Doug1

This is my very first post on LS1. I have build a number of Pontiac and Chev engines but this will be my first LS motor.

I will give you the quick story... I bought a 2001 WS6 6speed Trans Am that a young lady had hydrolocked after running into a flooded intersection. The body and interior are in great condition, the electrical works, etc. It does need both window motors but she said it needed them before the incident. Anyway, I paid $2K for the car with 80,000 miles on it with the intention of building it into a show quality car. I already own a number of 2nd gen F-bodies so I wanted somethign with more modern handling and saftey features.

I have removed the interior and stored it and am now ready to get to the mechanicals before moving to the cosmetic alterations.

I want to build a motor that has at least 700HP and would like advise on what block / heads / cam can get me there. Basically I want to build the largest CID LS and will most likely put a procharger on it if I can get near 1000HP. I know I will need to beef up the clutch assembly and rear end and have already ordered those parts.

Bottom line is I am looking for specs to build a serious LS motor from the bottom up. I hope someone here can help point me in the right direction.

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

Research, my friend, research.

You need to do some research. We don't know what you plan to do with the car or your budget, but I'm sure you have a pretty good idea.

I recommend looking around the FORCED INDUCTION section and the GEN IV INTERNAL section. Look at what's working for people and what isn't. Look at engine combos that make reliable power. What's the point of 850hp if it only lasts 300 miles?

If you want a bullet proof drivetrain, you'll need to look in the REAREND, MANUAL TRANNY, and SUSPENSION sections, because your 10-bolt will break, the clutch will stick when you try to speed shift into 3rd, and you'll want beefier suspension so the first 3 gears aren't useless as far as traction goes.

Hope this helps.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

You are way over your head so far are you talking 1000RWHP ?

If so First. You need is lots of cash post about what your looking to spend on engine first. i have close to 35k in just engine and miss systems to make 1000 engine hp 800RWHP But it will do this all day long and i can drive the car across the states if i wanted to.

So now we need to know your goals and what you want and dont want

Are you staying 6speed? a clutch to hold a 1000Hp is 1500 bucks. A GOOD clutch worth driving to hold a 1000RWHP IS like 3200 and up

largest engine is not the best for the FI. If you going to build a FI motor thats what you build going to FI after building a N/A motor will cost more and break stuff

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I see procharged 408s make that kind of power all day long. If I were you, I'd look into an LSX block. Priority main oiling, doweled billet main caps, and 6 bolts per cylinder are all gonna help out a lot on something like this. Keep the displacement conservative, like 427ci, so that you can get a good piston and have room for rebuilds...just in case. I'd go with Callies and Wiseco internals just because my past experience with their stuff has been great.

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Moved from Advanced Tech to Gen III.

Doug1

Thanks KCS. That is the kind of info I am looking for. I have built plenty of SBC, BBC and Pontiac motors over the years and I am not a newbie to engine building. I know I can make 1000HP for way under 35,000 with an LS motor. I already do that with old Chevys and Pontiacs now and that is old technology. Now I have not seen anyone make that kind of horsepower on the smaller CID without forced induction. (Not counting NOS hits)

I have built 1600 HP motors in the $30K range. Obviously, I don't have the builder expense to pay so that saves 1/4 or the bill in most cases.

I will definitely be using a Callies forged crank. I am interested in determining whether I should use an aftermarket block to get really big displacement or a factory cast iron block. Which heads work best with forced induction?

My initial budget for this project is $75,000 with me doing most of the work. Of course, budgets are easily broken in this play ground. I plan to build the motor myself, do body mods myself providing I can find a source for some parts that are one offs. I will use an air ride suspension to get the car VERY low for shows.

I'm told that this tranny is very strong and should hold up other than the clutch will need a major upgrade. The driveshaft and rear end will need to be replaced from the start because I KNOW they won't hold up to what I am going to throw at it.

This build will not be quick since I do all the work with little outside help.

But I digress....

Any recomendations on the aftermarket vs factory block? Best heads to use with a procharger?

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

Ok now with that info you seem to have a idea of where your really at. I wasnt trying to be a ***. from the first post i just thought you were a newb looking to build a great car for 15k which it seem alot of people are.

Whats your HP goals and how driveable do you want the car ? Do you know the engine size you want or is that open ?

I like the Trickflow 235 and the 245 heads. Very nice for the price and what you get.
Any head with a thick deck will work good with FI. When you say the best head id say canted ET with a custom Sheet metal intake Think heads are 8k with 4k for Sheet intake.

402 with a ls2 block very good for the price can make good power but if looking for sick power later on. Id do a 427 with a Warhawk Block 6 bolt heads Which the trickflows are or a 427 on a LSX block but the block is iron My motor F1C with a 427 Warhawk 6bolt

What procharger are you using ?

LS1-NAVY

iTrader: (1)

i say do my dream set-up lol. 427 LSx block with around 9:1 comp with ETP 265cc heads with a big blower cam, with a F1-R procharger. that will give u the easy 900-1100hp if tuned and put together just right.

Doug1

Understood about the newb deal. All the kids today want to throw some NOS and or a turbo on a stock bottom end. Bad news for them is even if they do make those mods, the are going to need a bucket to put the bottom end parts in.

Thanks for the info. That's what I am looking for. I am going with a D-1SC on this build. I plan on using the LSX block and 6 bolt heads but haven't picked the heads, pistons or cam as of yet.

LS1-NAVY

iTrader: (1)

well if u r going to build a 427 out of a lsx block im pretty sure u will be maxing out the little D1SC lol

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

With that kind of budget i would go with a warhawk block and a all Lunati or callies rotating assembly. You could build something like a 440 with Trickflow 6 bolt heads, Victor Jr intake, and a 106mm single front turbo. With the boost turned up 1000+ hp will be no problem.

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

with big cubes an aftermarket block and good heads, I would def do a any of the F1 prochargers.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I would personally do an aftermarket block. It's not that a factory block couldn't hold it, but the LSX block really has it's advantages in something like this. Mainly in the head clamping department where the extra 5th and 6th 8mm headbolt help out. With a 4.185" bore and a 4" stroke, you can get away with 440ci pretty safely. Plenty of sleeve length for a simple, ie cheap and readily accessible, shelf-piston and plenty of cylinder wall left for durability and future rebuilds.

Concentrating on running more and better boost is going to yield greater power than just about any other part of the engine. When choosing a cylinder head, I would look for something with the 6 bolts per cylinder, a thicker deck, and spring pockets that will fit a decent sized spring. I really like ETP heads and PSI or PAC springs. Just about every set I've seen were flawless, compared to some other popular brands that came through our shop. AFR's have a really good reputation, but I've never really had any experience with them.

Good luck with the project, sounds like it will be a monster. Keep us updated and keep firing away with the questions.

-Kent