99-LS1-SS

I don't plan on running a S/C or NOS on my car ever. I want a cam that will give me the most power and be a reliable daily driver. I have heard different opinions about same duration cams and reverse split duration cams. Can someone explain the differences and advantages of each.
I would like to get between 420 and 450 rwhp. I will be running the stock heads for a while so if the power isn't there until then I will be ok. I have all the bolt-on's with a 3000 rpm stall.

Dave Carney

If all the bolt ons means long tubes too, then there's no disadvantage whatsover imo. I think that's the way to go on the LS1, stock heads or not.....

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

The advantage of a reverse split is in the fact that an ls1 intake to exhaust ratio is favored at the exhaust side. Meaning the exhaust flows more than the intake. So by using a reverse split cam you are increasing the lift and duration over the exhaust side to alter the air flow through the engine. I think you know the power they can make and with stock heads and good intake you could very well see the 410 mark with an auto. The F1 or MMT's M2 cam are great proven reverse splits. I might have an F1 for sale shortly.

cracker

iTrader: (1)

The M2 is a reverse split lift,not duration.

Just my personal experience:
I swapped my standard split cam for a bigger reverse split. The results were not good. The new cam is a 234/230 .598/.591 112+2. I picked up 35 over what i had previously. Sure, my car made 321 with mild bolt ons, longtubes and true duals. All I did was change the cam for a standard split and I gained 60! Then, to try something different, I tried the RS. Talk about heartache, oh well, at least I tried.

99-LS1-SS

This post confuses me a little.

1. What cam do you have now?

2. What did you have?

3. What would you recommend based on your experience?

purevilss

I have the TR 227/224 and all I can say is go bigger. All I wanted was to see 400 or better at my wheels with an auto and can't get it I hear now that I still need more exhaust duration.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

TSP 232/228 .595/.588 112LSA the car makes crazy power, a little bit more mild than the g5x-2 but it's a daily driver. Car finds idle pretty quick.
-Steve

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Don't know if this will help you but here are is my last dyno pull..

Stock/TR236/N20 with Tr236.. These are all with the cut outs open.TR236

Open vrs Closed cut outs

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

I was confused as well......

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

CRACKER/ANYONE ELSE:

I am in the exact same situation as the original poster here and want to know the best cam for everyday use to use in my 03 z06 with stock ls6 heads and all bolt ons including 410 gears.

I am leaning towards a standard split TSP 231/237, .598 lift and 112 lsa but want to explore all possibilities b/f making my decision such as would the MMT 2 cam be better for me. I really want something a tad milder than the g5x2 as that is know to eat srpings, etc.

My car will NOT SEE N20 or other forced induction!

THANKS

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

I like the F1 over the m2...but that is my opinion. Local guy here in dallas was running the g5x-2 and went to the F1 in a z06. He made 440 rwhp with longtubes and an exhaust. I think for non N2O the F1 is a really good choice.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

What are the specs on the F1 and who carries them so i can research, as 440rwhp if he was on stock heads is an INCREDIBLE NUMBER!!!!

killer01ws6

SO Cracker,
you are saying the TR230/224 .575-563 111LSA will not work well in my 01 ws6 M6???

99-LS1-SS

Who makes the G5X-2 cam? What are the specs on it?
Also I want to make as much power as possible and still be emission legal.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Well the emissions legal thinkg is a HUGE additinal criterion which can elimiate the LGM cam which is close to 234/240, .600 lift on a 112 lsa.

For emissions legal i would say stick with a thunder racing 224/224 cam on a 114 lsa to play it safe!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

power isnt everything man. the best bet is picking out the right combo for your application. i know you want a bazillion hp but work within your constructs. find out what the local guys are running in your area, get the exact requirements for your smog conditions, look at your budget and then do the research for the best setup for you. theres no point in asking about the x2 cams and the like if you have absolutely no chance of passing emissions with it.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

230/226 591/569 112lsa


i dont know if you've seen this jim but its good reading and has reviews on just about every cam out there on a variety of setups. cam reviews

offaxis

iTrader: (19)

I have a TR230/224 and It is a great cam. Ive had np making very good hp with it. Ive had many people ask me about this cam and I always recomend it. Im sure I would probly make alittle more power with a G5-X2 or x3 but those are larger cams then mine.

Jeremy

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

JRP:

Thanks for the awesome links on the cams. YOU DA MAN!

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

Ditto on what he said. That is a great compilation of cams that are out there. I currently have the F1 on 5.3 heads that have 2.02/1.55's and it was making upwards of 430...till i threw a rod last week

Honestly the g5x cams are nice but if you want to pass emissions that isn't the way to go. The GT2-3 cam is really a better cam and in am m6 with stock heads will make 400 rwhp. Specs are 207/220 .573/.580 lift 118.5. Great cam with a stealth sound not to mention a lot more emission friendly.