Can I replace just my rods and pistons myself?
10-25-2003, 02:00 PM
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Can I replace just my rods and pistons myself? I have a low mileage motor. Id like to pull my motor over the winter and build a stronger bottom end. Can I buy a stock replacement forged piston and good rod/rod bolt combo and simply slide them into my factory block wothout any problems? Any comments or suggestions? Thanks.
10-26-2003, 12:32 AM
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You will be limited in the selection of off the shelf pistons fitting the stock bore, probably want custom.
You still want a light hone to seat the rings, but this can be done home.
The crank needs to be balanced for new rod and piston weight.
You still want a light hone to seat the rings, but this can be done home.
The crank needs to be balanced for new rod and piston weight.
10-26-2003, 01:07 AM
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If you are mechanically inclined, it isn't terribly difficult, just time consuming. The only problem you may run into is getting the special tool to properly seat the oil pan and front cover.But the actual process of putting the pistons into the car is not difficult at all. If you have done it before, it is the same. Just remember to stagger the ring gaps. You are going to want to get forged billet rods like eagle, and forged pistons like diamond, and then get the whole rotating assembly balanced.
10-26-2003, 10:57 AM
#4
The problem is that very few production motors are bored and hones with torque plates resulting in out of round cylinders (most LS1 bores look like eggs). If you just swap pistons, you will still have crappy bores and as such the rings will not seat well.
You should really pull the motor, have it line bored, decked, and 0.010" bore. Then when you put it back together, you will have a MUCH better motor (this is my Christmas project
).
You should really pull the motor, have it line bored, decked, and 0.010" bore. Then when you put it back together, you will have a MUCH better motor (this is my Christmas project
).
10-26-2003, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke_Ford
If you are mechanically inclined, it isn't terribly difficult, just time consuming. The only problem you may run into is getting the special tool to properly seat the oil pan and front cover.But the actual process of putting the pistons into the car is not difficult at all. If you have done it before, it is the same. Just remember to stagger the ring gaps. You are going to want to get forged billet rods like eagle, and forged pistons like diamond, and then get the whole rotating assembly balanced.
10-26-2003, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001SS#3013
What do you mean special tool to properly seat the oil pan and front cover? I have just read or heard that the oil pan had to positioned right because it helped strengthen the motor but did not know you needed a special tool. What does this tool do exactly?
Tommy
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10-26-2003, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TaTommyWS6
There is a speciality tool you are supposed to use, but I've had my oil pan and front cover off already, and I put it all back together without the tool and have had no issues, other have done so also. The reason for the tool is to get the proper alignment of everything so the gaskets seal well. I just tightened up my oil pan first, then installed the front cover with the bolts loose, installed my crank pulley, then tightened the front cover bolts starting from the bottom and worked up. Others have done the same, and it seems to work fine. Worst comest to worst (if you do have an oil leak), you can always loosen everything and realign it with the engine in the car, it's no big deal. Good luck!
Tommy
Tommy
This works fine with the front cover. The rear cover and bolting the oil pan has some slightly increased difficulty. The oil pan has a role in bolting the engine and tranny together and the rear of the oil pan has to be aligned within .010 with the engine.
Probably you can do like described above but then leave the oil pan loose until the engine is bolted to the tranny or measure the flatness of the rear using glass plate or something else suitable before bolting the engine.
