SpeedFreak7

Probably a common topic but, hey, I'm looking to get a new cam for my 2001 ls1 TA. It's a zo6 swapped engine. It has stock heads and valve train with ls6 intake. I fear that my reluctor ring is cracked, all symtoms are there. Any I would like to get a better cam, add maybe 20hp or so, get a ballsier idle. BUT! Without messing or changing out the heads, valves, springs etc. I just want a simple cam for a cam. Budget around $400 lower if possible. I have a 3.73 rear and 2800 stall. And a 4auto with shift kit. Help me out guys. Thanks

farmington

iTrader: (14)

too many things to change with a new cam. Springs, pushrods, and timing chain/oil pump while you're in there. then there's the front gasket kit and balancer bolt. to do it right is around $1000 in parts. Save up and do it right.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Cam Motion has drop-in cams specifically for this purpose. The lift is within the LS6 spring tolerances, and the lobes are gentle enough that stock lifters and pushrods are fine:

http://store.cammotion.com/57-ls1

For your purposes, I would suggest the stage 3 LS1 cam in the link. You won't get the big numbers that some of the bigger lift cams get, but you'll get some good benefit. Unless you have long tube headers, I would not recommend going beyond the stage 3. The stage 4 will have enough overlap that you will have reversion issues without a free-flowing exhaust.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

$400 is not do-able. You really need a tune with a cam and unless you can do that yourself there goes your budget. IMHO if you change an engine from stock either do it right or leave it alone.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Even with the Cammotion cam that works on stock springs/pushrods you're going to need some gaskets, oil, coolant that's gonna run well over $500. Not to mention the tune as Svede pointed out.

An option however would be to get a factory LS7 or LS9 cam, those run about $150. Even with the stuff mentioned above you'd be in the $2-300 range. However that won't exactly get you much power nor a rowdy idle. I suggest you save up till you can actually afford to do this the right way. You're going to end up spending more money in the long run to fix **** that breaks prematurely compared to doing it right the first time around.

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

You couldn't give me a cam to put in an LS6 longblock with those springs, OP open up your valve cover and look at your springs, if no blue stripe, you're welcome. I can see it now in another thread "Dropped a valve because I'm cheap"

SpeedFreak7

But I do have long tube headers with a inch off rode y pipe. What will be the factors then?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

In that case, I would get the stage 4. You should still replace the springs and measure your pushrods. A set of LS6 springs will run 50-75 depending on who supplies them. Springs fatigue, and the replacement cam will have faster ramp rates, meaning higher acceleration rates on the valve, meaning more stress to the springs. The extra money there is cheap compared to a dropped valve.

Like others have posted, you won't hit your budget - just cam plus fluids will put you at 600. But, the cam motion drop in cam, ls6 springs, and possibly new pushrods (although I think Kip uses the same base circle, so you should be OK). would easily get you your goals ( I would guess 30-40 rwhp), and will be about the least expensive route. You won't get the power that a similar cam with 600 lift will get, but since you aren't looking to, that should be no big deal.

You will also need:

---New balancer bolt - stock replacement is once and done, or ARP for repeated use
---front gaskets - cover and front main seal
---water pump gaskets
---Timing Set - best option IMO is the cloyes 3220, which uses the LS2 chain (thicker, stronger), widely available, reasonably priced. If they give you a fit at the parts store, because it doesn't "match" your vehicle, tell them its for a 06 GTO or vette.

SpeedFreak7

I was told about replacing the gaskets and bolts. And the 01 trans am/vette have hydrolic roller rocker arms right? Or some type of rollers

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

The stock lifters are hydraulic rollers. The rockers are steel, non-roller-tipped. The tips are slightly rounded, not flat, which will minimize (but not completely eliminate) scrubbing of the tips. Again, only a bigger deal at higher lifts anyway.