Forged rods and pistons with stock crank?
#1
Forged rods and pistons with stock crank?
So like the title says i would like to hear a few thoughts from some guys who know, the cars a 2000 ss pretty much stock, broke a pushrod so i decided i would drop the motor and build it im not really lookin to spend a ton of money, my plans are stage 2.5 ls6 heads and a descent size cam havent made up my mind on that yet, and of course all the supporting mods im shooting for the mid 400's on hp numbers....the car has approximately 100k on it so i think it would be a good idea to do a little work to the bottom end while ive got it out....so back to the question based on what ive said would there be any problems with reusing my stock crank and forged pistons and rods with a setup like this
#2
Banned
iTrader: (2)
I was just gonna start a thread almost exactly the same title.....
Your question......hell yes, use the stock crank over again. Just have it checked, thats all. You're good to 1,000 RWHP with a stock crank. Proven over and over and over again.....never really heard of a broken one...although I'm sure one has broken.
.
Your question......hell yes, use the stock crank over again. Just have it checked, thats all. You're good to 1,000 RWHP with a stock crank. Proven over and over and over again.....never really heard of a broken one...although I'm sure one has broken.
.
#5
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Texas and Qatar
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im not really lookin to spend a ton of money
Unless you have a broken or worn out shortblock (100K miles is not wore out) there is no major benefit to forging an engine from a power standpoint. Yes it will be a stronger build, and you can setup the engine to take power adders such at nitrous or forced induction a lot more reliably, but if the engine is just a heads/cam street engine your money is best spend on supporting mods for the heads/cam. Otherwise the money spent is a waste.
That being said, yes the stock crankshaft has proven itself to handle some decent power levels and can be reused for a stock stroke application. I myself have seen several turbo builds approaching 1000rwhp with the stock crank. You will need to get your block torque plate honed to match your new pistons, and then the rotating assembly will need to be balanced to match the crankshaft counterweights to the new weight of the piston and rod assemblies.
My recommendation is to spend what you would on a forged shortblock and get a good exhaust, FAST intake, throttle body which all will compliment your new heads and cam package. Think of it this way, do you want to spend $4000 to make 450rwhp, or $6000 to have a forged shortblock that makes 450rwhp? Those are just some made up money figures, but you can see my point.
#6
lol well the 2 cents is appreciated and yea i get what ur saying and that was my initial plan i was just going to do the heads and cam swap i guess maybe im over thinkin it i jus hate to do all that work and then have to tear it all back apart because something broke in the bottom end.....that being said how long can a stock bottom end hold 450rwhp day it and day out
#7
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Texas and Qatar
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
450 is about as reliable as a stock engine as far as the engine itself, if you replace the lifters timing chain and oil pump at the same time, you should be good to go for a long time. You may find weak links in the drivetrain though, depending on how "abusive" the driving is. Things like the clutch or automatic transmission tend to get an accelerated death when you add more power.
Trending Topics
#8
i guess im just gonna have to sleep on it, i would definately love to save the money it would cost to do the forged setup tho, and i know what you mean about the drivetrain ive ruined a couple transmissions and clutches in my time ive already planned on upgrading the clutch, and when the transmission or the 10 bolt goes ill just have to worry about that then....appreciate the advice tho man its been really helpful i can always count on the guys on here to know there stuff
#9
I just rebuilt my motor. I couldnt justify going back with stock rods and pistons. My plan was to have a 450whp daily driver as well and using stock crank but after my heads and cam motor shot a stock rod, i chose to upgrade since it wasnt going to cost that much more. I went with JE pistons and Eagle rods. Car is reliable and driveable as ever and now if i want to spray or turbo it later on i can with no worries.
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
If you broke a pushrod, you may want to rebuild the engine for the sake of reliability. I've found that the stock clearances are, in my opinion, too tight for performance applications but the parts themselves are typically suitable. I ended up using the stock pistons, rods, and crank but upgraded and modified the bearings. In hindsight, I regret not using an aftermarket piston with valve reliefs so I wouldn't have any issues with PTV clearance, in which case a relatively inexpensive set of hypereutectic pistons would have been great.
#12
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since you broke a pushrod have you inspected the bottom end or at least pulled the heads off to see if a valve smacked a piston? I had 2 rocker studs break when I had Yella Terras and didn't hurt anything else. It could have been alot worse and when the car was down for the current h/c setup all was clean. I almost put a h/c setup in my 99 SS with 134k, but decided to sell it instead. It was running like new and didn't even burn oil between changes.
Like others have said, if it ain't broke don't fix it with what you're wanting to do.
Jason
Like others have said, if it ain't broke don't fix it with what you're wanting to do.
Jason
#13
ok so im replacing lifters, timing chain, etc. pretty much everything except the bottom end, which i havent pulled the heads yet to inspect nething, but as long as that checks out its really just gonna be a h/c swap but what pushrod length do i need to order, ive heard several different opinions on the ls7 lifters that are apparently a stock replacement now, cant really seem to get a straight answer if they are the same as the orginal ls1 lifters......so basically i decided on a ms3 cam so what pushrod length is gonna work best and what timin chain