obZidian

iTrader: (2)

Basically, tomorrow i will be removing a stock rocker bolt i broke off in the head. When i was changing a broken valve spring, cylinder #2, exhaust spring. I was using the crow bar type and i read that these are "notorious" for breakinf off bolts in the heads..

So, i was like Yeah, Yeah, Yeah.... i'll take my time and e as careful as i usually am.

WEll, wrong!!! they suck!!! that bolt snaped like a twig.

So, tomorrow i'll be drilling, with a vac handy to pickup any unnecesary debree and rags al over the place, a small hole into the bolt so i can remove it using a bolt extractor tool. My question is simple, i was looking through the other bolt hole and saw a small cavity. If i drill into the bolt, and let say go through though i shouldn't, will i get any shavings into the cylinder? Also, how far do ya'll recommend?

I have a set of lq9, 6.0L heads, casting number (I believe) 317.

Any suggestions...i really dont want to remove the heads, just installed a new 90mm setup and i would hate to take it apart again....

Personally, i believe it should be ok. The bolt lines up with the exhaust port anyways so if any shavings do happen to get down, it would be blown out through the exhaust... am i right on this? Or i shouldn't have to worry about this...just not get any into the pushrod hole or any other ports?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

This again makes the case for those who don't know how to properly use the pivoting spring compressor type tool to instead use the type that only clamps directly to both sides of the spring. Those bolt hose don't go all the way through unless you have your heads CNCed and then if I remember correctly it's only the intake that get exposed. If you have someone holding the vac nozzle while your drilling that should limit the errant shaving quite a bit. don't drill any further than you need to get sufficient purchase on the fastener for removal. You can drill all the way to China as they say, but won't be of any help. Drill a little and check with the screw extractor for a good bite and repeat if necessary until your satisfied that the extractor is lodged inside of the bolt. There is no locktite on the bolt threads, but only on the washer/head of the bolt. Once you break the GM factory locktite to remove those bolts you can unscrew them with your fingers assuming you didn't damage the threads too. It shouldn't be very hard to get that bolt out once the extractor is in place. I'm guessing the bolt broke off below the upper deck surface of the head. How do you plan to keep the drill bit centered when drilling the hole for the extractor. I'd use a sleeve inserted into the bolt hole to help center the drill bit. If the area where the drill bit initially tries to bite into the bolt is an irregular surface which it probably is since this bolt is broken off your going to have some trouble getting the drill to start smoothly. That's why you need the sleeve. The OD of the sleeve should be the same as the bolt OD so the sleeve fits snugly into the hole where the broken portion of the bolt now resides and the drill bit should be the size of the ID of the hole in the sleeve. You do have a old coffee can full of assorted sleeves sitting there up on the shelf in the garage right?

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

Right!!!

So, i go ahead a drill the hole, as in the middle as possible. I used a guide to help me out wih this. Oh, i had my dad help me out with this so i had anoher set of hands hanging around.

I got enough into the bolt to use the extractor tool, almost a bit further than half way down the bolt.

We started to apply tool. We took our time and the bolt wouldn't budge. We drilled a bit more and tried the tool again. WE actually at this time went to a larger tool size to get more torque on there.

So, as we started to apply the tool, its tip broke of into the bolt!!! there really isn't a piece that i can grab onto and pull the tip out. Also, we tried drilling into that bad boy with what we have and no luck, the tool is a hardened steel and it just simply denied the bit.

So, what options do i have right now? I figure that we need ot find a bit that will go thorugh that piece, and drill that suck out, re tap the head (its aluminum, can it be tapped?) or try to remove it with a larger extractor tool?

Will a machine shop have the proper tools and machines to get this job done?

My dad is being kinda cool about this, he knows how much i have spent on this car and he has been through this crap before...funny how history repeats itself... he offered, since he doesn't see a real solution, to order me a new set of heads. That would be alright but im not 100% ok with it. Its alot of cashola, though he is more than good for it, i just dont want to burden anyone wiht my car "problems".

So, "weird-up homies".... what do ya'll think...

I feel almost like lithium in this...car is down and it looks gloomy!!

Angel

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Damn!! You spend the money on parts and then skimped on your tool. Crane dual spring tool is the best valve spring tool on the planet. Dont get me started on the homeade version for wya to much money.
ANYWAY, at this point if I were you I would take the head off and bring it somewhere. You haven't created a huge problem yet but your close. Taking the head off is easy. Leave what ever springs are on there alone and take the head off and bring it to a machine shop. Call around first.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

i have used that tool before so its not that bad really. The only thing was that i thought my bolts were grade 8 but they are stock rocker bolts. Everytime i use this tool it worked out great with the grade 8 bolt, but oh well, we are moving on. I did get the new spring on there with another tool i had, its like a claw with a big bolt down the middle. ITs cool becuz you can compress the spring in your hand, place it over the spring and just drop the keepers in.

ITs just amazing how crazy it is that i broke the freaking extractor tool in the bolt i broken off.

Im calling around and i'll be getting her over to the most competent shop around. It will cost me, but not as much as a new head. Its a race prepped head and it could be duplicated. Its though i would love to get a set of banging c5r heads on there, i like the package the way it is and its alot of cashola for that swap....need that money for the other mods i wanta do to my V.

vodas00ss

iTrader: (14)

sooo...you have a car with a 408 stroker, and also a 05 ctsv, and your daddy is offering to buy you a new set of heads?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

This had gone from bad to worse. You must have damaged the threads or bent the remaining portion of the bolt slightly when you broke it for the part that is left in there to snap your screw extractor tip off. You must have been using a #1 or #2 extactor to be usable to break the tip off. When using those small size extractors you must tread lightly. They are hard, but brittle and can't handle excessive twisting force. The reason I'm guessing the bolt or threads are damaged is because they are only torqued to 22 lb/ft and once the locktite cracks you can just about unscrew them by hand. Some people have the ability to use the pivoting type spring compressor tool, but I just don't like the idea of using the rocker mounting threads as a fulcrum to pivot a tool that has to compress a spring that far for that long especially if they are aftermarket springs. For those who don't have that ability the tool that clamps directly onto the spring itself is a much better choice.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

I was using the #3 extractor and the bolt didnt have a trq. on it or locktite. I just bolted it done dry just to get the spring compressed. I'm with ya on hte tool, the amount of forece you are appling on that bolt is not that bad, however, you are applying it at an angle which will fatigue the bolt. THe final one i used is like a clamp and it work great, that is my tool of choice rom noe on.

Tell me about it!!! Its been rough but it's almst done....

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

your point?

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

Once you snap the E-Z out it's about time to pull the head and take it in for
extraction.
Hawk

vodas00ss

iTrader: (14)

just looks like you could afford your own heads, but anyway if you cant get it out with the heads on the car, there are some shops with a laser. they can laser that bolt out, when you get it back you wont even be able to tell it was broken off in there. I send stuff out all the time from my work to have that done.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

gotcha.. just didn;t know where you were getting at.... sounded a bit offensive brotha and i really dont care for any stuff like that. My apologies!! My "daddy" was just be generous, he nows how much i love my ride and stressing this can be, he went through all of this before and i guess just felt for his son. I don't know, i told him dont worry about it but he's too much sometimes. (He is the reason i even have this love for rides. He rallied, autocross, mud/canyon raced on cars and bikes, and had a gorgeous 1968 350 camaro..) Just keeping that tradition with my 1998 camaro, but its got a bit more than his old won!! buahahha!!

Laser? Would you happen to know the machine name or how i may ask for this service? I just installed a few nice parts, included a 90mm fast, and i would hate to take it off again. But i must. I will remove the parts and have the heads sent to a place. Know of any?

thanks!!

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

yeah.... just when i get it all buttoned up!!