Rebuilding my first LQ4
11-17-2010, 11:44 PM
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Rebuilding my first LQ4 So I got an LQ4 Longblock for my project and I'm thinking of rebuilding it myself then before dropping it in having my pal check over it (he owns and runs a shop that builds race cars and trucks). I'm getting a new engine stand cause I don't want to do all the work while the engine is lifted in the hoist, as well as a new torque wrench (my old one is well a few years old and I don't think it's calibrated anymore), and a few other tools. I'm planning on installing new connection rod bearings, ARP connection rod bolts, new head bolts (the longblock was missing a few), new cam, LS2 or an aftermarket double roller timing chain, Lunati valvesprings, I'll replace the lifters, for now I'll keep the cast pistons I'll upgrade in January (My friends said they might get me forged pistons or a full exhaust with longtubes for my birthday
).
Any suggestions or tips, btw I'm not on a big hurry if I have to postpone the swap till later I'll do it I just want to do it right and actually build this with my own two hands and learn more.
). Any suggestions or tips, btw I'm not on a big hurry if I have to postpone the swap till later I'll do it I just want to do it right and actually build this with my own two hands and learn more.
11-17-2010, 11:50 PM
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How many miles on it. You wanna be sure the rods are still perfectly round and that the block doesnt need to be honed, line bored etc. So first off what mileage? also do you want to raise compression and mill the heads or run thinner head gaskets? If so might as well have the heads gone through while theyre off and be sure to measure for pushrod length AFTER you have your final deck height and cyl head placement. Good luck sounds like a fun project, wish I had a spare something to play with
11-18-2010, 12:00 AM
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The shop I bought it from wasn't sure on the mileage. So I'm planning after I take it apart and clean the grease off of it have my Pal the shop owner inspect it to see if he recommends overbore,honing, or anything else. I'm keeping the compression stock (9.5) cause I want to start slowly boosting it after my birthday so the 317 heads will stay stock other than the valvesprings, rockers, and pushrods unless I can manage to sell these so I can make up the few hundred I'm lacking to buy a pair of L92 heads. The specs on the cam are 224/228 duration and IIRC .612/.615 115 lsa. I'm also going to have him help me tune a small nitrous shot to use as a Last Resort at the track if the N/A cammed 6.0L isn't enough.
11-18-2010, 12:05 AM
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Yeah i think youll enjoy it N/A but dont go too high of a shot on cast pistons. I would pull it apart and let a machine shop check the rods and have the crank checked, you dont wanna put it back together with out of round rods and new round bearings, it just wont last as long. pick up some pac 1518s valve springs or if you want some extra confidence maybe a dual spring. hardened pushrods (after you measure) slap the thing together and let it eat. sounds like fun good luck. Im subscribed so keep us posted
11-18-2010, 12:18 AM
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Yeah i think youll enjoy it N/A but dont go too high of a shot on cast pistons. I would pull it apart and let a machine shop check the rods and have the crank checked, you dont wanna put it back together with out of round rods and new round bearings, it just wont last as long. pick up some pac 1518s valve springs or if you want some extra confidence maybe a dual spring. hardened pushrods (after you measure) slap the thing together and let it eat. sounds like fun good luck. Im subscribed so keep us posted
I've been working on this swap for a while now slowly finding the parts I need and buying them slowly used were I can., http://www.streetracing.org/boards/s...d.php?t=108103 in this thread on another forum I post at I've kept up some of my progress.
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11-18-2010, 12:41 PM
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Yeah another member here told me Lunati started offering valvesprings, so I called them up and they told me these dual valvesprings would be good to keep my high lift cam in check.
The specs are 145# Seat and 385# open and they are designed for cams with 0.6" lift. And with a brand like Lunati at $210 it seems like a pretty good deal.
The specs are 145# Seat and 385# open and they are designed for cams with 0.6" lift. And with a brand like Lunati at $210 it seems like a pretty good deal.
11-18-2010, 09:52 PM
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I wanted to just keep the shorblock stock for now but after inspecting the cylinder bores this afternoon I saw they need to be honed, so I think I'm gonna have to go with some slightly larger pistons cause I've heard that honing factory pistons might not have the right piston to wall clearance and I might end up with some piston "music". So next up for my build seems is buying or more probably renting a honing kit, check piston to wall clearance with the stock pistons and if the clearance is too big I'll buy some larger pistons with new connection rods, sell these, and do it right.
