Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

* disclosure * This is my first build, and I am an Ls1 nube.

My goals from my build are, 100% daily driver, 4xx+rwhp, track time 1x-2x a year if that just enough to back up the dyno #'s, without sacrificing any drive ability, or breaking the bank at the pump. All this in a Gbody Regal on a budget.

As of today my build plans that I have been collecting parts for nearly a year are,

Ls1 stock bottom (except Arp rod bolts)
799 heads, fresh, stock ports
Lunati dual gold valve springs
Ls6 intake, stock injectors, ported TB
Eps cam 222/226 113
Longtube headers, duals, no cats
4l60e 3200-3600 stall
3.42-3.73 in the back

Now that I have my money right to get my machine work on my motor and start doing some real building I've taken a step back and am looking at my options.
I know that the ls1 is going to give me what I want for what I am going to use it for. Still it's hard to ignore that stepping up to a 4.00 bore without changing anything except the cam will give the same results. Plus, some extra pull down low where i will be living most the time. Also it will give me many more options on the top end if i ever decide to grow.
So naturally i have begun to search for an Ls2 short block to build then sell my Ls1. But they are HARD to find, and even HARDER to find one on a budget.
So I have started to consider an iron block 6.0, but am having a hard time jumping off the aluminum bandwagon. I'm already rolling heavy in a Gbody, then you add another 80lbs of iron, and factor in that my *** is 250lbs+. That all equals heavy.

What are some of you guys ideas. If i can't find a Ls2 that works for me should i just go with a Lq9 or would i benefit more staying with the Ls1 and maybe getting some slight head port work and a custom cam.

Shoot me some of your thoughts guys. Thanks

mark21742

Get the iron block and go on a diet

I went with an iron block 408 and can tell you you will never notice the weight difference

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

Lol. True, I'm working on it brother. This time last year I was 320+ lbs.

What top end are you running on that 408? Would my top end be able to keep up or would I need to put a Gen IV top on it?

Nebulus

iTrader: (14)

I'm in almost the exact same position. Been collecting parts for a year, stuck deciding between ls1 and lq4. Only difference is that i managed to acquire an lq4 for cheap and it's going in an f-body. I've been asking my buddies and the answer is unanimously lq4 because of the ability to upgrade later down the line, especially if you want boost ( and lord knows i do!)

mark21742

Lol I know what you mean about boost....that's my goal here when I can save up for the turbo/ turbos for my 408!

If you have an ls6 intake it will work ok, but since your dropping it in an older car that might have more clearance between the hood and valley pan (11"+) you could run the Edelbrock proflo xt. I bought mine new for $365 and did some porting on it and it can out flow the $1000 FAST intakes. When it comes to the heads it all comes down to how much you want to spend

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

buy a 6.0 block and have it bored to 4.065 and use a stock ls3 rotating assembly.... taaa dahhhhh, instant iron block ls3 and 29 more cubes than a ls1.. im gonna have around 630$ in an ironblock 6.2 and that includes assembly... those 799's and the 222/226 would work decent together but if you ever had the heads ported the cam would need to be bigger to compliment the higher flowing heads. but thats just my few coins worth

eggnore

iTrader: (1)

lQ9 will take a lot more power than a ls1
so long as you intend to put the blocks to their full potential don't screw with aluminum

mark21742

I would and did go a LOT bigger than a 222/226.

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

I have no argument that the iron block gives us many more options in strokers, and power adders for maximum builds. Following a recipe like that i would obviously get more power and performance than an LS1 mod for mod and overpower any drawbacks of the extra weight. Still it's hard to disregard the potential of power and efficiency pound for pound of the LS1 (that I already have) using the right combination of stock parts and basic bolt ons. Which realistically my budget build will have to remain unless my 'Save a Regal foundation" begins to draw sponsors and outside donations. lol

I guess a fair combination to compare would be using a set of L92 heads stock port, milled to match the compression of the 799's, LS3 intake assembly, and a mild cam to match the one i have planned to use now.

