faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

Had the engine down to the shortblock and installed ls7 lifters, 7.4 chromoly pushrods, prc double springs kit, comp cams trunion upgrade kit and supporting mods. When I installed the trunion kit I made sure the bearings were in enough to get the c clips on but not on too tight so they still move freely. Every bolt's torque was double maybe triple checked.
I also measured for the correct length pushrod and with the preload came out to be 7.4.

-It didn't do it immediately do it after the swap. I got around 80-100 miles on it before I noticed it, then it has been getting progressively worse. But performance has not been affected.
-It Only makes the noise after warmed up.
-Sounds more prominent on the driver's side but possibly seems to be the same noise on the passenger just quieter.
-Initially used quaker state 10w30 and filter for the first 20 miles as a precaution, changed it again with the same type of fluid and filter, then the noise came around the 80-100 mile range and I put in 10w40 Valvoline synthetic blend. it had no effect on the noise.
-Sounds like upper end noise to me but it is all brand new

I don't know if someone can give me an idea based on the description?
I would post a vid but they sounds never really sound the same through a vid as they do in person. exhaust notes maybe but not the difference between normal sewing maching noise and a negative valvetrain noise.

Thanks in advance

Busy Mopper

iTrader: (4)

I would recheck everything and make sure everything is fine with the lifters and push rods!

98hc4mula

iTrader: (5)

mine did it bc of the truniion upgrade bearing were not up to par for the job.
I had Harland rebuild mine with the new version of bearings.
take off the rockers and check if some are seized.

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

I should be able to pull off the covers and better diagnose this upcoming week, I was automatically suspicious of the rockers because they were the only think with bearings I replaced. I will pull them back off and check them. Thanks 98hc4mula.
Anyone else please chime in!

00chevsilv

iTrader: (4)

I'm keeping an eye on this becuase I've got thse same thing going on except on the passenger side. I did a cam swap a year ago and and about two months ago the tick developed. I swapped over all of the same parts except I did 1218 springs and I didn't touch the rockers. Curious as to whether I'm failing a rocker finally or if I've got a lifter going.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

pull the valve covers and see if any needle bearings let go from the rockers. also check the bottom of your oil pan

z28241

iTrader: (13)

What size cam did u go with? Valvetrains with a BIG Cam, may make some noise due to aggressive ramps etc..My .02..Anyways Good luck!

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

24x/24x with over 600 lift, but i think if it was a characteristic of the cam it would do it cold AND after its warmed up, vs. soley after it reaches operating temp which is what I'm running into.
I don't know that thats how it would act for sure or not.

BackinBlackZ

There can be several factors to contribute to your issue. Wrong size pushrods, incorrect lash if you upgraded your valvetrain outside of stock, incorrect oil viscocity, failing/weak oil pump, low oil level, oil galley blockage,etc. Some valvetrain noise is normal, however, upgraded spring and ramp pressures on the valvetrain can really tax your seats. You are probably hearing your valves smacking the seats really hard because of excessive spring pressures and with your upgrades (camshafts over .600 lift), that could be the case here.

z28241

iTrader: (13)

Actually, it may make more noise when engine is warm and oil has thinned out a little..the case for a loud ticking/knocking noise at start up/cold.. usually would be a worse issue..IMO

Couple of quick questions..

Did u let ur new lifters sit in oil for a bit before the install? just curious..

Is it all chronic..or a steady tick..im guessing maybe a bad lifter,.. yes!, i know yours are new..

BTW my car..pre-build, had a very similar issue, once it was at operating temp she ticked, the issue..stock lifter ..not pumping up ..

Cars with a cam similar to yours in most cases make some noise, due to the aggressive ramps and such..but not overly loud..whats your LSA?

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

........

BackinBlackZ

Lifter plunger must be fully charged with oil with all the air out of it. This will pump up the lifter. Installing partially filled lifters will have air trapped in it, preventing it to pump up properly....ticking sound results from this and the lifter will collapse. Normal oil pressure cannot fill the lifter cavity because of the displaced air, so you cannot consider the lifter charged through this process because of the bleed-down process.

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Did you pull the oil pump? If so did you replace the o-ring at the pick-up tube oil pump junction?

z28241

iTrader: (13)

Thanx for explaining that, You obviously see where i was going with that question i asked the OP, I was going to get into that, was away from PC for a bit...but that was my concern, i strongly believe to let lifters soak, overnight possibly, worked out for me!

BackinBlackZ

....yep!

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

Okay so we think we have a diagnosis, but what is your guys suggestion for fixing this? Surely not pull them out and let them soak...?

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

Oh and yes I had it off and upgraded to a high volume melling. Im at about 55-60psi at idle and 70+ under acceleration.

z28241

iTrader: (13)

Im not sure now, since they have been exposed to driving and rpms..Im that guy who would buy a new set, thinking these wont perform now to what I want and breaking in a new set right..thats just me..Alot of work and time I know..

SladeX

I've had a "tick" in my car for the past 3 years which I officially fixed yesterday with proper length pushrods.

-it wasn't rod knock, sound was off the top of the valvetrain, would not increase in intensity with rpm as severely as rod knock would
-it'd only appear after driving with consistent rpm for a good duration of time ie highway driving 2k rpm, or after a 1/4 mile run
-moderately aggressive driving which you "blip" the rpm a good amount to keep the pressure up would make the sound go away
-letting it sit and idle for a longer time ie 5 min(longer than a stoplight) could quiet it, or shutting it off, letting it "cool" then restarting could stop it
-sound could be pinpointed to a particular side of the engine, back, front, driver or passenger
-best description of sound was like "a valve closing way to quick or hard"
-can vary in intensity from "slap" to I can't have a conversation in the car loudness

What it came down to for me was incorrect pre-load on the valvetrain. I had like 2 full turns for each rocker meaning I had like 0.097 pre-load which was way too much. 7.400 pushrods -> 7.375 length 1.5 turns

When I first installed the cam, I didn't know any better and incorrectly installed the rockers not using the intake close, exhaust open method so my impression of "valvetrain" slap led me to guess I needed more pushrod. Initially when I installed the new pushrods, it was quiet on startup, and only once in awhile (or 1/4 mile) would the tick come. In recent months, it was fairly consistent on long drives and now got to the point that a 30 min drive could reproduce the sound. I recently changed out rocker arms to try to quiet it up, which didn't change a thing.

I drove all day yesterday after installing the pushrods and could not get the sound to come back. The full roller rockers + proper length pushrods have made my valvetrain so quiet now. On start up, there is hints of the old tick, but once warmed up, the valvetrain is quiet. Complete opposite of before. Cold quiet, warm tick.

Intimidator02SS

When you installed the new springs, did you do anything with the valves? The reason I ask is because I have seen an issue like this before where the valve and guide get used to a certain amount of lift and the wear accordingly. Now with a bigger cam the valve lifts more into previously untouched area of valve against the guide. The car I am referencing had an exhaust guide issue.
Maybe there was some carbon buildup on intake valve stems and when you factor in added lift and engine getting warmer (less clearance between valve stem and guide) the valve might have a sticking effect making a louder noise when it slams shut.