383 stroker or allbore?
#2
Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
What do you -- personally -- have more fun with, torque or horsepower?
Both the stroker and all bore are going to have forged internals (probably, anyway), with the exception being that the stroked engine will have a forged crank as well. That's probably not a big deal unless you're going with a serious forced induction setup and/or plan on spraying more than a 250 shot of nitrous, in which case you probably want a forged crank.
The stroker engine is going to give you a lot more torque than the all bore. The all bore is going to give you a lot more horsepower than the stroker.
If you look at MTI's setup, the 383 stroker is about $500 more expensive than the 387 all bore, but the all bore requires an extra $500 worth of headwork to be done. So, the net cost is about the same if you're buying heads at the same time. If you already have heads, and they're not ideal for big bore applications, you might be better off (cheaper, anyway) going with the stroker. If your heads are set up for big bore applications, or if you're going to buy heads anyway, I think the all bore will be about the same price, and in *my* opinion, more fun.
I couldn't decide either, so when I'm ready I think I'm going to go with a 427. Bore + Stroke = HP + TQ = more fun than is legally allowed. =)
Jonny
Both the stroker and all bore are going to have forged internals (probably, anyway), with the exception being that the stroked engine will have a forged crank as well. That's probably not a big deal unless you're going with a serious forced induction setup and/or plan on spraying more than a 250 shot of nitrous, in which case you probably want a forged crank.
The stroker engine is going to give you a lot more torque than the all bore. The all bore is going to give you a lot more horsepower than the stroker.
If you look at MTI's setup, the 383 stroker is about $500 more expensive than the 387 all bore, but the all bore requires an extra $500 worth of headwork to be done. So, the net cost is about the same if you're buying heads at the same time. If you already have heads, and they're not ideal for big bore applications, you might be better off (cheaper, anyway) going with the stroker. If your heads are set up for big bore applications, or if you're going to buy heads anyway, I think the all bore will be about the same price, and in *my* opinion, more fun.
I couldn't decide either, so when I'm ready I think I'm going to go with a 427. Bore + Stroke = HP + TQ = more fun than is legally allowed. =)
Jonny
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
I'm lookin to do a 383 forged stroker shortblock to eventually take a s/c setup. I'm still in the planning stages though, getting info and advice. Posts like this really help <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
I went with a 382 stroker because I did not like the idea of resleeving the stock block! I have seen it works very well though. But, if I want to make it an all bore I will go with a C5R block, but the C5R block is expensive!
382 Stroker and I drive it everyday (about 100 miles a day) for 1.5 years! Still pulls the same power!
Look at my sig. for more info. Also, I pulled 571 rwhp and 747 rwtq with NX MAF kit (100 shot) <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
382 Stroker and I drive it everyday (about 100 miles a day) for 1.5 years! Still pulls the same power!
Look at my sig. for more info. Also, I pulled 571 rwhp and 747 rwtq with NX MAF kit (100 shot) <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
Ruf ss Have you ever ran your car on motor?You'r setup looks like it will lay down good numbers at the track.It would be nice if someone could take your dyno sheet and lay the graph over one(simular motor) without the stroker.I think the peaks would be close but but anything before peak would be interesting to see.
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
I would personally (and am planing some day) to go all bore. I like bore more than stroke, it works better for highway and road race stuff (my feeling). Its also cheaper if done like I plan on doing.
I plan on getting the MTI resleaved block, a set of forged pistons, and then just having a local shop (who did my heads) "check over" and do any minor work needed to bring the factory crank and rods up to speck (install new rod bolts and convert to floating pins). I don't want to spin past 6500 RPM anyways (want engine to have a long lifespan) and the crank/rods will easily handle a good 650 or so hp (I don't need/want more than that).
Chris
I plan on getting the MTI resleaved block, a set of forged pistons, and then just having a local shop (who did my heads) "check over" and do any minor work needed to bring the factory crank and rods up to speck (install new rod bolts and convert to floating pins). I don't want to spin past 6500 RPM anyways (want engine to have a long lifespan) and the crank/rods will easily handle a good 650 or so hp (I don't need/want more than that).
