bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

WTF!? It's not coming off!

Tips? Tricks?? It's just bending my puller... It's an SLP UDP too... I'm waiting on THunderracing to send me another one. I wanted the ASP UDP.

Tom@SpeedInc

iTrader: (5)

you can use a 3 jaw puller

i've been able to take every SLP off with a regular balancer 3 bolt puller deal

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^I'm using a heavy 3 jaw puller.. It's not budging. I tightened all the bolts on it and it's strightening the puller.. -Not staying where I want it and I run out of bolt for the puller..

That SOB went on TIGHT too!

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4080_200354080

Autozone and other stores will have similar as rental tools that you can use without having to buy and keep the tool in your toolbox. It makes things much easier than regular gear pullers!

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

Yeah.. I've still got one I rented, but the bolts don't fit..

Anyone know the bolt size for the SLP UDP??

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

I believe they are 3/8"x24 bolts. Someone might be able to double check that, but I'm pretty sure that's right!

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

stick a large socket on the crank snout to gain more "length" on the puller.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Go pick up a cheap Propane torch from your local auto parts store and try to heat up the pulley a little bit. I've had a couple in the past that broke pullers trying to come off. Heated them up and they slip right off.

Make sure to wear thick gloves and keep the flame away from anywhere near the oil pan or surrounding components.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Powerbond pulley = SLP pulley

Here's how I did it:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/751611-how-remove-powerbond-ud-pulley.html

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ I'll try the Crystler method..

I thought about heating it, but I don't want to melt my front seal..

And yes, I tried the large socket too.. It's stuck on the 3 jaw puller now.. Usually I can figure this stuff out, but I've been put thru hell at work lately and I don't have the patience to deal w/ more IshT when I get home..

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Update?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

Haven't worked on it... GOtta go to the dealer to get the removal tool..

It was killin me not being able to drive the car today.. It was a great day for it... I haven't driven it in months.. It's a garage queen that sits on carpet scraps while I beat on my DD F-150. I spent 2 months detailing it so I'm not in a hurry to get bugs or dust on it again, but I just want out take it out for a rip....THis is killing me not having drivin it in SO long.. I miss the lope and the power, to the point that my 5.0 95 F-150 feels fast..

crashinaz

iTrader: (35)

Tighten the puller up to the point where you saying "this isn't gonna budge", remove the ratchet and leave the socket, 2 sharp blows with a hammer on the socket, tighten the puller up some more... Repeat. Shock loading the puller while it's got tension on the damper works everytime. You may have to do this quite a few times. You may not see progress at first, but each time you put the ratchet back on, you'll notice that you get an additional 1/4-1/2 turn on the puller before in snugs up again.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

X2


and as far as the comment "I would heat it but I dont want to ruin the front seal", well you should be replacing that seal anyway, and heating it is a good idea anyway, it will expand the pulley and let loose of the crank. I personally dont like to heat things much, but it does work, im more of a big ******* hammer type of guy lol.

If nothing else heat it and beat it ( that sounds so wrong )


oh and I had a lot of trouble getting a buddy of mine's pulley off with his cheezy puller until I brought over a "real" puller, as in not cheap, got a Mac tools puller and that bitch popped right off.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I was gonna stalk the Snap-On tool truck to see if he had a good puller... He's a hard one to find! I found the Matco tool guy but I didn't have money at the time..

I don't have a lot of "WHACK" room.. the RAD is still in the car and the car is on the ground.. Lowered F-Cars are a PITA to work on.. That crank pulley is always a PITFA for some reason!! I'd rather do my H/C swap again than have to mess w/ the fans and that damn crank pulley!!! FK THAT!!!

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Why aren't you pulling the fans AND rad, if I remember right the radiator and fans slide right out as an assembly.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^The fans will slip off the RAD.. But I'm not bleeding this whole system just to change the frickin Pulley.. The fans always kick my *** for some reason.. They're hard to get off the RAD on my car and to un clip the connectors and all... it's just a PITA in my book.. Like I said, I'd rather do a whole H/C swap than mess with these damn fans or crank pulley..

The way my garage is, it's a real PITA to work on a lowered F-Car.. There's a 1" step in the foundation towards the front of the garage. So my shins are basically at the height of the top of the RAD.. = Bet the hell over.. I put a piece of carpet of the RAD support frame piece to kneel on.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

damn that sucks, well good luck with it.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You don't have an Auto Zone near by to rent the puller?

Black 99 Bird

iTrader: (31)

Are you using a puller that threads into the crank? If not, that is what you should be using.