High_Angle

iTrader: (-1)

can u guys recommend a cam only setup without requiring a new torque convertor?

upgrading the valvetrain is in the budget as well

forgot to add, QTP longtubes, TSP 3 inch true duals extended out the back, SLP intake, and an EFI tune are what I have.

dee99gt

iTrader: (3)

A small cam would be okay for awhile, like a 220.. It will lack in performance w/out a stall and might push thru the brakes. Go with a stall first.

mark21742

If o could only afford 1 of the two, I'd get a stall first... you would see more gains from a stall only than a cam only

PREDATOR-Z

agreed or a TR224 112 will work nicely if well tuned

skimms98

iTrader: (7)

STALL FIRST...it is the single best thing you will ever do to your A4....just ask anyone who has one...

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Yep 110% stall first. I gained 6 tenths from just a stall change. Your car will not be fast just doing a cam change. I put a hot cam in my lt1 without a stall and gained less than a tenth in the 1/4 mile. If you have to match the cam with your stall if you have an auto. It is pointless to put a cam in without a stall. It willl pull through the brakes and be completely anoying to drive. STALL FIRST cam second. Save up if you can't afford it right now you shouldn't do it. Plain and simple. Wait tell you have the money

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Stall is better then a cam IMO. SS3600 from Yank would be really nice on a stock camm'd car.

High_Angle

iTrader: (-1)

what do u mean, push through the brakes? my car idles at 1000 rpms now and the brakes hold fine.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

My 98 z28 picked up 3 tenths and 6mph in the 1/8th with a 226 patriot camshaft.. guess that was pretty pointless. If the guy wants to do a cam first let him. He surely knows with all the information out there that a converter will net more of a gain at the track.. converters don't sound great or give you mass gains in top end though do they?

You can run the cam up to around 226 with no problem at least with my expierience, idled out at 650rpm and had an A+ Jeremy Formato tune so it was fine. Went from a 1.9 60' to 1.8 60's to boot.

I feel like a cam'd auto ls1 without a converter is similar to a converter with no cam ls1 in its trade offs FOR ME.. with the cam and no converter you don't get that brutal off the line torque, but get all the fun of a cam'd ls1 engine up top, but with the converter and no cam you get all that ability to 60' like a beast, but that's where it ends so God forbid you run across someone rolling out of a stop light past 20mph or so where that converter car would get its **** pushed in by a cam'd car where if you lined them up at the track the converter car would likely hold you off.

greasemonkeysoldier

iTrader: (1)

Thats BS......i've smoked a buddies car w/ a 228R cam and no stall from a dig, 30 roll, and 45 roll.......you might get some gain from a cam w/ no stall but a stall is hands down the best mod you can do for an Auto car, period.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

a good quality converter will shine off the line, mid range, and top range

High_Angle

iTrader: (-1)

im getting 2.0s or 1.9s on beat up drag radials so my 60 ft isnt suffering. at the most, i track the car twice a month for a toal of 6 passes, more like 4 passes since its getting warm.

i dont want to overpower my tires by having a 3400 or higher stall. the cam would come on when im already in motion and in the higher rpm's.

basically what i want is power that comes on at the end of 1st till 4th. i was thinking nitrous but i dont always have the right mix of gas when i need it.

so.....cam?


also, my idle is already 950-1000

garygnu

the EPS 222/226 cam will work with a stock stall,but the TSP 224r cam pkg mite fit your budget better.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I am wanting something similar to you, in that I dont want to blow the tires off when racing from a stop. I run 315 street tires and usually race from a roll of 60 or so on the interstate. I decided to go with a yank 3200 stall and have found one basically new from a member on here for a lot cheaper than youd think. I was going to probably go with the eps 222/226 113 cam or a tsp 228r 112. I hope this will be a fairly matched package for what Im wanting. Good luck with your search.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Having ran my car for over a year with no stall and the cam I can honestly say I would rather drive a stock car than cammed car with no stall. It's a ******* waste.

It was hell on the brakes, ran like ****, and made me look like a retard camming then get outrun by a bolt on/stall car.

My car is a **** ton faster on the top end and midrange too, it's not just low end. If you lose up top it means you got in inefficient converter. I picked up 2+mph in the 1/8th with just the converter.

Also, even when the car spins it still gets the same **** 60ft as it did stock stall/cam. But with good tires and even hooking half throttle out of the hole will pull a 1.7 60ft. So it's a win win.

_GTO_

Ok, you all agreed that the stall is a must on a drag race , what about rolling and high speed racing ? I think without the stall the car would perform better but with less drivability .

Am I right ?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This thread is stupid.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You are wrong. With an efficient converter you will also pick up mph as well as cut several several tenths off your et.

A converter is a better mod than a cam, period.

Put a tsp giant in it.. you are already doing it completely wrong, why steer off that path now?

GrahamHill

iTrader: (6)

Quality torque converters clamp down harder and apply more power to the tires. Basically you get 1.7XX 60' foot times and more MPH with a good converter. Cam only the 60' stays the same (with a baby cam) but you gain MPH and ET.

Do the cam only and you might get .3
Do the stall and you will get .3 at least but probably more.
Then later on you can put the cam in that your engine wants, not a band-aide cam.

HTX

iTrader: (1)

a converter will help on roll races as well as dig. Better than a small cam will.

that being said you will be fine with a tr224 or 224R