Chris
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
Is it necessary to get a resleeved block to build a stroker rather than an all bore? Can I just run a cleaning bore on my old sleeves? Also, could I run my stock heads until I have the budget allowances to upgrade to a set of stage 2's or 3's??
Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
In response to your last question is you just go with a stroker crank (382/383 cid) you can certainly run your stock block with your stock bore, but the abovementioned cubes is the most you are going to get with the 4.00 crank. I believe you get around 394 cubes or so with the stock bore and 4.125 crank but i don't recommend that much crank for stock bore.
YOu certainly can use your stock LS1 heads but your motor will be choked for air flow and your car will not be making nearly the hp/tq it will make when you get some kick *** heads on the motor.
Goodluck,
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
YOu certainly can use your stock LS1 heads but your motor will be choked for air flow and your car will not be making nearly the hp/tq it will make when you get some kick *** heads on the motor.
Goodluck,
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by zZAndrusZz:
<strong> Is it necessary to get a resleeved block to build a stroker rather than an all bore? Can I just run a cleaning bore on my old sleeves? Also, could I run my stock heads until I have the budget allowances to upgrade to a set of stage 2's or 3's??
Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think I understand what your saying (correct me if I'm wrong). You are asking "does one have to get a resleaved block when building a stroker motor?"
The answer to that would be no. The idea of a stroker motor is to leave the bore stock (0.005 or so clean up on the bore) and just make the throw on the crank more (more stroke).
The resleaved block comes in when you want to get a larger bore (ex: 383 all bore motors). The stroke stays the same (unless you are going even larger...ex: 427) and the pistons just get bigger.
You can use factory heads on a larger CI engine (stock 5.7 heads on a 383 stroker motor). The engine will just never produce near the power it could with ported/polished/valved heads.
I am going the other way around. I had my heads ported, polished, and had 2.08"/1.60" valves put in. For now, they are on a stock short block 346 (droped low end torque but high RPM is crazy). When I get the money, I will up to a supercharger for a couple pounds of boost. Then once everything else is upgraded, the final move will be to either a 383 all bore or a 427 (bore and stroke).
Chris
<strong> Is it necessary to get a resleeved block to build a stroker rather than an all bore? Can I just run a cleaning bore on my old sleeves? Also, could I run my stock heads until I have the budget allowances to upgrade to a set of stage 2's or 3's??
Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think I understand what your saying (correct me if I'm wrong). You are asking "does one have to get a resleaved block when building a stroker motor?"
The answer to that would be no. The idea of a stroker motor is to leave the bore stock (0.005 or so clean up on the bore) and just make the throw on the crank more (more stroke).
The resleaved block comes in when you want to get a larger bore (ex: 383 all bore motors). The stroke stays the same (unless you are going even larger...ex: 427) and the pistons just get bigger.
You can use factory heads on a larger CI engine (stock 5.7 heads on a 383 stroker motor). The engine will just never produce near the power it could with ported/polished/valved heads.
I am going the other way around. I had my heads ported, polished, and had 2.08"/1.60" valves put in. For now, they are on a stock short block 346 (droped low end torque but high RPM is crazy). When I get the money, I will up to a supercharger for a couple pounds of boost. Then once everything else is upgraded, the final move will be to either a 383 all bore or a 427 (bore and stroke).
Chris
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
Yeah, i'd go that route too, but looks as if i'm being forced to go the rebuild route first, as my LS1 has started drinking oil pretty badly, i've pretty much narrowed it down to blow by on the rings. So while I got it apart, why not stroke it! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Thanks for the info though, your reply was very useful!!! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
#14
Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
i had asked a friend of mine the same question. he has built several motors and runs 9.50s on motor. he recommended a stroker motor if you want to do more every day driving. an all bore is made in order to have the potential of being built up by power adders
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Re: 383 stroker or allbore?
Well would an all stroke be safe to throw some FI on down the road??? <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />