ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I know a lot of you are running some sick heads (and are valvetrain junkies), so I was just wondering what valve setups you all are using... Ti, aluminum, swirl polished, etc etc. I'm trying to get an idea for future upgrades for piecing together some badass heads for my 408 setup.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I'll be running the standard valves that come with ET Performance heads in a couple weeks. The heads are on their way now, then give another w/e before install of new engine is complete. I thought about the Ti valves, but the price was not in my budget as of now.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I'm not just limiting my choices to Ti valves, I'm also curious about Na-filled valves like the intakes in the LS6 heads. They worth the money? Any other valves, valvetrain parts, or valve/valvetrain tricks that you don't have to sell your firstborn for but provide good performance gains (and possibly better/more stable valvetrain harmonics)?

dame

iTrader: (3)

I have some ET 240's on the way with Ti valves....(although I dont know what company makes them )

SLP 02 SS

AFR 225s with the 2.05/1.60 Valves
Haven't run the setup yet.
Currently in the Installation Phase

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

And what are those valves made of? What's been done to them?

Demon SS

iTrader: (3)

what are your goals for the car? if it is a street car I would stick with a good stainless valve(REV, Manley Ferrea), Ti is not considered a long life material(it heat cycles and get brittle) and would get expensive fast in a street car application.
Inconel is used in some high end boost applications but again is considered more a race only application.

SLP 02 SS

Manley S.S. Valves

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

Manley Race masters in the All Pro's but had to change valves and guides to get the lock and retainer package to work prob running a ferrea or Manley Valve If I had it to do all over I'd opt for Excledyne valves to match the retainers and locks...

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

What about the Manley Race Flo's from TR?

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Race Flos are just undercut valve stems, almost every manufacturer has them.

NaK valves are sodium filled hollow valves, used in exhaust applications mainly nto intakes. Sodium help pull the heat out of the valve

Titanium not something Id be considering for a street driven setup.
Aluminum valves wouldnt go over very well.
A good stainless steel valve is what 99% of guys will run, money is better spent elsewhere then unobtanium kryptonite filled valve on street cars

A good aftermarket casting that is fully assembled to meet your needs is the way to go. Kinda like the ETPs on the shelf here Jon SHoudl I pull the stock heads off now?

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Whatever helps me get the damn thing running I told you I'd be the guinea pig for your shop though. Come on, my car has spent more time at your shop than you have. You owe it to the car

Spinmonster

I own a forged motor because of a hollow stem breaking into two pieces at the weld (GM) and the motor ate it breaking a piston; metal everywhere, cracked liners, destroyed one head beyond repair, and no oil pressure. Get a stainless steel 1 piece for safety. It isnt worth the weight difference. I rev to 7k with my set-up....just get the right spring set-up and lifters to handle the pressure. Manly race flow.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Manual or automatic?

Spinmonster

manual

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Check out Ferrea valves. They have titanium, hollow stem, sodium filled, super alloy, many kinds of stainless valves, etc... They can custom make you any valve you need.

For LS7 heads, since the intake valve is so big (2.200), saving weight is a must for a reliable high RPM range. Something like a titanium valve or hollow stem is preferable. Or some beefy springs with a solid SS valve.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

I am running Xceldyne Titanium Valves in my ET 265CC Heads, havent ran them yet motors not done , but they sure look sweet. I went as light as I could on the valvetrain because I am planning 8500 rpm shiftpoint