top end hp
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top end hp
i search top end hp and couldnt find anything so if anyone can help, please, im all eyes.
ive noticed in many videos that on highway pulls we ls1`sstruggle a lil against the turbos because we top out so early and they are strong up top.
im looking at doing some upgrades to my performance but not sure on the path i should choose(not nos if possilbe). im at 325whp and 336tq with longtube hearders, intake and ***** exhaust(deal with a more open flow later).
i start loosing a good amount of power at 6k and im wanting to have it hold strong till 7k, heard it was def possible.
so main objective: extend the redline a little and increase top end power for highway pulls 100+
ive noticed in many videos that on highway pulls we ls1`sstruggle a lil against the turbos because we top out so early and they are strong up top.
im looking at doing some upgrades to my performance but not sure on the path i should choose(not nos if possilbe). im at 325whp and 336tq with longtube hearders, intake and ***** exhaust(deal with a more open flow later).
i start loosing a good amount of power at 6k and im wanting to have it hold strong till 7k, heard it was def possible.
so main objective: extend the redline a little and increase top end power for highway pulls 100+
#2
Cam and springs! Stock ls1 springs are known for valve float above 6000rpm my car did that to. If you dont want to do a cam swap you could use ls6 springs cheap easy and will help your car rev up better but if you want to go to 7000rpm then you would def need a cam
#3
Turning 7000 rpm is not something to be taken on without a lot of thought and durable parts. You should consider installing new heads and a cam (with good springs). This will greatly improve your power at 6000 or better but will come at a loss of some low end torque. If you really want to turn 7000+ you should really consider using forged pistons, crank and rods. None of these are cheap or easy to install. A head/cam combo can get you good power in the mid to upper 6000 range and a significant boost over your stock pieces.
Any reason why you are avoiding N2O? Lots easier to install, and less money, than a head/cam swap.
Any reason why you are avoiding N2O? Lots easier to install, and less money, than a head/cam swap.
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#8
top end
Same as above!i am running h/c ms3,prs 5.3's,all bolt ons.leave on lmtr at 7grand.shift at 6600rpm all stock block.has seen lmtr more than i can count.ws6 trans am i think,watch his vid on stock block with rod bolts & cartek stg 4x set up !wheels up mid 10's with a 10.32.
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I'm not a fan of the 7K shift....as that's the "magical" number when rod bolts can fail. With dual springs, heads, etc I've run my car to 6800 a couple times. Even that does not seem natural (my car sounds pissed off when I rev it that high )..... a higher RPM (with the right cam) will net faster times. I only rev mine out when needed so I can get through the 1/4 at the top of 4th gear. Generally I shift at 6600.