I think selling my LS6 intake, and 799's gets me pretty close to breaking even. Hmm, I have homework.



I have always been interested in the Edelbrock Proflo XT, but when i went to research them there was very little information I could find. What is your set up? What kind of power are you putting down? Any track results? Where in the powerband does your setup live?

mark21742

I have never had my car on a dyno (I have and run Hptuners and street tuned mine), but it is so strong I cab honestly say I raced and beat several sport bikes

I'm running a 408 stroker, 12. 5:1 scr, 255/263 .624/.624 115lsa, ported and milled (57cc) chambers, fully forged bottom end, Edelbrock proflo xt (of course), FAST 90 tb, 60lb motron injectors.
Fuel cut is set to at 8,000 rpms and shifted at 7,800 (I newsroom get on a dyno to see how high o can spin it before power drops off). I will be ready to spin it 9,000rpms+ if still making power after i swap in a set of Jessel rockers.

The intake works like a sheetmetal intake and really smooths out my idle at 850 rpms (you can hear the huge cam, but has the steady strong choppy idle), and like I said, it holds and flows strong all the way to 8,000 rpms


I paid full price for mine ($365), i do not work for ot get paid by Edelbrock or any shop/ person that is sponsered by Edelbrock.
I would buy and run this intake again and again on all my builds over any of the other single tb intakes out there.

Before I ran it I did take a long porting bit and port match the gasket areas and hogged the whole interior out.


Plus if yoy want you can so some grinding and polishing on the outside of it to end up with a work of art....here is what mine looked like when I got done grinding/ sanding/ painting and polishing mine
Enjoy the pics!

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

nice work on that intake. What is that a Chevelle?

welldonecj7

iTrader: (13)

Looks good with all the polished pieces

mark21742

It's going to be my daily driver when I get it finished. It's project "CheHell", 69 Chevelle body on a stretched 87 Nissan Pulsar chassis with the fwd Nissan 1.6l......old school muscle car look with great fuel mileage

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

I'm convinced the 6.0l is the whats going in my build. That doesn't mean i'm giving up on aluminum (LS2), but that doesn't look like its going to happen to be honest.
And confirm I've already bought my first 6.0 part (LS3 intake assembly) to go with my L92 heads once I decide to sell my LS6 intake kit and 799's

I have to admit an iron block 6.2l is very interesting to think about. have you already done the machining involved for this? What are the issues with going to a 4.065 bore? What block did you use?

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

Using a 2002 6.0 block

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

no turning back now. Sold my LS1 and picked this up the other day.
2008 LY6, L92 heads, w/vvt (thats a whole other animal to consider now lol)

jwcarguy

iTrader: (76)

A buddy of mine ( "jalper" on the boards) got a 2009 LY6 /L92 deleted the VVT, put in a nice Lunati cam and matching springs, ARP rod bolts, picked up a LS3 car intake with a larger tb and is putting down over 500hp @ crank!

By the way, I have a new Camaro LS3 take intake complete with injectors, rails, seals and top black cover

Good luck with the build, you will be happy!!

Hy82e

iTrader: (14)

Actually my ls3 intake assembly minus TB should be here tomorrow I haven't decided if I'm going DBW OR DBC yet. I like the look of the Holley 90mm.

Did your buddy do anything to bump compression up or is running it all stock.

jwcarguy

iTrader: (76)

I am pretty sure that he milled them
not sure how much though
send him a pm and he can tell you what he did with the vvt and heads
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=184556

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

You can always make the power with the aluminum block that can match the lq9, but the advantage of the torque from more cubes will bring on power sooner than a motor with less cubes...

My opinion is if you are starting from scratch you might as well go with the max cubes you can get from the lq9, but if you aren't looking to bore and stroke I would stick with the ls1....the extra 18 cubic inches aren't worth the weight in my opinion...now if you are looking to buy a new crank then a 402 lq9 would be the best choice because you are gaining 50+ cubes....good luck man!