Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

I was just going to get one from Futral with the rest of my supplies but they said ARP is back-ordered. Is ARP the only place I can get the longer bolt recommended for the cam swap, or is it something I could pick up at a hardware store?

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

Yellow pages.

Fasteners and bolt places. Took me a while to find one as well.

The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

man i just bought an all thread in the same size as the bolt..actually the bolt place gave it to me..i used some washers and a wheel bearing and i use that to pull my balancer on every time..NO CHANCE IN HELL TO MESS ANYTHING UP if you do it like this..just run the allthread down till it bottoms out then start pulling the balancer on with the nut..easy as pie.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

This might be a dumb question. But is the harmonic balancer bolt the same thing as the crank bolt?

Predator

Yup, it is.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I do not like to pull much on the inside threads of the crank I get two bolts with same thread as crank weld them head to head screw it tight into crank then slide a socket over then ( one that just go inside of pulley to align pulley) then use a big washer and nut on the free end of welded unit to pull pulley onto crank this way is easy on the inside threads of crank I also like to change the front seal while pulley is off

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

What he said...get one and 3 big washers and your in business..

code4

iTrader: (30)

I make all thread bolts like these. I buy a 3' piece & cut them into 6" long bolts with nut & correct size washers.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Or you could just cut the head off the stock bolt and weld another bolt with the same dimensions in between the head and threads of the original. It worked quite well for me as no one had the longer bolt I needed, and I'm not too good at waiting a couple days for a bolt to ship.

davis80

iTrader: (2)

I'm picking up a meter of M16 x 2.0 threaded rod tomorrow morning for $5. If anyone wants a 6" piece of it let me know and if you cover the shipping and $1 extra for my time I'll send it out to ya. I'm definiteliy not going to charge $25 for this cheap stuff. A meter long section of this is normally $11 but the guy is letting me have it for $5.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Where did you get the threaded stock?

code4

iTrader: (30)

I would be careful for that price the grade might not be very good. The best price I have found is $40.00 If it is grade 8.8 or better could you hook me up with this supplier? Thanks.

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

i just bought a powerbond pulley and was given a new gm crank bolt. is that ok to use? why the longer bolt? sorry to hijack

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

It's supposed to be a lot easier to swap it out if you use a longer bolt for the reinstall than the normal GM part.

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

oh ok thanks

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It's not just easier for the reinstall, you need it to get the pulley all the way off the crank. The stock bolt is not long enough to allow for enough room for the pulley to come off without hitting the head of the bolt.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

It has to be "possible", because I've got a friend that did a cam swap with a replacement GM bolt. He said it sucked to do, but he got it to work.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It's not possible to use a puller to get the pulley off the crank with the stock bolt still in the crank and threaded far in enough to not strip threads. If he took the bolt out and used some other means to get it off, or if he threaded the bolt out to about one thread and kept pulling on it (great way to easily strip the crank threads), then sure. But, the pulley simply hits the head of the stock bolt and won't let the puller pull it off due to the length of the stock bolt. It's possible to get away from using the longer bolt if you have time and patience to try out some other means that won't hurt the engine (aka not heating the pulley so much that it heats the crank, nor beating it with a hammer, etc). It is also possible to get it back on without using the longer bolt (if you feel comfortable using a block of wood and trying to bang it onto the crank without damaging it). There are possibilities, but they are all pretty much horrible ideas if you give any more than half a **** about doing things right.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

If you try and put the pulley on with the stock crank bolt and you only catch a couple of threads you can pull the threads out of the crank..beleive me this will ruin your day and them some... .. you need the longer bolt to pull the pulley on to the crank without doing any damage to the crank...then you put your old crank bolt on and tighten it down till your eyeballs bug out of your head......then you take that old crank bolt out and use the new crank bolt to torque to specs..or as GM says torque to yield...then you drink a cold beer.. ..cause you'll be sweating and huffing and puffing..

Tech

iTrader: (1)

For removal... why not just use an impact socket after the stock bolt runs out of threads?