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Budget cam build for CTS-V LS6

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Old 01-28-2011, 09:52 AM
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Default Budget cam build for CTS-V LS6

Steming from my camshaft position sensor problem, I believe the propblem is actually the cam bolts. I figure if I get that far into the motor, I might as well drop a new cam in it. I am simply looking for more power, not a wild loping idle. My V is daily driven all stock LS6 with 113K on it. Mods are monster clutch, aluminum flywheel, and B & B exhaust. I know I will probably need to do valve springs and pushrods. May do headers down the line as well. Is there anything else critical that I need to upgrade? Any cam suggestions?


Must haves:
Camshaft
Valve Springs
Pushrods
??????

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????
Old 01-28-2011, 11:49 AM
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I would replace any wear item that has to come out to do the cam. When mine was done we replaced valve seals, timing chain, oil pump. All of them are coming off anyway, why not put new parts back in. It's only a couple hundred more dollars.
Old 01-28-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCamaro99_3
I would replace any wear item that has to come out to do the cam. When mine was done we replaced valve seals, timing chain, oil pump. All of them are coming off anyway, why not put new parts back in. It's only a couple hundred more dollars.
I will probably do factory replacement timing chain, oil pump, and likely the water pump too. Don't you have to pull the heads to do valve seals?
Old 01-28-2011, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by blownz71
don't you have to pull the heads to do valve seals?
negative
Old 01-28-2011, 05:06 PM
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how much power u lookin to make? the edelbrock 2216 is small upgrade from what u have now, should put u close to 400rwhp
Old 01-28-2011, 05:51 PM
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I'd recommend our V2 as it's a torque monster and works well in heavy cars, yet still has a nice lope to it. Our cam kits which include everything you need (PRC dual springs, titanium retainers, pushrods, new crank bolt and seal, timing cover and water pump gaskets) and happen to be on sale this month for $775 shipped. Call me at 817-750-2000 to take advantage of this, Chris
Old 01-28-2011, 06:48 PM
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To replace the cam the heads have to come off an LS motor unless you use the magnetic lifter tool. Since the motor has over 100K you should do a valve job and new seals while they're off. You should also replace the lifters so you can add that to the list. Plus to take full advantage of the cam you'll need headers and a tune also.

Last edited by RedHotG8; 01-28-2011 at 06:54 PM.
Old 01-29-2011, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHotG8
To replace the cam the heads have to come off an LS motor unless you use the magnetic lifter tool. Since the motor has over 100K you should do a valve job and new seals while they're off. You should also replace the lifters so you can add that to the list. Plus to take full advantage of the cam you'll need headers and a tune also.
That is incorrect. You remove heads to replace lifters.
Old 01-29-2011, 01:48 PM
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If you don't remove the heads AND use a magnetic lifter tool when replacing the cam the lifers will end up in the oil pan.
Old 01-29-2011, 07:40 PM
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They might stay in the lifter trays all by themselves or if you use a wood/steel dowel through the front of the block to wedge them in snug they won't fall out as others have been doing for years.
Old 01-30-2011, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by slowride
They might stay in the lifter trays all by themselves or if you use a wood/steel dowel through the front of the block to wedge them in snug they won't fall out as others have been doing for years.
^This = truth. We just did a cam swap on my friends Avalanche and even though they stayed in the lifter trays when we spun the cam around, we used the pen magnets as extra insurance.
Old 01-30-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHotG8
If you don't remove the heads AND use a magnetic lifter tool when replacing the cam the lifers will end up in the oil pan.
Either use the "Dowel" method or "Roulette" method. Heads only come off for work on them or replacing lifters.



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