. I also used JB-Weld which probably sticks a lot better
than the putty some how-to writeups recommend.
I never had any codes result from my home ported TB. I have a
1/4" drilled hole to the IAC cavity.
is the key. I also used JB-Weld which probably sticks a lot better
than the putty some how-to writeups recommend.
I never had any codes result from my home ported TB. I have a
1/4" drilled hole to the IAC cavity.
#15
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
No problems if you do it correctly.
First, knurl and notch the sides so teh epoxy has something solid to grab onto. Even if the epoxy comes unbonded to the metal, it will be an interference fit and will hold in place.
Secondly, you need at least 3/8" hole for the IAC otherwise youll have trouble idling, as mentioned above.
Thirdly, for the love of god, keep the epoxy out of the seat where the IAC plunger closes up against. Having a chunk of epoxy in there will keep it from sealing and limiting airflow.
As long as youve done it correctly and cleanly, you will not get a SES light.
First, knurl and notch the sides so teh epoxy has something solid to grab onto. Even if the epoxy comes unbonded to the metal, it will be an interference fit and will hold in place.
Secondly, you need at least 3/8" hole for the IAC otherwise youll have trouble idling, as mentioned above.
Thirdly, for the love of god, keep the epoxy out of the seat where the IAC plunger closes up against. Having a chunk of epoxy in there will keep it from sealing and limiting airflow.
As long as youve done it correctly and cleanly, you will not get a SES light.
exactly, mine has been on there for over 3 years, and no hitch. You have to rough up the area and make sure it is immaculately clean.
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I put a Shaner TB on my Corvette with the epoxy. At first he engine did not idle normally. It hunted and idled faster then normal. In time the PCM relearned and the idle improved. Ultimately, I had the car dyno tuned and no problems. My throttle response is much better with the ported TB and I have no regrets however I do believe that the statements about idle issues associated with epoxy in the air hole are factual.
Last edited by AJay; 09-15-2007 at 06:05 AM.
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Originally Posted by 02 Silver SS
Just wanted everyone to know NOT to put epoxy on your TB (where the vacuum hose gets air and the sensor) THE REASON NOT TO IS that the air will not flow right and will set off your SES light and throw codes P0171 and P0174 – running too lien on both banks… and like me you will get crappy gas mileage (200 miles per tank *with grandma shifting and driving*)
You should correct your title to : "Do not epoxy your TB incorrectly"
I have ported and "epoxied" over a dozen TBs and never had a problem.
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my car runs correctly no codes and i get 200 miles to the tank
i thoght i was doin good after i heard some people where gettin 150 or so
i thoght i was doin good after i heard some people where gettin 150 or so
Originally Posted by 02 Silver SS
Just wanted everyone to know NOT to put epoxy on your TB (where the vacuum hose gets air and the sensor) THE REASON NOT TO IS that the air will not flow right and will set off your SES light and throw codes P0171 and P0174 – running too lien on both banks… and like me you will get crappy gas mileage (200 miles per tank *with grandma shifting and driving*)